First Dates Ireland: All’s well until a body slam of a put-down is delivered at dinner

First Dates Ireland (RTÉ2, Thursday, 9.35pm) had its first wedding last year – proof that in a world gone mad, there is still room for the ancient ritual of meeting your romantic partner on a TV matchmaking show.

The series returns as affable as ever, its straightforward people-watching formula unchanged. Low-key and upbeat, it’s RTÉ at its best: nothing that unfolds on screen will change your life, but goodness, it passes the time.

To their credit, the producers aren’t afraid to sprinkle a little spice in – though not to the point of becoming exploitative. The season opener features Louth barista Hansun (drag queen Pluto by night) with Dubliner Ciarán, whose idea of heaven on earth is a can of beer in the shower.

They seemed destined not to gel, and so it proves. Hansun has fun ordering a flirtatiously named cocktail; Ciarán is delighted to be offered Heineken.

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Then, at dinner, Ciarán delivers a body slam for the ages when conversation turns to Hansun’s alter-ego, Pluto. He explains that Pluto is “not a planet any more – you’ve been downgraded babes”. Oof – poor Hansun doesn’t know where to look. You can see the stars go out one by one.

There’s similarly a whiff of paprika as we are introduced to James and Stephen – buddies who always have one another’s back. The question is ... who is the wingman, who the ace? That imponderable acquires an edge as they are introduced to Jade and Siobhán, and it isn’t immediately clear who they’d like to be paired with.

Still, everything works out in the end, as Stephen and Jade hit it off, and James and Siobhán appear to get along, too. Oh, and there’s a twist as it turns out the real chemistry is between Jade and Siobhán, who become best pals. The third storyline is provided by Kerry farmer Tom and Dutch-born, Killarney-based Elly, who rushes to the loo to phone a friend. “I can’t believe you went all the way to Dublin and you met someone from Killorglin,” gasps her confidant.

First Dates in the UK has catapulted maître d’ Fred Sirieix to a mainstream media career – he was even seen barking about Brexit with Nigel Farage on the latest season of I’m A Celebrity ... Get Me Out Of Here! The Irish version seems less obsessed about making a star of its front-of-house smoothie, Mateo Saina. It’s more laid-back – a vibe that suits both its Thursday night transmission (this late in the week, who has time for drama?) and the self-conscious avuncularity with which Irish people often approach dating. It isn’t a show you’d necessarily want to continue seeing for the rest of your life – but as a 60-minute pre-weekend fling, it works just fine.