Meal Ticket: DeSelby’s, Camden St, Dublin 2

I get settled into DeSelby’s on a Tuesday morning. The Gorillaz’s Plastic Beach is on the stereo, a welcome distraction from my daily deadlines. Armed with the WiFi code and a superbly made flat white served in an appropriately sized cup, I wait it out until lunchtime, resisting the temptation to tuck in to one of the Arun Bakery’s luscious cinnamon buns on offer. The coffee is by Dublin roasters Roasted Brown and the tea is by Wall & Keogh just up the road on South Richmond Street.

Opened in October 2015 by brothers Peter and Conor Sweeney, DeSelby’s has settled in well to Camden St. The art deco lettering on the sign above its door is reflected in beautiful stained windows looking out onto the street. Inside, it makes a virtue of the high ceilings of the original building that dates back to 1840.

Their regular lunch menu, designed by head chef Sam Carey, includes a pan-fried fish sandwich on sourdough (€8), a Toulouse sausage sandwich on brioche (€9) and a seared tuna flatbread with avocado and chipotle (€8.50). Four or five specials change daily, depending on what’s good in the kitchen pantry. Today, I can’t resist the Crem Brie-lee (€9) with red-onion jam and toast.

“It’s basically a bowl of melted cheese mixed with cream,” says the friendly fellow behind the counter, who turns out to be Conor Sweeney. “Sold!” I reply.

It arrives a little runnier than I would have liked, but it seeps happily into the toasted sourdough and the red-onion jam is excellent. The soup today is a very green pea and broccoli soup thickened with generous hunks of ham hock (€6). From the regular lunch menu, I sample the toasted Manchego cheese and ham hock sandwich (€8.50), a toasty elevated to new heights of yumminess.

DeSelby’s, which is also doing a roaring trade at dinnertime, posted a photo on its Facebook page recently of a peanut butter and jelly French Toast dish, served as part of its weekend brunch menu. Yes, please. DeSelby’s wine and beer licence means you can make it a squiffy lunch if the occasion calls for it. This is a really welcome addition to the neighbourhood. I’ll be back for that PBJ French Toast.