Mezze does it

IT CAN BE slightly confusing, first time around. The Cedar Tree (opposite The Trocadero in Dublin), seems to have two names, to be two-restaurants-in- one: Once you get inside, it’s called Byblos. Whatever you decide to call it, the kitchen serves up a hearty mix of mezze, which is a particularly social way to eat, especially with a group, so we rolled up one recent Friday night, and found it full of young couples in the throes of early romance, as well as singles in merry, post-work mode.

Friends had recommended the basement as the place to be, so we requested a subterranean table. Below stairs was packed like sardines, and we were ushered into a broom closet-sized space at the back. It smelled um . . . basementy, and as we relaxed into it, a cold wind blowing through a hole in the wall was strong enough to sweep my hair into an odd, 1950s-style bouffant. Not a look I’d been aiming for, it has to be said.

We decided to have a light supper, and ordered the vegetarian option for two from the mezze menu (€19.50). A grand selection of Eastern Mediterranean favourites arrived: baba ghanoush, tabouleh, falafel, hummus, warm pitta bread, shanklish, garlic mushrooms, muhammara, wild cucumber, and fatayer.

The wild cucumber, pickled in vinegar and salt, was pucker-inducing; the falafel, kind of dry. The stars were the muhammara, a dip made from blitzed roasted red pepper and walnuts; the velvety baba ghanoush – I’m guessing the aubergine was gently smoked over an open flame before being peeled and pureed; the smoky taste enhanced it – and the shanklish, a Lebanese feta-esque cheese, served with chopped tomatoes and onion.

Overall, it was an array of big, brash flavours that might have been better enjoyed outdoors under a Levantine sun in June, rather than a Dublin basement in March, but geography and climate aside, we enjoyed these dishes. Sharing platters in this way definitely cranks up the banter – it’s a jolly way to eat among friends.

But the main course was welcome, too. Maghmour is a dish of roasted aubergine and chickpeas in an onion and tomato sauce, served with rice – a substantial, hot, comforting dish. It is a classic peasant Lebanese dish, without pretence.

To warm up, we got stuck into the remainder of our Château Musar 2007, and it served as our dessert as well. Be sure to try this wine sometime, if you haven’t already. The list also boasts some other Lebanese wines, as well as a smattering of old world favourites.

Baltic basement aside, we liked Byblos/ The Cedar Tree for what it is, a step off the beaten bistro track and an opportunity to try an unusual cuisine in friendly surroundings. Better to sit upstairs, however. Meat options are there in abundance, too – our vegetarian dinner for two, with wine at €55, came to €94.

The Cedar Tree/Byblos, 11 Saint Andrew’s Street, Dublin 2. tel: 01-6791517