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SUMMER FOOD SPECIAL EOIN HIGGINSrecommends a handful of Ireland's best spots for summer dining

Moran’s Oyster Cottage

The Weir, Kilcolgan, Co Galway, tel: 091-796113

In a land where so many Irish pubs are assembled from kits fabricated in eastern Europe, it makes a nice change to experience the real deal. Moran’s has been a family business for more than 250 years, and has specialised in oysters and seafood since the 1960s. The furnishings are basic and the menu is similarly straightforward – seafood all the way, bar the vegetable soup and a slightly incongruous baked-ham salad. Service is friendly and knowledgeable. Michael, a seventh-generation Moran, explains that the native Edulis oysters are now out of season, replaced during the summer months by the Gigas variety. I order mine grilled with garlic, while my partner insists on having hers au naturel. Both are priced at €25 per dozen. Typically, execution is faultless, as is the huge pavlova, which is worth sharing. Maybe that stuff about oysters being an aphrodisiac is all true . . . we’ve fallen in love with this place.

Eden

Meeting House Square, Temple Bar, Dublin 2, tel: 01-6705372

It’s hard to believe that Eden is almost 15 years old. When Jay Bourke and Eoin Foyle set up the restaurant way back when, it was a very different time, and Temple Bar was a slightly different place – not as much the hen and stag stomping ground as it is today. But Eden remains above all of that, especially when the sun shines. The 30-seater terrace is a beguiling place to while away an afternoon. early on a Saturday, bag a good seat and relax while watching moms and pops do the Temple Bar Saturday market. People-watching is seldom as lush. The terrace is covered and heated, should the weather disappoint. Eden offers two courses for €18 or three for €23, Monday to Saturday 12.30pm to 3pm, and Sundays till 4pm. Try the Eden Smokies: smoked haddock with spring onion, cherry tomatoes, crème fraiche, and melted cheddar cheese, to start. Follow with the catch of the day, which is usually creatively executed.

An Bonnán Buí

Pier Road, Rathmullan, Co Donegal,

tel: 074-9158453

Since 1993, Martin Kelly and his Brazilian wife, Monica, have run An Bonnán Buí, in the seaside village of Rathmullan. Their mission is to offer out-of-the-ordinary food, in a friendly atmosphere, at keen prices. Menus are prepared daily, using fresh, local produce, resulting in honest fare that suits most people – vegetarians, vegans, and coeliacs are well catered for. The signature dish is moqueca de frutos do mar, a lightly-spiced Brazilian seafood stew with a rich tomato and coriander base. The two-course table d'hote for €23 is good value. The restaurant's cooks, one of whom has worked in the famous San Sebastian three-star Arzak, are from Spain and Brazil. Don't forget to try the "very good chocolate cake", of which the owners are very proud.

Chez Max

133 Baggot Street, Dublin 2,

tel: 01-6618899

Since opening two years ago, Chez Max on Baggot Street has built on the quiet success of its rather cramped forebear beside Dublin Castle. While sticking to the unpretentious bistro formula of the original, the newer sibling is slightly more chi-chi, and offers a garden and a roof terrace for fans of the al fresco experience. Recommended signature dishes include moules frites (€15.50) and boeuf bourgignon (€15.50); onion soup, frogs’ legs and snails are also available. This place is French, with a capital shrug. They even have live accordion music on some occasions, although this doesn’t seem to put off its regular clientele of Francophiles, politicians and Andrea Corr. Prices are modest, cheap even, with the lunchtime plat du jour costing less than a tenner, and most dinner main courses priced around €15. As Dublin 2 restaurants go, Chez Max is something of a bargain. Bravo.

Ely Bar Brasserie

Custom House Quay, IFSC, Dublin 1,

tel: 01-6720010

Located in the CHQ building in the IFSC, this slick brasserie attracts a mixed crowd of weary bankers, ladies of leisure, and random passers-by. We love it for the light; when the sun hits at the right angle, there are few dining rooms in the capital that are more flattering to the countenance. Part of the Ely group, the brasserie is not bad at what it puts on plates either. Tyrone chef Ryan Stringer has been with Ely for the past four years and his seared king scallops starter with black pudding and cauliflower purée (€12.95) is a taste sensation. We also love the organic Burren rack of lamb with curried lamb kidneys and aubergine (€24.95). It is especially popular during the Docklands Maritime Festival (June bank holiday), and children are well catered for. Key to Ely Brasserie’s summer attraction is its waterside terrace. Diners who book online are entitled to a free drink of their choice on arrival.

The Terrace, Gordon Ramsay at Powerscourt

Powerscourt Estate, Enniskerry, Co Wicklow, tel: 01-2748888

The Ritz Carlton offers five-star luxury in the wild Wicklow mountains, and lunch on the Terrace (€35 for two courses, €45 for three) is the ideal opportunity to enjoy the best of both worlds. Although Ramsay is rarely to be found on the premises, the restaurant features his trademark lobster and salmon ravioli, and genuine attempts to feature the best of Irish produce. Patriotic foodies can savour a special Taste of Ireland dinner menu (available Sunday to Friday), which is excellent value at €55. Lunch is only served at weekends, and the menu is small yet it can be hard to make a decision, given the uniform excellence of what is on offer. The braised pork belly gets my vote. With linen, cutlery, delph and glassware of a similarly stellar standard, a visit to the Terrace is truly a trip back to the heady pre-crunch days of 2007.

The Panorama

The Europe Hotel Resort, Fossa, Killarney, Co Kerry, tel: 064-6671300

Run by the Liebherr family, whose nearby factory produces some of the largest container cranes in the world – now there’s a random fact – the Europe originally opened in 1961. A lot has changed since then. A €70 million upgrade in 2008 has resulted in one of the most architecturally pleasing hotels in the country. With its stunning views, and outdoor terraces, the Europe is a most sought-after destination for summer dining in the Kingdom. The terraces are unrivalled for aspect as well as comfort. Chef Alex Nahke creates dishes in the contemporary Irish mould with a quirky twist. Try the grilled grey mullet with pine kernels and sautéed spinach (€18) for a taste of that. The Sunday brunch is particularly popular, attracting locals and residents who like to linger long into the afternoon.

Cake Café

62 Pleasants Place, Dublin 2,

tel: 01-4789394

Owner Michelle Darmody describes the decor here as “shabby-chic”, and it does have a higgledy-piggledy charm. Cake Café has become a cult destination for urban dwellers looking for a spot of home-made charm. Outside, on fair days, it is hard to beat for a relaxing meal with friends. The signature dish is the famous Cake Café beans on toast (€6.70); customers also rave about the Portuguese sardines on buttery toast (€6.20). We agree, it is excellent comfort food. Try a glass of their organic, or bio-dynamic, wine too. Cake Café, unsurprisingly, also specialises in home-baked cakes, pastries and desserts. The clientele is usually an informal bunch. Expect a little bit of a wait for a table at peak times, especially at weekends when this spot is rammed with the horribly hungover and the highly healthy; somehow that combination works.

Out of the Blue

Waterside, Dingle, Co Kerry,

tel: 066-9150811

Kevin Thornton’s favourite restaurant, Out of the Blue, also counts Gay Byrne as a fan. Run by the amiable Tim Mason, Out of the Blue is primarily a restaurant for lovers of simply prepared, face-slappingly fresh, Irish seafood. The restaurant is hard to miss, brightly painted as it is, on the Dingle seafront. The menu changes daily, depending on the catch, which is a guarantee of fresh fare, yet one can usually find the sterling turbot beurre blanc with shallot confit (€32.50), which is worth the trip alone. From 5pm to 7pm on weekdays, a Fish Deal menu is offered with two courses for €24.50 and three for €29.50, with a glass of decent house wine for €5. The wine list is a thing of passion, having been curated by Tim’s brother, wine buff Ben Mason of Wicklow Wine Shop. In summer, when the weather is fine, take a seat on the outdoor decking area and enjoy the sights and sounds of the harbour, while tucking into splendid seafood – a fantastic way to spend any afternoon.

Toddies @ The Bulman

Summercove, Kinsale, Co Cork,

tel: 021-4772131

Toddies was already well-known when proprietor Pearse O’Sullivan upped sticks to the famous Bulman pub in nearby Summercove. The move created synergy and economies of scale. The pub has always been busy, and can now offer lunch and all-day bar food prepared in Toddies’ kitchens. The restaurant proper is open for dinner only, and its situation on the first floor affords glorious views of the harbour. O’Sullivan, who trained at various Michelin-starred establishments, provides a largely seafood-based menu with the emphasis on freshness and seasonality. Lettuce and asparagus, for example, come from suppliers only a few miles up the road, and everything from the mayonnaise to desserts is made in-house. The superb signature dish of lobster risotto, available as starter or main (€14.50/€29.50), is highly recommended, as is finishing the night with a few pints and some ceoil agus craic in the folk club downstairs.

Unicorn

12b Merrion Court, Dublin 2,

tel: 01-6624757

The terrace at the Unicorn has been an institution since the cub days of the tiger. Friday and Saturday afternoons are most popular, when glasses of crisp Italian whites clink and the great, the good and the sun-worshipping congregate to see, be seen and table hop like dining room marsupials. The mix of traditional and contemporary Italian dishes, served by friendly staff, is typically well-executed, and Casari is a much-loved host who does almost as much hopping as his patrons. Currently, Unicorn’s €19.50 set lunch option is the best for value hunters. Alternatively, the famous Unicorn antipasto bar (Thursday, Friday, and Saturday only) is typically brimming with daily specials. Starters are €8.50, and mains run to €16.50. I love the Unicorn salad of baby spinach leaves, roast pumpkin, toasted pine nuts, and grilled goats’ cheese (€16.50). Unicorn is open for lunch Monday to Saturday from 12.30pm until 4.30pm, or a little longer if you are particularly fab. Some complain about the closeness of the tables, but I think that adds to the overall bonhomie, and on a good day there is no better place to dine than on its terrace.

Bloom’s Lane, Dublin 1

Enoteca delle Langhe, Café Cagliostro, Koh, La Taverna di Bacco and Boojum

Rather than a single restaurant, here I am recommending an entire street – well, a lane – for al fresco dining. Bloom's Lane on Dublin's northside is the creation of philanthropic developer – they weren't all bad – Mick Wallace. The Italianate alley becomes a pleasing runway for the more aesthetically endowed of our population in summer; this area attracts more foreign hotties than you can shake a grissini at. We especially love the creative crostini (€6.50) at Enoteca delle Langhi, and the bucatini con ragù alla Bolognese(€14.50) at La Taverna Di Bacco. Also in the vicinity, if you tire of Italian, try Thai at Koh, or the all-new fresh and healthy Mexican joint, Boojum. This area is usually quite busy for sunny lunches, with local office folk tucking into well-made dishes. There are lots of mums and kids too, as most restaurants are child friendly. Wine-by-the-glass opportunities along Bloom's Lane are also a big draw for liquid lunchers.

Tankardstown House

Slane, Co Meath, tel: 041-9824621

With cascading fountains, rolling lawns, neat box hedges and a quaint garden shop, Tankardstown, less than an hour’s drive from the capital, is idyllic for jaded Dubs and loyal locals. There are two dining options, the Bistro and Brabazon Restaurant, both set in the landscaped garden village at the back of the main house, with lots of comfy outdoor seating. The Bistro is a particular favourite. Start with a creamy chowder of smoked haddock, potatoes, peas, fennel and herbs (€7), follow with crayfish linguini with chorizo cream (€14.95), and accompany your meal with a glass of something white, chilled, and dry. Afterwards, take a stroll through the pretty walled garden, where melodic music drifts from speakers built into mature trees. We’re not sure how we feel about that, but we love this place just the same.

The Cliff House Hotel

Ardmore, Co Waterford, tel: 024-87800

It’s all about the view here. And the food. And the architecture. And the service. And the comfort. What to say about The Cliff House Hotel that hasn’t already been said? As an overall package, it is in a league of its own, one of the great success stories of the decade. If you haven’t already visited, do so, you owe it to yourself. When the southeast is sunny, there are few places more joyous than being seated comfortably on the Cliff House’s coastal terrace. Surprisingly, one doesn’t necessarily have to spend big to enjoy the excellent cooking here. The bar menu is worth the day trip. To start, try Jack McCarthy’s spiced beef with cheddar and toasted hazelnuts (€9.75), followed by monkfish tail with garlic, parsley and lemon (€25), two simple, yet highly accomplished dishes. Sit back, take in the view, and think strongly about spending the night.

O’Grady’s on the Pier

Sea Point, Barna, Co Galway,

tel: 091-592223

O’Grady’s is situated on the shores of Galway Bay, by the Pier in Barna village, and offers a very relaxed location in which to enjoy fresh, locally-sourced and well prepared seafood and meat dishes. The food is excellent. Try the steamed fresh Galway mussels with white wine, garlic and flat leaf parsley cream (€16.95), an old-time classic but brought out of the ordinary with top-notch ingredients and a savvy execution. To start, the seafood chowder (€6.50) also comes highly recommended. Service is professional yet warm, staff skilfully skating the line between attentive and overbearing. O’Grady’s on the Pier was named best seafood restaurant in Ireland in 2008 by Georgina Campbell, and continues to win awards for its inventive, well-constructed take on fresh Irish marine fare. Book well in advance in the summer months as this place gets quite hectic at the merest suggestion of sun.

Inis Meáin Restaurant and Suites

Inis Meáin, Aran Islands, Co Galway,

tel: 086-8266026

Off the coast of Galway, Ruairí and Marie-Thérèse de Blacam have created Ireland’s ultimate destination restaurant on Inis Meáin, the middle of the three Aran Islands. Obviously, you’ll need to catch a plane or ferry to get there, but it’s worth the trip. Hyper-modern, limestone-clad and pleasingly-horizontal, the building features a curved window giving diners a great view of the bay, and also houses four guest suites of the minimal chic variety (€125pps per night). The restaurant maintains an exemplary food policy, with a constantly-changing menu based on seasonality. All produce comes from the surrounding areas, with lobster and crab caught by fishermen in currachs, and seaweed the only fertiliser used on a stunning range of vegetables. Local free-range chickens are so strong and healthy that a confit can be made from their legs – one of the menu’s highlights (€20). Start planning your journey.

ehiggins@irishtimes.com