A Unesco World Heritage Site with a rich history and opulent architecture, Malta's capital simply takes your breath away, writes ADRIENNE CULLEN
CITIES CAN BE fascinating, charming, even alluring, but it’s rare that a city takes your breath away, transports you to the extent that you’re quite happy to forget about the outside world: Venice is certainly one and the Maltese capital, Valletta, is another.
Which makes it interesting to find that the two are not at all unrelated: at the height of Venice’s power as a city state in the 16th century, Venetian traders plied a regular route down the Adriatic coast, with a hop to Sicily, a skip to Valletta and back again.
So there was considerable mutual influence. Both were thriving commercial centres, both owed that commercial success to their long seafaring traditions, and both built opulent and architecturally awe-inspiring, though tiny, city centres to display that affluence.
Or perhaps the allure of Valletta has something to do with the mysterious letter V. Back in the 1960s, reclusive American author Thomas Pynchon called his often-inaccessible debut novel V., and set several chapters in Valletta, where he spent long sojourns plotting the exploits of his ex-navy hero, Benny Profane.
One way or another, Valletta has had an extraordinary magnetism for writers. Lord Byron narrowly escaped a duel over a certain married lady when he visited in 1809. In 1831, Sir Walter Scott described it as "this splendid town quite like a dream". Anthony Burgess moved there in 1968 and opens his masterful novel, Earthly Powers, there.
And it’s not just writers. Benjamin Disraeli visited in 1830 and described it as “a city of palaces, built by gentlemen for gentlemen”.
He said: “Valletta equals in its noble architecture, if it does not excel, any capital in Europe”, adding, interestingly, that it was “comparable to Venice and Cadiz”.
And although not many people know it, you'll have seen it in the movies too in recent years: large sections of Steven Spielberg's Oscar-nominated film Munichwere shot in Valletta, which doubled for locations as diverse as Beirut, Tel Aviv, Athens and Rome.
Again, like Venice, Valletta is physically striking. It’s a peninsula, less than 2kms end-to-end. It’s steep in places but, even so, the best way to see it is on foot because the traffic is chaotic and there’s a congestion charge to drive into the centre. It was one of the earliest UNESCO World Heritage sites, and it’s known locally as il-Belt, the city.
The good news is that much of what you’ll want to see is located on or near the main thoroughfare, Republic Street, and doesn’t involve any hills.
If you’re a dedicated follower of fashion, Republic Street is where to shop. One of the city’s best-known landmarks is the imposing National Library on Republic Square, around which you’ll find a buzzing stretch of alfresco eateries, including my personal favourite, Caffe Cordina, known far and wide for its coffee and pastries.
With that in mind for elevenses, you'll want to visit St John's Co-Cathedral, just off Republic Street, for its brightly-coloured marble tombstones of the Knights of St John, and to see Caravaggio's St Jerome III, and one of his masterpieces, The Beheading of St John The Baptist.
The cathedral also has a fantastic view of the Grand Harbour, often described – by the locals at least – as the most beautiful view in the Mediterranean, though for my money the Upper Barrakka Gardens, near Castille Palace, provide a panorama that’s every bit as stunning.
Conveniently, the Palace of the Grandmasters in also on Republic Street. Built in 1574 as the seat of the Grand Master of the Knights of Malta, it’s a treasure trove of paintings, tapestries and friezes and now houses the Maltese parliament and the office of the president.
Because Valletta is so small, visitors often stay in Sliema or St Julian’s, Malta’s main coastal resort, just five minutes across the harbour by ferry, where you’ll find the most modern hotels and the liveliest nightlife.
It’s convenient and family-friendly, but it’s not the same – because Valletta is unique, a world of its own.
5 places to stay
Grand Hotel Excelsior.Great Siege Road, Floriana, 00-356-2125 0520, excelsior.com.mt. A five-star located just outside the gates of Valletta's magnificent 16th century bastions with views over the old city and the harbour. Nightly rates for a standard twin or double with inland views start at about €110, rising to about €260 for an executive room facing the sea.
Phoenicia Hotel.The Mall Floriana, 00-356-2122 5241, phoeniciamalta.com. For art deco fans, this five-star hotel set on seven acres of gardens in the heart of the city is an architectural gem. It was also a favourite haunt of the then Princess Elizabeth and Prince Philip in the 1940s when the prince was stationed on the island. Classic twins and doubles, with breakfast start at about €120, rising to about €180 for a deluxe room with a harbour view.
Castille Hotel.Castille Square, 00-356-2122 0173, hotelcastillemalta.com. Originally a palace built in the 16th century, this three-star has imposing views over the harbour, the bastions and the Maltese stock exchange. Rooms, all with period furniture, range from about €50 for a courtyard twin to about €130 for a room with balcony. Buffet breakfast is included.
Hotel Osborne.50 South Street, 00-356-2123 2127/8, osbornehotel.com. Housed in one of the palaces built by the Knights of the Order of St John. Newly refurbished, doubles and twins start at around €90 with a full English breakfast.
British Hotel.40 Battery Street, 00-353-2122 4730, britishhotel.com. What this family-run two-star lacks in sophistication it makes up for in history. It's one of the city's longest-established hotels and most rooms have views over the Grand Harbour. Doubles start at around €60 but be prepared to pay more for a sea view.
5 places to eat
Malata.Palace Square, 00-356-2123 3967, malatamalta.com. Serves French and Mediterranean cuisine on a large, shaded terrace in summer and in a 500-year-old vaulted cellar in winter. Prices are above Maltese averages, but cheaper than we're used to back home for this level of cuisine.
Rubino.53 Old Bakery Street, 00-356-2122 4656, rubinomalta.com. Set up originally as a patisserie in the heart of Valletta over 100 years ago, Rubino still serves confectionery and sweets every Sunday morning. The rest of the week, it offers reasonably priced Italian and traditional Maltese dishes.
Twotwentytwo.222 Great Siege Road, 00-356-2733 3222, two-twentytwo.com. While it's in the heart of traditional Valletta, this contemporary space is the epitome of cutting-edge chic and sophistication. It sees itself as a unique venue for culture, design, art, literature and technology – but luckily, they serve good food too!
Giannini.23 Windmill Street, 00-356-2123 7121. Haute Maltese-Italian cuisine above St Michael's bastions with breathtaking views from the balcony at sunset. It's popular and reasonably priced, so booking is a must.
De Robertis.St Paul's Street, 00-356-2124 3677, hotelcastillemalta.com. Part of the Castille Hotel, De Robertis is one of the longest-established restaurants in Valletta. Enjoy Mediterranean, French and Maltese fine dining on the hotel's open-air terrace high above the town and the splendid harbour.
5 places to go
St John's Co-Cathedral.St John's St, 00-356-2122 0536, stjohnscocathedral.com. A simple exterior belies a dramatic and ornate interior. There are two paintings by Caravaggio, but the big draw is his masterpiece, The Beheading of St John The Baptist. Watch out for the brightly coloured tombstones of the Knights of St John.
Palace of the Grandmasters.Republic St, 00-356-2122 1221, president.gov.mt/the_palace_valletta. Built in 1574 as the seat of the Grand Master of the Knights of Malta, it's now home to the Maltese parliament and to the office of the president, and open to the public on weekdays. The historic Throne Room, the Tapestry Chamber, the Dining Room and the Ambassadors' Room are all on the tour.
Valletta Waterfront.Pinto Wharf, 00-356-2567 3000, vallettawaterfront.com. This series of baroque former warehouses has been renovated and developed by a private consortium as a trendy docklands location, with bars and restaurants, including the Hard Rock Café. It's the centre of the annual Malta Jazz Festival in July. Boat trips also start from here.
Museum of Archaeology.Auberge de Provence, Republic Street, 00-356-2122 1623, visitmalta.com/museum-of-archaeology. What an amazing place, charting the prehistory of the region from the arrival of man in 5200 BC. It houses one of the most important finds, the Venus of Malta, the figure of a tiny fertility goddess.
National War Museum.Fort St Elmo, 00-356-2122 2430, visitmalta.com/national-war-museum. The people of Malta were awarded the George Cross in 1942 for their extraordinary endurance in the face of German and Italian bombing during the second World War. Amongst the exhibits are many of the awards received by Maltese servicemen and civilians.
Shop spot
You’ll find all the luxury brands on Republic Street, Merchant’s Street and St Paul’s Street, including dealers trading in silver and gold filigree and Maltese lace. There’s a colourful Sunday market outside City Gate every week.
Hot spot
Casino di Venezia. The Captain’s Palace, Vittoriosa Waterfront, 00-356-2180 5580, casinodivenezia.com. A big tourist attraction licensed by the Malta Lotteries and Gaming Authority. Worth a visit just to see the magnificent Renaissance palace built by the Knights of the Order of St John and overlooking the Grand Harbour. The terrace restaurant has a fantastic view.
Coffee break
Caffa Cordina. 244-245 Republic Street, 00-356-2123 4385, caffecordina.com. Perhaps the oldest café in Malta, an institution and a must-do for people-watchers. Take an outside table and watch the world go by.
What to avoid
Paying the congestion charge in the city centre. The system has been in place since May 2007 and works quite well. But the reason it’s needed is that the centre is tiny – so you’re much better off without a car.
A good night out
Manoel Theatre. Old Theatre Street, 00-356-2124 6389, teatrumanoel.com.mt. Malta’s National Theatre, called after António Manoel de Vilhena, Grand Master of the Knights of Malta, who commissioned it in 1731. Its austere façade hides a brilliantly ornate Rococo interior. It has a bar, a café, a restaurant and a museum and presents a mixed programme which includes drama, opera, concerts and children’s theatre. Well worth a visit.
Get in the mood
Hire Munich by Steven Spielberg on DVD and have a look at the backdrop – a lot of it is Valletta. There’s a good flavour too in Earthly Powers by Anthony Burgess and V. by Thomas Pynchon.
More information
The municipal site, cityofvalletta.org is quite informative. See visitmalta.com and heritagemalta.org.
Go There
Ryanair (ryanair.com) flies direct from Dublin to Malta three times a week, on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays. Air Malta, BMI, Swiss International and Lufthansa all have direct flights from London every day.