Go reader MARY MOYNIHANvisits the unspoilt Italian landscape of Cinque Terre
CINQUE TERRE – Five Lands in English – is a series of hamlets on the western coast of the Italian Riviera.Riomaggiore, Manarola, Corn-iglia, Vernazza and Monterosso cling to the cliff face or nestle in inlets, blending into this unique and unspoilt landscape, which has been nominated as a Unesco World Heritage site.
Before they were connected by train these pretty villages were accessible only by boat, virtually cut off from the rest of Italy even though they are on the mainland. A footpath between them, cut from sheer rock a stone’s throw from the sea, is the attraction for walkers. (See italyheaven.co.uk to whet your appetite.)
As our train from Pisa burst from the final tunnel we were nearly blinded by the bright blue of the sea and the whiteness of the surf at Riomaggiore, the most southerly of the Cinque Terre. We stayed on the train until we reached Monterosso al Mare, the fifth and largest village, which also has the longest waterfront.
We based ourselves here and relaxed in our hotel by the sea. (Demand for accommodation greatly outweighs supply, even out of season, so prices are high.)
The village is divided into old and new by a pedestrian tunnel where musicians often play, producing magical echoes. The old section is renowned for the unspoilt architecture of its medieval centre. The nicest restaurants are near the black-and-white church of San Giovanni Battista.
We didn’t meet any other Irish or British travellers, but English is widely spoken – by Aussie and American walkers.
The Cinque Terre walk is on the nursery slopes compared with the challenging Camino de Santiago, in Spain. We loved striding along the paths, looking down on the sparkling Mediterranean and being surrounded by blue, from sky and sea. We felt at one with nature in this peaceful haven.
Here there's a diversity of ages, with many travellers deciding to go solo. We enjoyed the camaraderie between walkers as we compared experiences over a leisurely evening meal. People from all cultures chatted to strangers at other tables, which was great fun. The food is mostly pasta ( trofieis the local dish) and fish. The Tuscan wine is Brunello (red) and Vernaccia (white). Prices are reasonable for food and wine.
Many travellers choose to stay outside of this national park, as it can get very busy in high season, especially at weekends. They opt instead for Portovenere, to the south, or Levanto, to the north. Realistically, it doesn’t matter where you stay, but it’s easier if you’re on the coast, as frequent ferries connect the Famous Five. Tourist facilities are very well organised, and it is easy to travel around. The tourist office at each train station will advise about treks, trains and passes.
We took a boat trip to Portovenere, which was much loved by Byron, Shelley and Dante, hence the name Golfo dei Poeti. The town has been described “as clinging to a rocky promontory that juts out into the sea and protects the harbour from the crashing waves”.
To the north, Levanto’s twisty old town is bisected by modern streets.
Our final adventure was to go north to fashionable Portofino for a day. We took a train to San Margherita Ligure, then strolled five and a half kilometres around the peninsula to get to this pretty town. (You can also go by bus or ferry).
Portofino was made famous in the 1950s by Elizabeth Taylor and Ingrid Bergman. These stars enjoyed opulence in their holiday homes in the horseshoe harbour.
The original fishing village is still the essence of luxury. The exclusive Splendid Hotel looks down on the calm waters below, charging its guests large sums of money for the privilege of being on high, but for mere mortals like us it has a port restaurant at the water’s edge.
I thought it would be fun to partake of such extravagance for a last lunch. So after a quick spruce up we allowed the maitre d’ to escort us to a table, where half a dozen waiters fussed over us. I hid behind my menu – nothing as vulgar as prices mentioned on the lady’s copy – while himself looked daggers across the table. Well, when in Rome...
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