GEMMA TIPTONstays at No 31, in Dublin
IF YOU WATCH enough Hollywood movies you'll soon discover that the baddies are often, architecturally speaking, modernists. James Bond villains tend to live in modernist houses, as do the bad guys in films such as The Big Lebowski, North by Northwestand Lethal Weapon 2.Oddly, Hollywood directors and producers are fond of living in modernist extravaganzas themselves.
Wondering exactly what it is that gives these houses their slightly dangerous appeal, I booked into one of Dublin’s hidden gems: Number 31, which is hidden down a lane off Leeson Street.
Number 31 was the home of Sam Stephenson, the late architect whom some might see as a bad guy himself, having been responsible for the Wood Quay office blocks and the Central Bank. Stephenson bought the coach house for €1,000 in the 1950s, when it was being used as stables. Having, as he described it, “more time than clients”, he decided to do the conversion work himself.
What he created, and what greets guests once they have passed through the anonymous-looking wooden gates, is a light and airy palace of pale wood, off-white and silver mosaic tiles, a sunken sitting room (known as the conversation pit), touches of gold, and exposed stonework.
There are six bedrooms in the coach house and a further 15 in a stunningly restored Georgian house, reached by passing through a delightful hidden garden. The two contrast greatly yet somehow work together – perhaps because the furnishings in the Georgian house are rather modernist while bedrooms in the coach house have the odd historical twist. What are common to all bedrooms, however, are fantastic Swedish beds by Hästens, which I discovered to be the Rolls-Royces of beds – or, as we are talking about Number 31, the Aston Martins with ejector seats, homing devices and hidden rocket boosters.
There is no bar, but guests who know their way around (and a great many return time and again) bring their own wine, or spirits and mixers, and the friendly and helpful staff are delighted to provide corkscrews, ice and glasses.
Our enormous room was in the basement of the Georgian house, and, although naturally quite dark, it was cleverly lit – and beautifully quiet. There are Pat Scott prints in all the bedrooms, and Noel Sheridan and Richard Gorman works in the sitting room and breakfast room, all of which suit the feel of the place perfectly.
Breakfast is in the coach house. Guests have a choice of three long communal tables, one of which is in a gorgeous conservatory, with views of Georgian Dublin, as well as of a couple of ducks that sat on a ledge and watched us eat our eggs. Number 31’s breakfasts have won awards. I had a light, airy mushroom frittata.
They are used to architectural groupies at Number 31, and, once some guests had checked out, they were happy to show us around the coach house rooms. They are entirely different in feel and mood, and I’d be hard put to say which I preferred: the old or the new. In Stephenson’s day his house had a reputation for being a great party house, and a sense of that lingers.
My favourite bedroom had a private garden; Stephenson’s own room would have done a Bond villain proud, with a huge skylight over a large low bed, a leather bedstead with a smoked-glass partition behind, and, beyond that, a huge built-in vanity table. It’s funny how, even while championing clean lines and trying to get away from decoration, architectural modernists were still a little in love with arts and crafts, as was evident here from all the mosaics and shiny touches. The blue-mosaicked bathroom, complete with sunken bath, is an architect’s fantasy bathroom, and the whole place has a strong fantasy feel. That said, they also know exactly what they’re doing when it comes to running a guest house, and we felt very well looked after.
After our tour we left, letting ourselves out into the Dublin morning, feeling as if we had had an adventure, and just more than a little tempted to cackle evilly and plan elaborate ways to take over the world. I dislike the office blocks at Wood Quay, though I’m rather fond of the Central Bank building, but what Number 31 proves is that Stephenson also had a fun side and, when he felt like it, a definite sense of beauty and a real eye for detail. One of modernism’s goodies? Maybe.
- WhereNumber 31, 31 Leeson Close, Dublin 2, 01-6765011, number31.ie.
- WhatTown-house guest house in the heart of Dublin.
- Rooms21: six in the coach house and 15 in the Georgian house.
- Best ratesB7B from €175 for two. Single rooms from €139. Discounts for longer stays.
- Restaurants and barsNone. Bring your own wine to enjoy in the "conversation pit".
- Child friendlinessChildren welcome. Two family rooms.
- AccessListed building; no access for wheelchair users.
- AmenitiesCentral location, free parking