Edinburgh combines medieval charm with new world style, writes Hilary MacKenzie
EDINBURGH is a city of contrasts. From the medieval tenements rising high above the narrow streets of the Old Town to the spacious Georgian splendour of Charlotte Square; from the cautious demeanour of the city's legal establishment to the uncontrollable explosion of creative energy that is the Edinburgh Festival Fringe; from the black rock on which the castle stands to the sharp skies that stretch away to the distant hills and out to sea. It is a city of contradictions and secrets, and visitors to Scotland's capital should to unlock them on foot.
I always start at the esplanade just in front of the castle. The views in all directions give you an immediate sense of the spectacular location that has made it a seat of power since the Iron Age.
Setting off down the hill, over the rough cobblestones of the Royal Mile, you enter the heart of the ancient city. Spend time in and around this area and you will find everything from Scottish kitsch to the specialist shops selling fine whiskies (Cadenhead's Whisky Shop, 172 Canongate, at the foot of the Royal Mile) or delicious cheeses (IJ Mellis, on Victoria Street).
But don't just stick to the main street itself, plagued as it is with too many tawdry shops peddling tartans galore. Every 20 strides on one side or the other a pend leads off to reveal old carved-stone doorways or a back courtyard with occasional bars and restaurants.
Edinburgh is worth visiting at any time of the year. In winter the days may be short, but it is often blessed with sharp blue skies and a clarity of light that opens up spectacular views in all directions.
For me, spring is the most attractive time to visit the city. In late April the trees are decorated with pink cherry blossom and the restaurants start to spill out on to the pavements, although you should wrap up if you are tempted to sample the delights of dining alfresco.
Edinburgh grew up around the natural defensive stronghold of the castle rock, which is still surrounded by imposing battlements and garrisoned by the army. Spreading down the ridge from the castle, the medieval Old Town was, for generations, enclosed by the city walls; with space at a premium, precarious stone tenements rose to perilous heights. Only some vestiges remain of the city walls, but you can see where the Old Town stops as spaces begin to open up to the north and south of the main thoroughfare connecting the castle to Holyrood Palace.
After the Jacobite rebellion ended in tragedy in the 1700s, Edinburgh reinvented itself with a New Town of neoclassical proportions on the fields that spread out to the north of the city walls. These elegant Georgian terraces and squares are still a delight to marvel at, and many are still family homes keeping the heart of the city alive.
Choosing somewhere to stay in Edinburgh is easy, because the city offers a wide range of accommodation to suit all budgets. It is worth, however, picking somewhere close to the city centre, to allow you explore it on foot.
Those up for taking in a little more exercise should venture farther afield and explore the wonderful grounds of the Royal Botanic Garden. Full of rare plants and spreading lawns, it is a delightful place to escape to in all seasons, with elegant glasshouses providing welcome refuge in case of rain, as well as an award-winning contemporary art gallery, named Inverleith House, in the centre of the grounds.
A trip of two or three days allows ample time to explore the highlights of the city, including visiting the galleries, seeing Holyrood Palace and enjoying some of the restaurants.
If you have more time, hire a car and make a trip out of town to walk along one of the sandy beaches in East Lothian, play a round of golf at one of the many public courses, explore the magnificent ruined castles at Dirleton and Tantallon or visit the superb Robert Adam country house at Hopetoun.
The best places to sleep, eat, drink and visit during your stay
Go stay
The Bonham Hotel is a modern boutique hotel in a classic Victorian town house, a short walk from Princes Street. Great attention to detail, from the furnishings and fittings to the service. Bonham Hotel, 35 Drumsheugh Gardens, New Town. Tel: 0044-131-2747400, www.thebonham.com
The Point Hotel is a former department store that was given an inventive makeover in the early 1990s. It manages to be both comfortable and minimalist, with great views of the castle from the rooftop terrace of the adjoining conference centre. Point Hotel, 34 Bread Street, West End. Tel: 0044-131-2215555 www.point-hotel.co.uk
The Apex Hotel is part of a standard chain but is in great location, tucked underneath the castle. Not the quietest place to be, as the bars dotted around the Grassmarket attract a boisterous crowd late into the night. Apex Hotel, Grassmarket, Old Town. Tel: 0044-131-3003456, www.apexhotels.co.uk
Smart City Hostels. Half hotel, half hostel, it has a fast and economic approach which will suit those looking for somewhere to lay their head. 50 Blackfriars Streer, Old Town. Tel: 0044-870-8923000 www.smartcityhostels.co.uk
Castle Rock Hostel. Cheap and cheerful but full of life. Dormitory accommodation, shared bathrooms right beside the castle. There are some private rooms. 15 Johnston Terrace, Old Town. Tel: 0044- 131-2259666 www. royalmilebackpackers.com
Go eat
The Kitchin is the latest edition to Edinburgh's fine dining scene. Tom Kitchin opened in the summer of 2006 and won his first Michelin Star in record time after only seven months. Stylish but with a laid-back ambience, it has delicious and imaginative cuisine. 78 Commercial Quay, Leith. Tel: 0044-131-5551755 www.thekitchin.com
Oloroso. On a fine day the roof-top terrace is one of the most beautiful places to enjoy the spectacular view over Edinburgh. Inside, there is an upmarket restaurant with prices to match and the best cocktail bar in town. 33 Castle Street, New Town. Tel: 0044 131 226 7614 www.oloroso.co.uk
Zanzero. This bright and breezy Italian diner is the latest venture from Edinburgh's renowned Contini family, who combine the very best ingredients in innovative ways. 15 North West Circus Place, New Town. Tel: 0044-131-2200333 www.zanzero.com
Creelersis one of the best places to sample seafood. Tim and Fran also run their own smoking and curing business on the Isle of Arran. You can buy their fresh fish at the farmers' market on Saturday morning or enjoy it here in greater comfort. Hunter Square, Old Town. Tel: 0044 131 220 4447 www.creelers.co.uk
David Bann features inventive and delicious gourmet vegetarian cooking in relaxed, comfortable surroundings. 56 St Mary's Street, Old Town. Tel: 0044-131 -556-5888 www.davidbann.com
Things to do
Climb Arthur's Seat.
Look round the Scottish Parliament.
Watch the penguin parade at Edinburgh Zoo.
Edinburgh Castle - not as exciting as it should be and over-priced.
Ghost tours - late night walking tours around the closes and wynds of the Old Town.
Go sip
Fruit Market Gallery Café is a delightful cafe with delicious Green Mountain Coffee in front of Edinburgh's leading contemporary art gallery. A great place to hang out any time of day. 45 Market Street, Old Town. Tel: 0044-131-226- 1843 www.fruitmarket.co.uk
Gallery Café - Self service but delicious. On a fine day you can sit outside in the garden and soak up the sun after exploring the changing exhibitions in the galleries. (Also a great place for the kids to run around on Charles Jencks' landform.) Scottish National Gallery of Art, 75 Belford Road, West End. Tel: 0044-131-332-8600
Go hot spot
Opal Lounge - Still living on its reputation for being the place where Prince William used to hang out when a student. 51A George Street, New Town. Tel: 0044 131 226 2275 www.opallounge.co.uk
Cabaret Voltaire - Hosts a variety of cool club nights. 36 Blair Street, Old Town.
Tel: 0044-131-2206176
Go out
Scotch Malt Whisky Society. It's a club, but anyone can turn up and join for the price of £75 (€99), which includes some whisky. The best place to sample a huge range of unique whiskies, specially bottled for the members. 28 Queen Street, New Town. Tel: 0044-131-2202044 www.smws.com
Go shop
Harvey Nichols in St Andrew's Square is a great place to soak up the view - even if you can't afford the clothes.
George Street. Everything from Jo Malone to Brooks Brothers and Hobbs to French Connection.
Recently re-opened, Plaisir du Chocolat on Thistle Street creates the most magnificent range of chocolates you'll find in these islands.
Anta. For once, a shop selling tartan rugs and ceramics of real quality, all designed and manufactured by hand up in Easter Ross by Annie Stewart and her team. West Bow, Old Town.
Things to avoid
Princes Street - the view of the castle is magnificent, but for decent shops go one street back to discover the boutiques on George Street.
Bag piping buskers on street corners - about one in every 10 can play and make a tune come alive, but the rest make you reach for the ear plugs.
Things to read
Black and Blue by Ian Rankin - the best of the Rebus series.
Trainspotting by Irvine Welsh - a hilarious raw cry from the heroin-fuelled underbelly of the city.
The Prime of Miss Jean Brodie by Muriel Spark - a well loved classic with a sharp wit.
Getting there
A number of airlines fly to Edinburgh International Airport (situated 12km west of the city centre) with prices varying depending on how early you book, what carrier you use and whether you fly direct.
Both Aer Lingus and Ryanair fly operate direct flights from Dublin to Edinburgh, with prices starting at as little as €11 one-way (excluding taxes).
Aer Arann flies operates daily direct flights from both Cork and Galway, with prices starting at € 49.99 one-way (excluding taxes).
British Airways operates an indirect service (via London Heathrow and Gatwick) from Dublin, Cork, and Belfast International.