Bernice Harrisonand Elaine Edwardstake their guide's advice to heart and do something they're afraid of every day on an adventure holiday in northeast Spain
SPAS ARE SO last year. Why would you want to pad around in a dressing gown waiting for an overpriced "treatment" like a Victorian lady with the vapours when you could be spending the weekend in the foothills of the Pyrenees on an exhilarating adventure holiday?
On a recent Friday evening, an hour or so after leaving the super-smart train station in Zaragoza (built for this year's Expo), my colleague Elaine and I were sitting on tiny wooden platforms way above the treetops, kitted out in reassuringly ugly safety gear and getting ready to jump off and hurl ourselves down a zip wire.
"You must do something you are afraid of every day," said our guide, Fernando Garrido, when in a faltering moment I thought that maybe I couldn't trust the seemingly impossible narrow wire I had to cross to get to the next platform. "Otherwise, how do you know you are alive?" I was out on that wire pronto.
The first activity on our adventure weekend in Aragon, in northeast Spain, was trying arborismo in the Gallego valley in Huesca, with the sun shining on the pink-tinged sugarloaf mountains in the background. An arborismo is a course of man-made, vertiginously high rope-and-wire walkways, platforms and zip wires that takes over an hour to complete. They're big in France and rarer in Spain, and the best part is that there's no real reason to do it except for the thrill.
Fernando's company, Aragón Aventura, is one of the many adventure-holiday providers that have sprung up in this spectacularly beautiful region.
In the foothills of the Pyrenees, which are dotted with sleepy villages, most offer mountain and rock climbing of various levels and types; there's also caving, kayaking and rafting, moutain biking through the forests or simply hiking in the extraordinarily beautiful and rugged countryside. It would make a fantastic holiday for families with older kids.
It's not the easiest part of Spain to get to from Ireland. We flew from Dublin to Barcelona, then took a three-hour train trip north to Zaragoza, where we were met by Garrido, whose experience ranges from leading expeditions in the Himalayas and Everest right down, by the end of the weekend, to teaching two Irishwomen the basics of belaying, an essential skill that turns out to be attaching yourself to a rock or cable when climbing to prevent falling.
He sorted out our accommodation, drove us from one activity to the next and, most importantly, assessed our level of fitness and experience and went through a thorough how-to on all activities. The company also supplied the kit, from climbing harnesses and helmets to wetsuit booties for the river-bed hike.
On the train from Barcelona, Elaine and I had a chance to look at the itinerary. Some things were familiar - horse- riding: we knew what that was, and weren't particularly confident about it, but "via ferrata", anyone? We would have to wait until day three of our trip to find out what that was.
We did have a chance to speculate about why we had been sent by Go's editor on an adventure weekend. We didn't know each other - a nodding hello in the canteen queue doesn't really count - and neither of us consider ourselves wildly outdoorsy, never mind adventurous, but Elaine did eventually admit to having done the Liffey Descent, which is seriously impressive stuff, and although my cycling to work is not exactly an extreme sport (though it can come close), being seen on a bike can give the impression of sportiness, however false. As it turned out, every activity has a level that would suit most people - we were pitched pretty much at beginner level. All that really counts is enthusiasm.
We packed in a lot in less than four days. There were two major hikes, one in the magnificent Ordesa National Park in the shadow of the magnificent Monte Perdido, in its full autumnal glory, which led us up past a series of thundering waterfalls. In winter Perdido's peaks are covered in snow, and at 3,355m it's only for serious climbers. Another day we hiked along and through the River Vero, beginning and ending the trek in the beautiful, sleepy Moorish hilltop town of Alquézar. Many of the other towns we visited as we drove around were practically deserted, weekend retreats for people working in Zaragoza and Madrid.
A rainy morning - the area isn't a guaranteed-weather sort of place - deferred climbing plans, so we wandered around Loarre Castle, a spectacular ancient fortress outside the town of Ayerbe.
A personal highlight was the afternoon spent riding horses through a forested valley outside San Juan de La Peña, because as we ended the excursion we started to see yellow arrows painted on waymarks - signs that we were on a section of the Camino de Santiago. Having completed the final 120km of the camino last year, it was a thrill to be on four legs in the Pyrenees doing the first few kilometres of that great walk.
The most challenging activity was the via ferrata, which, when we hiked up a mountain, we discovered was a route up a rockface fitted with cables and terrifyingly inconveniently-placed metal footholds, so you have to be constantly stretching and searching for the next thing to hold on to, all the while trying to forget the long drop.
For me it was a case of holding on with white knuckles, trying not to think of the 150m fall and managing to get to the top only because of Garrido's endless patience and encouragement. Afterwards, as we were untying the ropes that had joined us together as we climbed, and when Elaine's legs had stopped shaking and the adrenaline-induced tremors had gone from my hands, we were both thrilled with ourselves for having managed to try something neither of us would normally dream of.
So we were game for anything, which might explain why we were sent on this adventure trip, but in one respect we were not really the ideal candidates, in that both of us are fish-eating vegetarians and this part of Spain, at least, is for red- blooded carnivores. Even the most delicious veggie-sounding bean dish always turns out to have a bit of jamónin it, so both us ate rather a lot of eggs and cheese, although fish did feature on all the menus in the restaurants we went to.
As we were moving around the Aragon region - we had a chance to try out three different levels of hotels, from the basic but perfectly clean and comfortable three-star Hotel Villa de Ayerbe to the four-star modern Hotel Reina Felicia in Jaca (a bustling town popular with skiers, as it's only 20km from the French border) and the super-luxurious five-star Hotel Barcelo Boltaña, a beautifully converted, art-filled monastery high in hills outside the small town of Boltana.
We arrived with just enough time to get out of the climbing gear and dress for dinner. There's a luxurious spa in the hotel, but we were too pleasantly tired and relaxed from destressing out of work into the real world to even bother giving it a go.
BH
Go There
Aer Lingus (www.aerlingus. com) flies to Barcelona from Dublin, Cork and Belfast.
The activities that will push you to the limit
YOU COULD cover many kilometres in the quest for the full adventure experience in Aragon, a region that is about two-thirds the size of Ireland. If you're not prepared to drive, then consider finding a good base town and arrange guided trips from there.
Large towns, such as Jaca, in Huesca, are geared up for tourists and have plenty of accommodation, including campsites. Jaca has four ski runs on its doorstep, and Ayerbe, Aïnsa, Alquézar and Boltaña are also worth visiting.
It's definitely worth building a day or two of relaxation, or perhaps a city break, into your trip. Zaragoza city, at the heart of the three provinces of Huesca, Zaragoza and Teruel, is less than two hours by train from Barcelona or Madrid.
A number of adventure companies operate in the area, and some towns, such as Murillo de Gállego, are particularly popular spots for kayakers and other water enthusiasts in peak season, from about May to September.
In three and a half packed days we managed a small selection of the many activities on offer, including hiking in Parque Nacional de Ordesa and around the canyons of the River Vero, in the Sierra de Guara; horse riding in Castiello de Jaca on a road that's part of the Camino de Santiago; climbing a via ferrata in the Sierra de Guara; and arborismo, involving some precarious walking on high wooden and rope bridges in Murillo de Gállego, Huesca.
Arborismo
This activity consists, essentially, of working your way around a circuit of high, narrow wooden platforms connected by bridges of rope, wood and steel cable and whizzing from one to another via a zip line. Sometimes called a Tarzan swing or canopy tour when set in highly wooded areas, the arborismo circuit at Murillo de Gállego enjoys the magnificent backdrop of the Mallos de Riglos, huge red rock formations unusual to the region. It's all very safe, as you're fastened by a harness and ropes, and the entire circuit was designed and tested by engineers. Huge fun - and a great cure for vertigo.
Canyoning
Canyoning, or barranquismoin Spanish, involves (with varying levels of difficulty) swimming, jumping, climbing and, occasionally, some ropework and abseiling to wind your way through a canyon. It requires safety equipment, including helmets and wetsuits. Beceite and Javalambre are described as "spectacular", and the canyons of the River Vero, near Alquézar, are, we can attest, breathtaking. The Aragón tourism authorities say that the region is, unfortunately, "terra incognita" for most tourists. Indeed, our guide told us much of the beauty in the Sierra de Guara area is "under the ground", deep in the canyons and gorges.
Via ferrata
Dotted throughout the mountains of Spain, France, Switzerland, Germany, Italy, via ferrata are climbing routes with their origins in military logistics. They were originally created by the Italian and Austrian armies in the early 19th century to maximise the mobility of troops in the mountains. They use cables, fixed wooden or metal rungs and, sometimes, bridges to aid the climb. They are now often built by climbers and adventure companies. We tackled the "easy" via ferrata at Santa Elena de Biescas, in the Tena valley. Experienced climbers, including our guide, have done this 110m ascent without safety equipment. It should, apparently, take about 30 minutes. We emerged at the top pale, breathless, sweating and uncontrollably shaking after about an hour, convinced we'd conquered Everest. We'd definitely do it again.
Horse riding
Caballos de Castiello equestrian centre is located right on the Camino de Santiago pilgrimage route, in the pretty Castiello de Jaca. It runs guided trips for an hour, two hours, a half-day or a full day, geared towards the level of experience of the group.
Kayaking
Villages and towns along the River Gállego, one of many tributaries of the Ebro, play host to independent groups of kayakers, particularly in peak season, but it's also possible to organise kayaking as part of a multi-adventure programme. In high water, parts of the river are considered suitable only for experienced kayakers, but there are calmer parts suitable for beginners with a guide. Ensure you have an experienced guide who knows the limitations of beginners, or that you have appropriate paddling experience to take on the river. The River Cinca and mountain lakes such as the Yesa, the Mediano and the Bubal are also popular for water sports.
Climbing and hiking
There are thousands of kilometres to explore, either independently or with a mountain guide. Ordesa National Park (Parque Nacional de Ordesa) is spectacular. You can take guided trips and enjoy panoramic views from the high-level fajas- natural pathways in the rock formation - including Faja de Pelay and Faja de las Flores. Paths are well marked out: white and red for long routes (GR) or white and yellow if they are short (PR). Other activities on offer include rafting or hydrospeed (water-sledging) on the Gállego and other rivers, and diving in the lakes of the Pyrenees. Abseiling and "puenting", or bridge jumping - similar to bungee jumping - are also popular with adrenalin junkies. In puenting, the objective is to achieve a pendulum effect as you swing from two ropes and a harness. The Aragón tourism authorities describe it as a "brief, but very intense" sensation. We imagine so, yes.
Trekking
Treks of up to seven days can be organised with or without a guide in Parque Nacional de Ordesa. With full board in a pensión, including picnics for the hungry hikers, a guided week-long trek costs about €510 for groups of six and up with Aragón Aventura.
Guides and safety
It shouldn't be a major issue, but ensure that you have a guide who speaks your language or who can translate for you. This will help your enjoyment, particularly if he or she can give you a taste of the local history and geography. More importantly, it will ensure that there are no potential misunderstandings over safety issues. Ensure you are given proper equipment for every activity. If you have doubts or don't feel up for any of the activities, don't be afraid to say so.
What to bring
Proper footwear, trust us, is not optional. Bring hiking boots or decent walking shoes. You'll be tackling muddy terrain, gravel, ropes, bridges and slippery rock. Also bring old runners for water activities. Wet gear, depending on the season, and dry tops can be useful. Don't forget the suncream and blister plasters.
What to leave behind
Whingers or people with diva tendencies, large make-up bags and hairdryers. You will get wet, cold, tired, sore, scared at times, battered and a bit bruised . . . but you'll have the time of your life.
EE
• Bernice Harrison and Elaine Edwards were guests of the Government of Aragon and the Spanish Tourist Office in Dublin, and guided by Fernando Garrido of Aragón Aventura
Where to stay
Hotels
• Hotel Villa de Ayerbe, Duque de Bivona 15,
Ayerbe, Huesca, 00-34-974-380080, www.hotelayerbe.com. This hotel was used by the crew on Ridley's Scott's 2005 film Kingdom of Heaven, shot on location at the imposing 13th-century Loarre Castle. Rooms are basic but clean (and the walls are thin), but the hospitality was good and the food fantastic.
• Hotel Reina Felicia,
Paseo Camino de Santiago 16-20, Jaca, Huesca, 00-34-974-365333, www.pronihoteles.com. The rooms were fine and spacious, but the hotel is in a built-up area in a new development that caters strongly for the winter skiing market. A lot of samey little boxes in a "chalet" style. Food wasgood, but the restaurant and bar suffered a chronic lack of ambience - lots of echo, with shiny steel and vivid pink, grey and black decor.
• Hotel Barcelo Boltana, Calle Afueras. Boltana,
Huesca, 00-34-974-508000, www.barcelo.com/ BarceloHotels/en-GB/Hotels/ Spain/Huesca/MonasterioDe Boltana. This superb spa hotel is the renovated 17th-century Monasterio del Carmen, on the banks of the River Ara, northeast of Huesca. It was a shame we didn't get to salve the bruises with an afternoon in what looked like a glorious spa. Definitely next time.
Campsites
• Camping La Banera, Centra de Loarre, Ayerbe, 00-34-974-380242
• Armalygal (Camping and activities), Carretera A 132, Murillo de Gállego, Zaragoza, 00-34-974-383005, www.armalygal.com.
• Camping Victoria, Jaca, Centra Sabiñanigo, PuenteLa Reina, Jaca,00-34-974-357008, www.vayacamping.net.
Tailor Your Trip
• Activities are usually based on a minimum number of four, six or eight people in a group.
• Canyon descents, a speciality, range in cost from about €31 for a simple canyon to €54 per person for a more difficult descent in the Sierra de Guara canyons. Rafting ranges from €29 for a simple descent to about €45 for more technical trips.
• Hiking in national parks, such as Parque Nacional de Ordesa, start at €19 per person for a minimum group of eight. Tailor-made programmes lasting from two days to a week are also available. A seven-day trip, at a cost of €181 per person, will allow you to sample all the activities.
• Our guide, Fernando Garrido, suggests the following as an ideal programme:
Day 1Travel and transport to Ayerbe, Huesca. Rafting in Murillo de Gállego. Night in Ayerbe.
Day 2Trekking and via ferrata in Los Mallos de Riglos,near Ayerbe. Transport to Jaca and spend the night in the town.
Day 3Via ferrata de Santa Elena and canyoning. Night in Torla or Broto.
Day 4Trekking in Valle de Ordesa. Night in Boltaña or Ainsa.
Day 5Canyoning in Alquézar (Sierra de Guara) and home.
Contacts
Arborismowww.verticalia.es.
Via ferratawww.viaferrata.org.
Horse riding and quad biking www.caballosde castiello.com
Aragón AventuraCalle Pablo Iglesias 12, Jaca, 00-34-974-362-996, www.aragonaventura.es.
Turismo de Aragonwww.turismodearagon.com.
Zaragoza Tourism:http://www.zaragoza.es/ciudad/turismo
Tour Spain:www.tourspain.es