Lap of luxury on the slopes

GO SKIING: With everything from gourmet meals and luxury accommodation taken care of, all you have to worry about is honing your skiing skills on the mountains, writes JASON MICHAEL

THE FIRST DAY of a ski trip to the French resort of Morzine, and it felt more like Alpine pet training. “Stroke the dog, stroke the dog,” our guide Pascal yells at me. “It’s a little dog, not a big dog,” he bellows helpfully as I lower my hand mid-turn in search of fictional Fido’s head and stability in my turn.

Guests of Irish chalet company Highlife, our group had been driven from Geneva airport with the promise of fun days on the piste, bookended by comfortable chalet living. What I hadn’t expected was the expertly- administered overhaul of my ski technique, familiar as an old pair of socks but with just as many holes.

Still, at least there was snow, having arrived earlier in Morzine, albeit out of high season, to find an attractive town free of the white stuff. Located between Mont Blanc and Lake Geneva, Morzine is a lively, year-round centre that acts as a gateway to the Portes du Soleil, 650km of ski slopes and 12 linked resorts either side of the French-Swiss border. However, its proximity to Geneva airport – only 50 miles away – means it sits at a relatively low altitude of 1,000m.

Sensing our unease, the driver reassured us there is plenty of snow at nearby Avoriaz – and right he was. This purpose-built, pedestrian-only resort, developed from the 1960s, lies at 1,800m and is accessible from Morzine by lift. After kitting ourselves out in a local ski shop, spirits rise in tandem with altitude as we reach the pistes in Avoriaz, feeling like Bikram-yoga-on-ice contestants in the afternoon sun.

As with most French ski areas, there are enough runs here to cater for all levels and times of the day. There are the broad, forgiving slopes where our group adopts the snaking pattern common to ski schools everywhere. Then there are tighter, technique-sapping trails through forests where James Bond chase fantasies can be acted out with an off-piste diversion. At one point, Pascal indicates a massive wall of ice masquerading as a black run and queries whether we’d like to give it a lash. Several nervous glances later, we opt to defer.

By this stage Simon Egan, Highlife managing director, has joined us. He explains how he and fellow Irishmen Alan Moynihan and David Hogan set up the company in 2002, with the aim of taking the hassle out of ski holidays and providing a high level of accommodation and service – not always found with snow holidays.

This philosophy becomes particularly apparent later in the day. In my world, apres-ski traditionally extends to beers and taking my boots off, or beers and keeping boots on. This being a classier trip, though, we return to High Life’s six-ensuite-bedroomed Chalet Delphine in Morzine to find white-towelled robes and slippers awaiting us. Then it’s off to the sauna room, where we banish the toxins and fiddle with every possible setting in the hot tub.

LOUNGING UPSTAIRS is the next order of the evening. Adjacent to an open-plan kitchen and dining area, you’d struggle not to relax in a large room featuring a free-standing fire, long inviting sofas and freshly-baked biscuits on the table. The general sense of bon vivants on tour is only enhanced by the Irish chalet staff catering to our every whim. Hosts David and Alannah pass around the aperitifs as chef Bernard prepares the meal – chicken liver and port pate, pork fillet in prosciutto, followed by chocolate mousse with a raspberry compote.

THIS TYPE OF ski holiday means never having to wonder what’s on the menu (the chef introduces every course), never having to ask for more drink (glasses are refilled at just the right time) and never running out of room towels. All guests have to worry about is honing their skills on the mountains while avoiding face plants into the snow.

This level of chalet hospitality does not come cheap, particularly in recessionary times, but Simon says demand for Highlife’s product has remained strong, and it’s not difficult to see why. Snow aficionados know from experience that winter holidays are laced with an array of costs and tedious tasks forgotten about since the last time. Pay your money here, the dictum goes, and make the bad stuff go away.

Flights and ski/snowboarding packages are not included in Highlife’s price – although they can customise and book these – but most everything else is. There’s the airport transfers and in-resort shuttles, piste guiding services, all you can eat and drink, and Wi-Fi in your chalet. Take the pain of an early flight, and Morzine’s part of the bargain will see you on the slopes by lunch. Sounds like luxury to me.

Highlife operates in Morzine, Méribel and Val d’Isère. The company’s season runs from December 3rd to April 22nd. Week-long inclusive packages are available from €805 for an adult and €658 for a child under 12. Short breaks are also available for three to four nights from €499. highlife.ie

Apres ski what else to do . . .

Other activities

* Nocturnal sledging: Take the Pleney cable car at dusk and toboggan down closed ski slopes by the light of a headlamp. 00-33-450-494860, indianaventures.com.

* Sleigh ride: Explore Avoriaz in a horse-drawn sleigh. The coachmen are found at the reception desk at the resort entrance. Entrée-station, Avoriaz, 00-33-450-740155.

* Pamper off piste: A mobile service offering massages and beauty treatments in holiday accommodation. The “skier’s tonic” massage is just that. 00-33-617-608902, pamperoffpiste.com.

Going out

* La Chaudanne wine bar, 00-33-450-791268, lachaudanne-morzine.com. An atmospheric wood-panelled establishment in Morzine that boasts fine wines and Savoyarde specialities such as tartiflette, fondues and raclette.

* L’ Etale, Morzine, 00-33-450-790929. A popular eatery with a reputation for reasonable prices and generous portions.

* Le Vaffieu, 00-33-450-790943. At the top of the Belvedere chairlift, this busy restaurant on the slopes is the ideal spot for that long lunch. Try the grilled lamb followed by fruit crumble and ice cream.

Useful links

* Easy2Ride Ski and Snowboard Academy, morzineski.fr.

* General Morzine/Avoriaz site, morzine-avoriaz.com.

Get there 

Aer Lingus (aerlingus.com) flies to Geneva from Dublin and Cork and to Lyon from Dublin. Ryanair (ryanair.com) flies from Dublin to Grenoble (210km away). In addition to car hire and shuttle buses, a regular bus service (altibus.com) is available during the winter season.