Perfect peninsula panorama

DOWN HERE in the southwest we tend to be arrogant about the mighty vistas from the mountainous spines of our elegant peninsulas. However, I was shaken out of my complacency recently when I took a trundle up Tully Mountain (356m) on Connemara’s Renvyle peninsula where I discovered a prospect to rival anything the southwest has to offer.

The gate at the top of the quarry track is not locked or tied but make sure to close it as sheep frequently graze just inside it. The eastern slope of this mountain offers the best type of terrain for walking: short heather on dry springy turf. There are patches of sphagnum moss but these are easily avoided.

A local farmer told me there was a track to the summit but I didn’t find it until half way up. There were so many sheep trails it was difficult to pick it up. You don’t need to, however, as you can head uphill along the spur.

As you get higher you see a distinctive projection of rock on the skyline. Head for the right of this and pick up the path which is no wider than a sheep track. Watch your footing as there are a number of potholes along it. The summit is marked by a triangulation pillar which appears to be in the centre of a Bronze Age cairn. The relatively low Tully Mountain affords views of a panoply of peaks stretching from north Mayo to Slieve Elva in Co Clare. This being a peninsula, the sea views are superb – ranging from the beaches of south Mayo to numerous islands. But, to get the best views, go to the end of the summit ridge.

THUS FAR THIS is an easy walk but, if you go further, you’ll be heading into a jumble of rocky ridges. The crest is broader than you expect and if a mist came down it would be easy to drift on to the steep ground on either side.

Heading northwest pass two small lakes before arriving at a second cairn near spot height 303m. This cairn looks down on a beautiful coastal plain, fringed with beaches, enlivened by lakes and speckled with prehistoric monuments. Beyond the coastline a haze obscured views of Inishbofin, Inishturk, Clare Island, Achill and a host of smaller isles – it must be a fine view on a clear day.

To complete the ridge walk, drop down to the boggy col containing Lough Awaume and then on to spot height 272m.

As I retraced my steps some sparkling white rocks caught my eye and I went over to investigate. It turned out to be an extrusion of milky quartz.

I dropped down to the outcrop of rocks below the summit which made a splendid viewing point. It was evening and the lowering sun etched out details of the Twelve Bens and Mweelrea. The breadth of the view and the exotic light reminded me of old films with the lone cowboy heading off towards distant mountains. But, instead of dull cactus and sage brush, the Connemara lowlands were a vivid mix of greens and blues. And I had the best seat to enjoy it.

Route: Tully Mountain, Renvyle peninsula, Connemara

MapOrdnance Survey, Discovery Series, Sheet 37.

Start/finishThe quarry track on the third-class road leading to Letter More and Letter Beg. Grid reference: 685 560.

Get thereTurn off at Letterfrack on the N59 Clifden to Leenaun road. The turn off for Letter More is 2.7km north of Letterfrack. At the first fork on the road keep left. The wide stony track is easy to spot about 200m west of the quay.

TimeThree hours.

Distance6km.

Total ascent370m.

SuitabilitySummit route is easy. Ridge walk is moderate. Bring map, rain gear and boots.

AccommodationRenvyle House Hotel/local guesthouses.