Rare auld time in rural region

Often ignored and forgotten, Ballyhoura Country in Munster has a lot to offer, writes BRIAN O'CONNELL

FOR THE PAST 15 years I have been living in Cork city, and during that period I must have driven through Mallow, Charleville and Limerick hundreds of times en route to Co Clare, my family home.

Only once do I remember venturing off the main road, when I stopped to have a look at Oliver Reed's grave in Churchtown. In all that time, it never occurred to me to turn right at Mallow or Buttevant and explore sweeping tree-lined routes that trickled from the main road all the way to the apron of the Ballyhoura Mountains, visible in the distance.

When family visit, or if we decide to go for a Sunday spin, generally the car is pointed towards Kinsale or Clonakilty to the west, or perhaps Cobh or Ballycotton to the east. The idea of taking a trip to north Cork, to the Ballyhoura region, never really registered. And therein lies both the charm and the difficulty for this rugged, sometimes regal landscape.

It exists in an area where it must compete for attention against some of Ireland's most identifiable tourist destinations, wedged between Cork and Limerick, an hour from either Killarney or Cashel. The "Ballyhoura Country" region, though, has much to offer, from lush rolling landscape and estates, to exotic gardens and unspoilt country walks and outdoor activities. Coupled with its scenic beauty, perhaps its other great quality is the people who, incredible as it may sound, have time to stop and chat and make visitors feel welcome.

A visit to the region, then, is like an Irish tourism experience in the rare auld times. There's crossroads dancing and road bowling at weekends in some villages and, at Newtwopothouse, not an area writ large in the annals of rock folklore, the Hazel Tree bar has weekly dances where the men stand on one side and the unattached women on the other. Imperial Leather hangs in the air as acts like Declan Nerney and Jimmy Buckley sing about Galway girls and courting.

During our weekend visit we based ourselves in Doneraile, a wonderfully authentic planned town that once served the needs of nearby Doneraile Court. Our accommodation was the early 19th century townhouse Creagh House, part of the Hidden Ireland network and a labour of love for owners Michael O'Sullivan and Laura O'Mahony.

Three rooms are let to guests, and the house is full of literary and historical relevance. William Thackeray's wife lived here for a period, while Daniel O'Connell is said to have stayed here in the early 1840s.

The current owners have successfully saved and rejuvenated the building from ruin. The libraries have been restocked with books relevant to the house and furniture sensitive to the period, from impressive dining tables to large oversized mirrors and four-poster beds, have all been bought at auction. The conversation was informed and lively, and the rooms huge and authentic. It's a real gem. Laura also happens to make some of the best home-made biscuits this side of Bath.

FIRST STOP ON our planned itinerary was Annes Grove Gardens, a few miles from Doneraile on the road to Castletownroche. I'd bumped into a Cork writer in the city earlier that morning, and mentioned my plan to visit Annes Grove, home of the Annesley family. "If the sun is shining and you hang out under the rhododendrons, it's like an organic trip," he said. Who needs headshops when you've got horticultural highs then?

The gardens are mainly dating from the early 20th century and laid out, the brochure says, "in the Robinsonian manner". For a floral ignoramus like myself, that means lots of recognisable (as well as unusual) looking plants and flowers, walled gardens, beautiful river scenes and secret 18th century paths.

Owner Patrick Grove Annesley gave us a tour, also kindly showing us inside the main house, which suffered damage during the cold spell, yet still retains an air of practical grandeur. Indeed, the gardens themselves are also recovering from the unusually harsh winter, and some plants, he feared, may never return.

Of those that will, a crop of the dreaded Japanese knotweed endures. Mr Annesley relayed an anecdote about a group of well-informed Japanese tourists on a tour of the gardens, as he attempted to highlight as many eastern references in the flora as he could, saving the knotweed for last. "Ah," the Asian tour guide said, "in our country, we call this American bamboo!"

Lunch was a surreal experience in nearby Dinocafe in Castletownroche, where a former Garda barracks has been turned into a regular café, and not so regular dinosaur museum.

Originally from the UK, the owner, David Gavin, married a local girl, Marian, and still maintains his day job making models for the film business, with his workshop on site.

THE EXHIBITION SPACE is evolving, and a planned interactive aspect has been shelved for now as the economic downturn effects suppliers. The dinosaur centre runs over two floors and has realistic representations of various types of dinosaurs and their environments. With a little support, the centre could be a nice stop off for the kids on a rainy day. The food was a mix of English café and decent Irish fare, and seemed popular with locals who use the main dining room for functions.

The afternoon was spent back in Doneraile on the grounds of Doneraile Court. The magnificent house and outbuildings are undergoing an extensive refurbishment at present, and the future of the site, once finished, remains up in the air at present. What struck us was the fact that locals avail of the grounds for walks, runs and to use the kids' playground. It's unusual to have such a large estate so close to the village centre (literally five minutes walk) and it would be ideal as a setting for concerts, festivals or regular events and fairs.

Doneraile is one of a number of similar estates throughout the country which would benefit from a well-funded Irish Heritage Trust being in a position to take them over and maximise their tourist potential. As it is, though, the Heritage Trust, despite its best intentions and expertise, is somewhat toothless due to a lack of resources.

Doneraile Court was once the administrative and business capital of Munster, seat of the St Leger family, and yet today it stands empty and in need of repair, behind temporary fencing. Locals are hoping that once the repairs are finished, the community will be involved in a constructive and forward thinking plan for the estate.

THIRTY MINUTES drive from Doneraile town, Mitchelstown Cave is a site beloved of school tour groups and individual tourists for generations.

It is still owned by the same family who first discovered the cave, and their descendants live at the bottom of the lane leading to the impressive underground caverns.

We stopped for a cup of tea after our visit and owner Kay English had sponge and jamcake waiting. She cut mountain-sized slices and talked about the decline of American visitors, and how the new emigrants here, mostly Polish, now make up a sizeable number of weekend visitors.

Amanda Slattery, who works for Ballyhoura Country tourism, showed us around, marking out features that have evolved over thousands of years.

Our weekend visit was capped off by an evening meal in nearby Ballinwillin House, a lived-in country house built in 1777 by the Earl of Kingston. Patrick and Miriam Mulcahy and family now live in and farm the house and lands, and have refurbished the courtyards to provide high standard guest accommodation, equivalent to your average four-star hotel. But the real treat here is the artisan food and wines, much of it influenced by the family's business interests in Hungary.

Patrick gave us a tour of the livestock, which include deer, Iron Age pigs, wild boar and Kerry cattle, while his son hosted a wine tasting session.

The food was superb and served in a specially remodelled outbuilding, complete with wood ovens and long eating tables. Heck, one of the siblings even played piano.

There we were, sun setting on a very Anglo-Irish building, eating local wild boar served by a Hungarian chef. I mean, where else would you get it?

I have a sense, too, that my journeys home to Clare might take a hell of a lot longer in future."Lunch was a surreal experience in nearby Dinocafe in Castletownroche, where a former Garda barracks has been turned into a regular café, and not so regular dinosaur museum

WHEREBallyhoura Country is on the borders of counties Limerick, Tipperary and Cork. It is named after the region's Ballyhoura Mountains. It's 30 minutes from Limerick city, one hour from Cork and under three hours from Dublin. For tourist information, tel 063-91300 or see ballyhouracountry.com.

WHAT TO DORenowned for its walking trails, including the Canon Sheehan walk in Glenanaar, and the Keale River walk from Ballyorgan to Darragh, through native oak wood and near a local river.

Road bowling takes place every Friday night on the Castletownroche road out of Doneraile. The season began in May, runs during the summer and involves the throwing of a 28oz ball along country roads. See roadbowling.com.

Crossroads dancing runs every Sunday night in Ballinvreena on the Garyspillane to Killock road. A stage is set up at the rear of Davies Cottage, from 8pm to 10pm, till September (see ballinvreena.ie). Kings Yard in the Galty Mountains is the start point for many great walks. It has camping facilities and is ideal for a picnic, with tea and coffee facilities provided. See kingsyard.wordpress.com.

WHERE TO EATO'Callaghans Deli, Mitchelstown. This family delicatessen has been on the go since 1988 and specialises in freshly baked bread and savory treats. There's also a café for lunch and breakfast. Tel 025-24657 or see ocallaghans.ie.

Dinocafe, Castletownroche. Café food in an imaginative setting. Tel 022-26970 or see dinocafe.com.

Deebert House Hotel, Kilmallock. The Cloister Restaurant in this family-owned hotel is full of local cuisine. Packages include a mix of accommodation, outdoor pursuits and food. See deeberthousehotel.com or tel 063-32100.

WHERE TO STAYCreagh House, Doneraile. Restored townhouse. Rooms are €100-€120pps. Tel 022-24433 or see creaghhouse.ie.

Ballinwillin House, Mitchelstown. Combines old and new. Walk the farm or wine tasting in the cellars. The accommodation is high quality and available on a full board or self-catering basis. Tel 086-2561578 or ballinwillinhouse.com.