Riding high in Hawaii

While surfing is never far away on O'ahu, Hawaii's most populous island is a fascinating melting pot of ethnicities and cultures, writes MOLLY McCLOSKEY

I FLEW INTO O’ahu three hours before midnight on December 31st. The fireworks had begun, and all across the island – a sprinkling of lights surrounded by thousands of miles of black Pacific – there were flashes, sparks, spirals of colour unfurling across the sky. It looked like O’ahu was quietly and beautifully exploding.

Known as the Gathering Place, Hawaii’s most populous island is a melting pot of ethnicities and cultures, and a fascinating melange of histories, interests and sometimes conflicting agendas. The number of surf shops seems rivalled only by the number of small churches, evidence of the arrival of missionaries in the 19th century. The Mormons own and run the Polynesian Cultural Center.

There is a palace – a former monarchy, Hawaii is home to the only royal residence in the US. There are ancient, sacred sites of worship. The American military sits on large chunks of the island, and Hollywood has made frequent use of it (Lost was filmed here, as were Jurasssic Park, From Here to Eternity and many more). It is Barack Obama’s birthplace, but it is also the site of contested statehood; you will see the odd hand-painted sign calling for the restoration of Hawaiian sovereignty.

The first settlers to the Hawaiian islands likely arrived about AD 800 or 900, part of an ongoing migration into the Pacific. By the time the first Europeans came to the islands in 1778, a highly organised, self-sufficient social system was in place. The Hawaiian islands were unified in 1810 under King Kamehameha I. For almost 70 years, the US extended full diplomatic recognition to the sovereign Hawaiian government.

Then, in 1893, the US minister to Hawaii, without the approval of the US president or the congress, conspired to overthrow Hawaii’s government. The euphemistically titled Committee of Safety (representing US and European sugar planters, descendants of missionaries, and financiers) deposed the Hawaiian monarchy and proclaimed a provisional government. Imprisoned, under protest, and attempting to avoid further bloodshed, Queen Liliuokalani yielded authority.

Almost two million acres of crown, government and public lands were ceded to the US without compensation. One hundred years later, the US congress issued a formal apology for the “illegal overthrow of the Kingdom of Hawaii” – taking care, however, to stipulate that the resolution could not serve as the basis of any claims against the US government.

The volcanic island of O’ahu sits at 21 degrees latitude. Trade winds keep temperatures ideal – the average is 24 degrees. It is stunningly beautiful, and you can view O’ahu and its surroundings from horseback, helicopter, hiking trail, submarine, snorkel mask, surfboard, parasail, rental car or bicycle.

It all begins in Waikiki, the south shore neighbourhood of Honolulu, where international flights land. If you’ve come from Ireland, you will want to warm your bones and get your circulation going again. A good place to start is Diamond Head, the volcanic crater that dominates the skyline east of Waikiki. Make the 1.3km hike to the summit for sweeping views of the coastline, or simply settle on the wall along Diamond Head Road, with the crater looming behind you and the surfers far below.

Continue east on the coast road to Hanauma Bay Nature Preserve, a designated marine life conservation district, where the snorkelling is among the best on the island. (Always check with the locals and read any signs posted on O’ahu’s beaches, as the currents, waves and rocks can make for dangerous swimming.)

Or you could opt for a combination tour, as my travel companion and I did. We took an all-day outing with Bike Hawaii, a company that offers bike, hike, sail, snorkel and kayak combinations. After a gorgeous (and gentle) two-hour hike through a rain forest in the Manoa Valley, we were taken 600m up into the Ko’olau mountains, from where we cycled the 8km back down to sea level. After lunch, we sailed out into the waters off Waikiki, where we snorkelled with green sea turtles – a protected species.

THE FOLLOWING morning, we surfed. Kiosks line the beach offering lessons and every hotel can arrange them, but I can vouch for Jojo at Gone Surfing Hawaii. After a brief instruction on land, she had us out in the water and catching waves within minutes. Her colleague, Greg, followed on his board with a video camera; he incorporates footage of surfing with shots of the island and offers customers a unique (and hopefully not too embarrassing) holiday DVD.

There are sites of cultural and historical interest well worth visiting in Honolulu, too. Chinatown, with its abundant produce markets, numerous family-run restaurants and eclectic shops (try Guan Hua on North King Street) is best during the day or on the first Friday of every month, when art galleries open their doors in the early evening, and you may stumble on a block party, wine tasting or outdoor film screening.

Hawaiian history is concentrated in downtown Honolulu. Opulent Iolani Palace was once the official royal residence and the site of Queen Liliuokalani’s imprisonment when she abdicated her throne.

Bishop Museum, which houses a huge array of artefacts, documents and photographs about Hawaii and other Pacific island cultures, is the principal natural and cultural history museum in the Pacific.

For military history, go to Pearl Harbor. The Japanese attack on US forces in the harbour in 1941 resulted in 2,341 American military and 49 civilian deaths and brought the US into the second World War. The centrepiece of the visitor centre is the USS Arizona Memorial – a stark white structure spanning the submerged battleship, sections of which are visible just beneath the water’s surface.

Once you’ve had your fill of the city, a good route out of the noise and bustle is via the Pali Highway, a stunning drive across the southern end of the Ko’olau mountain range, which brings you to the rustic but upmarket town of Kailua on O’ahu’s windward side. Kailua is one of Obama’s hang-outs when he comes to the island, but it is also a wind and kite surfing paradise. You can watch from the white sands of one of O’ahu’s best beaches or you can participate. We opted for the latter, and got lessons and equipment from Kailua Sailboards Kayaks.

From Kailua, continue up the east side of the island, skirting the fabulous Ko’olau range, to the North Shore. You’ll reach the Polynesian Cultural Center, a 42-acre theme park which features seven Polynesian villages (Fiji, Hawaii, Samoa, Tahiti, Tonga, New Zealand and Easter Island are represented), a luau (a feast with food, music and hula dancing), Tahitian cooking, an elaborate evening stage show and various “lifestyle encounters”. Imagine an expanded, interactive Riverdance.

Continue along the Kamehameha Highway to O’ahu’s famed North Shore, which contains the planet’s highest concentration of world-class surfing spots. Small beach towns nestle along the shore and offer lovely spots from which to watch the surf. Historic Hale’iwa is the hub. Try the Shark’s Cove Grill or Ted’s Bakery for goodies, or stop at one of the shrimp trucks for fresh seafood. Also on the North Shore is Waimea Valley. The domain of the island’s high priests for more than 600 years, the valley comprises 1,875 acres of botanical gardens, rare and endangered plant and bird species, Waimea Falls, and numerous cultural and historic sites.

The leeward, west side of O’ahu is quieter still – at least in terms of tourists. Kaena Point, the island’s western tip, was the site of the highest surf ever recorded off O’ahu, with waves in excess of 15m; the island’s highest peak – Mount Ka’ala (1,227m) – is part of the Wai’anae Range, which dominates the leeward landscape. Come here for white sands, a taste of local O’ahu, and the surf at Makaha. Wherever you are on O’ahu, you can hardly go wrong.

Where to stay and what to do on O'ahu

Where to stay

* Accommodation in Waikiki ranges from hostels at $30 (€22) per night to suites at the Trump for more than $1,000 (€747). In between are many hotels in the $150-$250 (€112-€187) per night range.

* We stayed at Hotel Renew, a recently refurbished boutique hotel where the staff are friendly and knowledgeable, and offer the kind of personal attention and assistance boutique hotels pride themselves on.

* With its sleek minimalism and relatively small size, Hotel Renew is a nice alternative to the towering high-rises and chains on Waikiki. Rooms from $180 (€134) a night, including generous breakfast. See hotelrenew.com.

* On the North Shore, there are self-contained units at Turtle Bay Condos (see turtlebaycondos.com), numerous BBs, and private house rentals. The area is pleasantly devoid of high-rises.

* Turtle Bay Resort (see turtlebayresort.com) sits on more than 800 acres of ground. The six-storey hotel has 443 rooms, villas and cottages, and offers everything from elaborate spa treatments to helicopter rides to 19km of gorgeous oceanfront hiking trails. A world unto itself. Rooms from $209 (€156) a night, not including breakfast.

* On the west side of the island is Makaha Resort and Golf Club (makaharesort.com). Nestled at the foot of Wai’anae Range, Makaha is a lovely, peaceful setting on the quieter side of the island, about two miles from the beach. Good value, with rooms from $84 (€63) a night.

Surfing

Try Jojo at gonesurfinghawaii.com. The company also offers day tours of the island that include surfing lessons. If you just want to watch, ask a local where the surf is good that day. Until February 28th, the world’s top big wave riders are on call for the Quiksilver Big Wave International. When wave face heights at Waimea Bay exceed 12 metres, surfers hightail it to O’ahu for the one-day only event.

Hiking/biking/swimming

See hawaiitrails.org for trail information. Most hotels will provide or rent snorkelling gear. The waters are fabulous, but stick to the bays and safe areas. Alternatively, avail of an adventure combination, and see the island from four different angles in a day. See bikehawaii.com.

Polynesian culture

The Polynesian Cultural Center offers the most extensive of the cultural shows, but there are a number of places that stage luaus (feasts), with traditional island food and activities. Ask at your hotel for the best of what is nearby.

Shopping

High-end shopping is on Kalakaua Avenue, home of Tiffany, Cartier and Gucci. Don’t miss Bailey’s Antiques and Aloha Shirts on Kapahulu Avenue, which sells new and vintage Hawaiian shirts ranging from $3.99 (€3) to $800 (€597), as well as quirky vintage collectibles.

There are numerous farmers’ markets on the island and a large market and swap meet at Aloha Stadium.

The North Shore Marketplace features locally owned eateries and shops selling custom-made goods, local art, surfing gear and more.

Dining

Waikiki and Honolulu have just about everything. The large Japanese population means there are some excellent Japanese restaurants. For romantic dinners, try John Dominis on the waterfront or Taormina, or take a sunset dinner cruise.

For traditional Hawaiian food, there is Ono on Kapahulu or Helena’s on School Street.

Pick up a copy of the free magazine This Week, which gives a good overview of the island’s attractions, plus discount offers on upcoming events.