Staying safe in danger zones

Although Caracas has a reputation as being risky for tourists, the average traveller who is cautious shouldn't have a problem, writes WILL BURTON

WHAT ARE the first thoughts that come to mind when people talk of capital cities such as Rio de Janero, San Salvador or Caracas? Usually, it is the high crime and murder rate accompanied by an infamous reputation for being dangerous for tourists.

The capital of Venezuela, Caracas, reportedly has a higher murder rate than Rio de Janero, even though Rio de Janero is in the headlines more frequently. Accounts of armed criminal gangs “operating with impunity throughout the urban areas” may well be true, but the traveller who is cautious shouldn’t have a problem.

After reading accounts of Caracas and hearing travellers’ stories involving muggings and attacks, my girlfriend and I arrived by bus into central Caracas. A word of warning if you are a frugal backpacker, many of the cheaper hotels are in areas which are notoriously dangerous after dark. We opted for the more affluent area of Altamira, where we quickly found a medley of restaurants and bars which were within walking distance from our hotel.

Venezuelan cuisine was available, alongside Chinese and Italian restaurants which all served the famous Polar beer that was a delight to drink in the evening heat. The beer comes in small bottles due to the intense heat which lingers long into the night. We were sure not to stay too late, and to walk the most direct and busy way home, always carrying just enough cash for dinner and a photocopy of our passports in case we were stopped by the police.

Our days were spent exploring the colonial squares and history and culture museums, and catching the latest World Cup game on big-screen televisions in the numerous parks dotted around Caracas. Even in the tourist areas of Caracas, international travellers are a rare sight. There were domestic tourists, but European tourists certainly stood out.

From the Plaza Bolivar to the anti-American graffiti on numerous street walls, the city was captivating. Socialist slogans adorn billboards alongside the samba and salsa beats from the cafes and bars making for a unique experience.

A particular piece of graffiti that caught my eye involved Barack Obama in a Father Christmas suit in front of Venezuelan colours, delivering cruise missiles to various countries. If you are like myself and follow politics, Venezuela is a delectable country.

Regardless of your political beliefs, or where you place yourself on the political spectrum the image and persona of Hugo Chavez, the president of Venezuela, is unavoidable. Not surprisingly, one of the state-owned media companies aired a speech by Chavez while we were on a long distance bus journey.

In my broken Spanish I could decipher that the 30-minute radio speech was to praise the under-17 softball team in a recent competition in the United States.

I do not doubt for one second that the softball team didn’t deserve such praise; however, could we really expect Brian Cowen to laud the Irish under-17 soccer team at this year’s World Cup in Trinidad and Tobago for 30 minutes?

This was an intriguing analogy between Ireland and the young socialist state of Venezuela. From the older gentlemen donning a red T-shirt with Chavez’s face emblazoned on it, or a small child with a Venezuelan baseball cap, the passion for the president is highly evident among the people.

Caracas is a capital city which has to be experienced in a responsible way. If you enjoy museums and wandering around colonial squares in the tourist areas, Caracas is an intriguing metropolis in a state of transition.

Have your spider sense about you, and do not be tempted to find that “one last drink” in the evening. Do not be put off by the headlines that some cities and countries can produce. Be responsible, but find out for yourself.