Strange sights in Castlefreke

From Gothic ruins to stunning seascapes and secluded forest, a walk around Castlefreke in west Cork has it all, writes LORRAINE COURTNEY

FEW PLACES can rival west Cork’s stupendous natural beauty. Venture to secluded Castlefreke, near Rosscarbery, for woods, glorious stretches of sand pounded by Atlantic rollers and a ruin or two.

You start out at the car park at the western end of Long Strand. Soon you are passing by Lough Rahavarrig’s shallow waters and reed beds. Turning inland take the right branch of the “Y” and you find yourself walking beneath tall Monterey pines and later still following a winding trail beneath high, shadowy spruce. This scene is always transfixing, fuzzy with woodland and back lit with bluebells in spring. Osier tree shells sprout thick mosses and polypody ferns.

Through the trees you will glimpse the ivy-clad ramparts of Rathbarry Castle, built on the site of an ancient fort. A stone crest over the door bears the inscription “The Right Hon. Ld. Carbery 1857”. You might also cross the meadow to Rathbarry church and graveyard. The ruined hulk dates to 1825 and its striking tower has outlandish, Rococo chimneys at each corner. The walls are inlaid with mosaics, with the legend “Until He Comes” written in gaudy shards.

Back on the main path continue along a gravelled lane running through felled forest. As you emerge onto the tarred estate road, the pseudo-medieval castellated mansion of Castle Freke appears to your left. It was rebuilt in 1870 on the site of a 15th century tower house and appears to have sprung straight from the pages of Gothic potboiler The Mysteries of Udolpho. Lady Mary Carbery (1867-1949) kept an intriguing diary of her life and love for the castle. She also records the volatile weather patterns of this coastline like the day when “there raged a green and purple storm, with snatches of sun through scudding rags of clouds”.

Her son John succeeded to the title of Lord Carbery in 1898. He was to become the archetypal eccentric lord, noted for his three wives, his dramatic aeroplane displays over Rathbarry village and his republican sympathies.

He later renounced his title, abandoned these lands and relocated to Kenya where he ran a coffee plantation. The castle is currently being restored by a returned scion of the dynasty and a modern mansion is emerging from its ruins.

Follow the flinty driveway until you reach the cut-stone gate lodge and then cross over the main road. Climb over the wooden stile and pick your way along the forestry track. After a mile, the path reaches the shores of Kilkeran Lake, a natural lagoon. Nature in showman mood is always an attraction and this moody, muddy estuary is prime birdwatching territory, so don’t forget the binoculars.

You then go over the marram-clad dunes and come out on Long Strand’s shingle and sands. Anyone who appreciates big skies and the melancholy cries of curlew, lapwing and oystercatcher will love this place. In summer, the scene is flushed purple with sea lavender, while on the shingle snowy drifts of white sea campion bloom.

When it was built, back in 1878, the lighthouse out on Galley Head was the world’s brightest coastal light, plunging its glow into a tempestuous sea. Apparently this is all down to one Turkish sultan who was staying at Castle Freke and demanded that he be able to see its beam at all times during his visit. After electrification it was dimmed for a while but locals, missing its glow, asked for it to be restored.

As you traverse the long curve of Long Strand, you could pick up mussels and whelks for tea, before making your way back to the start point. Variety is the spice of this delectable walk.

Castlefreke walk

MAPOrdnance Survey Discovery Series, Sheet 89.

START/FINISHLong Strand car park. Grid ref: 323 346.

GET THERELong Strand is a 15-minute drive from Clonakilty via the village of Rathbarry.

TIMETwo to three hours.

DISTANCE9km.

SUITABILITYA leisurely walk suitable for all.

FOOD/ACCOMMODATIONNearby Rosscarbery for pubs, restaurants and shops. Pilgrim's Rest (6 South Sq, 023-8831796) is a lovely cafe.