Take-off

IT HAD TO HAPPEN. After years of being bullied by airlines, enduring their increasingly strident rules and regulations, not forgetting those greedy little charges and grab-all taxes, the snappy attitudes of cabin crews with their “I’m busy don’t bother me” approaches, the horrible food, the cramped seats, the all eyes upon you should you venture to the toilet, and let us not forget the Kafkaesque world of the modern airport, the delays, all that waiting.

Life in Ireland offers no chance of escape by road. Swimming is an option, but if you’re that good, you will be contemplating the Olympics. You could check out hot air balloons. Yet, fear not there is still a chance of dignified travel – go by ferry. I did. Recently I needed to go to Oxford and rather than face the multiple exploitations of airport and airline, travelled to Holyhead by Stena Line, rented a car, drove to Oxford and back, so enjoying the relaxed Stena daytime experience both ways, that within three weeks and en route to Stratford-upon-Avon, I pleaded ferry, not air. This time I went by night, even better. No traffic on the way to Dublin port and the same friendly staff, no tension, no triumphant shrieks of “but you are one kilo over, I will have to charge you the value of your home!” I also brought my own car, much better than renting one, but that’s another story.

The ferry sailed, on time at 1.15am. It was quiet. Whether by day or night, there is nothing quite like the slow leave-taking from a port, it is always emotional, rather romantic, it was the middle of the night and I am now a confirmed ferry person, rejecting the cynical circus that surrounds airlines. I sighed happily, looking out at the sea. No one was telling me to strap myself in, I didn’t have to sit passively while a trolley of over-priced fodder wheeled by. Farewell airlines.

There are various screens located in the lounges and the alternative of sleep in a cabin. It was a calm crossing, the moon shone on the water. The night ferry arrived at 4.45am. The passengers are divided between foot and car. Disembarking is orderly and again that word, relaxed. The staff are friendly; whether it is early afternoon, or late at night, or dawn, the Stena staff alone would convert the tourist with time, or even, the business person, logistics allowing, to ferry travel. Above all though, this is the way to plan the family holiday.

It is an adventure for children as well as the family pet. The day-time experience comes complete with good food, breakfast and lunches, better than any airport and cheaper.

Driving off into the early morning at Holyhead, one of my dogs at my side, I felt human, ready to face the day instead of my habitual state of mentally composing a letter of complaint to airline customer service. True, early morning, no restaurants are open, that is not a problem. Because you have your car, you also have supplies with you. Life is so easy; I have regained my love of travelling. Most of all I have discovered the magic of Wales and am already plotting further trips. On that early morning we pulled in at a little beach, Ashley the dog investigated while the watching sheep gazed at us. I headed for Conwy Castle, a mighty fortress constructed between 1283 and 1289 by Edward I. With its eight round towers it stands high against a backdrop of Snowdonia. It was too early to gain admission but this is the castle with which to begin a tour of historic Wales. I am going back, again with my car, my dogs, my dignity and Stena lines.We are an island people. Ferry travel is liberating. There is nothing to lose except your stress.