Travelwriter, Kenya: "They say Africa changes you"

[This story is one of ten shortlisted in the 2015 Irish Times Amateur Travel Writer competition]

Sitting on a long-drop toilet, with a complimentary copy of National Geographic and a sun-drenched view of the vast Kenyan savannah, I had fulfilled my quest for a sustainable holiday. I had stumbled across the Maji Moto EcoCamp.

Maji Moto translates as ‘hot water’. The camp is located on a natural hot spring and is discretely hidden from the world around it. Run by a local Massai chief, Sankale Ole Ntutu, the camp is a community-based project that offers eco-friendly facilities and helps sustain the local community.

Our skilful Kenyan driver, Sam, proved his worth by navigating the rocky road to the camp. This journey is not for the faint-hearted, or those prone to travel sickness. We drove for hours on the opposite side of the road to dodge the many crater-like potholes and when necessary, a swift swerve was experienced to give way to the oncoming traffic. Travelling along the open savannah we were on the look out for our point of reference “a sign under the tree for the local school”. This was our cue to turn left. To say the sign was discrete is an understatement.

We were informed that the Massai “will send one of our people down to the road to meet you and show you the direction to the camp”. My Uncle, who had spent many years in Kenya, was somewhat sceptical of the Massai-way, but low and behold in the far distance we spotted a red shadow strutting its stuff down the mountain. It was Chief Sankale. His muscular frame and red cape were a striking contrast to the barren land around him. His beaming smile was an instant introduction to Massai hospitality. He hopped into our van, put on his sunshades and directed us to the camp.

We slept in eco-friendly tents surrounded by aloe plants, acacia and euphorbia trees. The sun heated the water, and a drawstring with an overhead bucket operated the shower. After dinner, Sankale lit a fire and we sat with his team of merry warriors discussing many worldly matters. Chatting about the economic situation in Ireland, it was Sankale’s simple approach to such matters that struck us most. He questioned why anyone would put their money in a bank when they cannot see it or touch it. His approach to this problem: “buy a cow and you can watch your money grow day by day”.

Later that evening we took a drive to see some nocturnal activity. This adventure was to become the most memorable experience of our trip. In the moon-lit savannah, we saw aardvark, bushbabies, dik-dik, and Thomson gazelle but the pièce de résistance was Sankale’s outdoor Jacuzzi: a hot water natural spring. As we jumped in and enjoyed the warmth, we felt a wave of togetherness. Suddenly we heard singing coming from the bushes and out popped a local farmer on his merry way home. He leaped into the spring and serenaded us with his rendition of the Swahili song ‘Malaika’.

That night we not only experienced the Massai cordiality but also a way of life that has been forgotten. It is impossible to share these authentic experiences and not be moved by them in some way. They say Africa changes you and, if not, it leaves an indelible impression in your mind. As the night drew to a close, we were reflective of what we had encountered, we had shared this unique, sustainable experience in a magical part of the world, with truly fantastic people under the watchful eye of the Kenyan night sky.