Your Wellness

Do those tiny, expensive jars of eye cream actually work for wrinkles?

While some people don’t care about their eye wrinkles, others may want to slow down the ageing process

An eye cream in New York, July 13, 2022. Look for a few key ingredients in skin care products if you want to deal with wrinkles Ñ but no product will keep your face crease free. (Eric Helgas/The New York Times)

Mon Aug 1 2022 - 05:15

Q: Does eye cream really prevent wrinkles?

A: Whether it’s from ageing, sun exposure, smoking or repetitive squinting, smiling, laughing or frowning, nobody is immune to the skin creases and fine lines that come with age. And the area around the eyes is particularly susceptible to such changes. “The skin under and around the eyes is delicate and thinner,” says Dr Sara Perkins, an assistant professor of dermatology at the Yale University School of Medicine in the US. “It is a place where wrinkling and lines can show up more prominently than other areas of the skin.”

While some people don’t care much about their eye wrinkles, others may want to slow down that ageing process and keep their skin looking younger. This may lead them to wonder: Are those tiny, expensive jars of eye cream worth it? Here’s what the experts say.

Q: Can eye cream or other facial skin care products help with wrinkles?

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A: Perkins and Dr Zakia Rahman, a clinical professor of dermatology at Stanford University, says there is evidence that eye creams – and even regular facial moisturisers – can help prevent and repair wrinkles. But there’s one big caveat: They must contain some key active ingredients like retinols or vitamin C.

“When we’re talking about the efficacy of eye creams, it’s not fair to lump all eye creams together,” Dr Perkins says. “Because some of them may just be glorified moisturisers without any biologically active ingredients in them.”

Retinols and prescription retinoids are closely related chemical compounds derived from vitamin A. Retinoids are typically prescription strength, while retinols are generally found in over-the-counter products. These substances can increase cell turnover, prevent collagen breakdown, produce new collagen and create more hyaluronic acid (a substance the body produces naturally that helps keep the skin hydrated). Experts say there is good evidence that these compounds can help prevent and improve wrinkling. “Every dermatologist I know, myself included, uses these as part of their skin care regimen,” Dr Rahman says.

The two experts noted that both retinols and retinoids – but particularly retinoids, which are more potent – can cause skin irritation, though that should diminish over time. If you’re buying an over-the-counter product with retinol, dr Perkins recommends looking for one with at least 0.25 per cent to 1 per cent retinol.

Dr Perkins also cautioned that these products can worsen sunburns, so she recommends applying them at night and wearing sun cream during the day. (She also mentions that they are made less effective when exposed to sunlight.) Both experts emphasise that if you’re pregnant, you should not use products with retinol or retinoid.

Look for a few key ingredients in skin care products if you want to deal with wrinkles, but no product will keep your face crease free. Photograph: Eric Helgas/The New York Times

There’s also moderate evidence that topical vitamin C helps to inhibit and repair wrinkles. “It’s a potent antioxidant,” Dr Rahman says, which means vitamin C neutralises harmful molecules called free radicals that can damage the skin. It also helps with collagen production, she says. However, Dr Perkins notes that while there is “compelling evidence” that topical vitamin C helps with wrinkles, the data is more robust for retinols and retinoids. If you’re choosing between the two, both experts recommend using a retinol or retinoid rather than a topical vitamin C. And as with retinols and retinoids, there is a potential that vitamin C could cause skin irritation.

The experts also say that there is evidence that skin care products containing hyaluronic acid may improve the appearance of the skin. This ingredient can plump the skin, giving it a more youthful look. However, they both note that these effects were only temporary. “There is data showing that using hyaluronic acid will improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles,” Dr Perkins says. But “it’s working in a different way, by bringing water into the skin as opposed to working on a molecular level” as the other active ingredients mentioned above do.

Q: Are eye creams superior to regular facial moisturisers for wrinkle prevention or repair?

A: “Eye cream as a category is one of my biggest pet peeves,” Dr Perkins says, adding that the ingredients in eye creams are generally the same as those found in facial moisturisers.

Dr Rahman agrees. Eye creams may be a bit thicker or have a lower strength of active ingredients compared with other facial skin care products, since they’re tailored for the sensitive eyelid skin. But overall, “they tend to cost much more per ounce than regular moisturisers used for the face, and they often don’t have ingredients that are much different,” Dr Rahman says. Personally, she uses regular facial moisturiser for the skin around her eyes.

Q: So is eye cream worth it?

A: Unless you prefer to use an eye cream, a regular facial moisturiser that contains the key active ingredients mentioned above should work the same on wrinkles. If you buy an eye cream with those ingredients, you’re probably just paying more money for less product that has similar benefits. But with any of these skin care products, you also shouldn’t expect a miracle, and the results can take time. The effects “take months, not days,” Dr Rahman says.

As for the best eye wrinkle prevention method? Both experts unequivocally agree: Sun protection is key. – This article originally appeared in The New York Times.