On Beauty with Aisling McDermott: the easy way to beat blackheads with salicylic acid

There are few things more annoying than bumps under the surface of the skin that will not shift, and it is especially maddening if you get them despite cleansing nightly and exfoliating regularly. I’m talking about the blackheads that seem to have lived on your nose for as long as you can remember; the blocked pores that make-up only accentuates; and the rough skin on your chin.

In a perfect world, dead skin cells would slither off like the skin of a snake. But a lot of them glue themselves to new skin and plug up our pores. If follicles get blocked with dead skin and excess oil, they form blackheads. Quite often no matter how many times they are squeezed they will continue to fill up. Our first step is to get rid of the gunk and the second is to keep it from filling up again.

One of the simplest ways to dissolve the gunk is to use a regular dose of BHA (beta hydroxy acid). There are loads of different AHAs around, such as lactic and glycolic acids, but salicylic acid is the only BHA. While AHAs are water-based and work on the surface of skin, salicylic acid goes one step further: it also gets in underneath the pores to shift the blockage from the inside. It’s very difficult for any ingredient to penetrate the skin’s barrier (the skin is, after all, designed to keep things out and will repel most ingredients). Salicylic acid is able to dive right in there because it is oil-soluble and better able to penetrate oil-filled pores. Regular use will stop the pores from refilling, too.

Bioré Complexion Clearing Blemish Fighting Ice Cleanser, which has 2 per cent salicylic acid, will work without harshness, and the price point is perfect for the younger market. Nip+Fab Dragon's Blood Fix Pads provide a quick and easy fix, and, although some Clinique toners can be quite harsh, Gentle Clarifying Lotion (the lavender-coloured one) is great for this type of exfoliation. If you want to bring in the big guns, a face mask infused with salicylic will work wonders; use Origins Out of Trouble 10 Minute Mask to Rescue Problem Skin to kickstart a declogging regime. Lots of moisturisers also contain the magic salicylic; Olay Total Effects 7-in-1 Anti-Ageing Blemish Care Moisturiser is one for the over 35s.

Corn plasters such as Compeed will work in a crisis, and wipes for ingrown hairs will also dissolve spots and blackheads. Waxperts or Bliss ingrown hair wipes work just as well on your face.

Foundations or BB creams containing salicylic acid can continue to work to keep pores clear outside the cleansing cycle. Maybelline Foundation Dream Pure BB Cream and Essence Pure Skin Anti-spot Mousse Make-up are two that have anti-bacterial and pore-unclogging properties.

[ amcdermott@irishtimes.com ]