Lace luxe

FASHION: DEIRDRE McQUILLANlikes the current take on lace

WHAT OTHER FABRIC conceals as much as it reveals? What other fabric has both erotic and ecclesiastical associations? The continuing pulling power and allure of lace explains its migration from the boudoir into the fresh air of modern-day fashion. It was all over the red carpet this summer, is in vogue again this winter, and is heading for another renaissance next spring. International catwalks have designers experimenting with everything from 3D lace to metallic, leather, plastic, even painted variations. Dainty? Forget it. The high street has been sharp on the uptake.

Lace can be hard and crunchy or soft and feminine. Black lace in particular has always been a favourite of designers from Balenciaga and Yves St Laurent to current leaders such as Lanvin, Marc Jacobs and Chanel. Lanvin and Dolce Gabbana make it look sexy with black tuxedos, Marc Jacobs gives lace sheaths a cool, modern urbanity in offbeat colours, while Chanel layers it over net with practised elegance. Others, such as Celine, cut leather to look like lace, while Erdem Moralioglu, beloved of hip Londoners, says he rebels with lace and tulle.

Lace is being worn in many ways that set trends. Girls Aloud singer Sarah Harding has sported a black lace tee that added a sassy touch to a black ensemble; Rihanna’s black lace gloves gave a stylish finishing edge to a ladylike black sheath, while the fearless Lady Gaga’s top-to-toe black lace body suit was predictably outré. Another lace fan, fashion individualist Daphne Guinness wears regency-style ruffles in a dandyish but disciplined way.

Irish designers have always been drawn to this country’s long history of crochet and lacemaking. John Rocha’s inventive manipulation of crochet is a hallmark of his style, and in Paris, Sharon Wauchob has always flirted with it in her characteristic rock chick way, while newcomers such as Natalie Coleman from Carrickmacross, home of traditional handmade lace, likes the contrast between its raunchy and religious associations.

Eilis Boyle’s Spanish background has always informed her approach. “It is second nature for me to use it because of my upbringing, but also because its gives texture and print to my collections which are mostly monochrome,” she says.

When it comes to dressing up, sporty mesh or more ornate guipure or Chantilly lace add glamour and femininity to any outfit. Whether full length or short, lace dresses and skirts demand contrast linings or a careless attitude to transparency. Black remains the most popular choice for winter, although dark colours such as navy or burgundy, which suit the Irish complexion, can also be flattering. A simple, sensual alternative is to choose a dress with inserts of lace, be they in the bodice, neckline or sleeves, or simply overlays. Failing that, accessories such as earrings, shoes or gloves work the trend in less obvious ways and bring a holey show bang up to date.

Product images by PR Shots, proshots.ie