Keep an eye on Hawkes Bay

WINE:MOST WINE-PRODUCING countries would be thrilled if they managed to create one new global success in a decade, and ecstatic if they achieved two. New Zealand has certainly done the former with their fresh aromatic Sauvignon from Marlborough, aped and envied around the world. They followed this up with some of the finest Pinot Noir to be found outside of Burgundy, a classic in the making.

This has all happened in a little more than a decade. But now it appears that they are not satisfied with this, and are setting out to emulate the wines of Bordeaux.

I have written about New Zealand Pinot Noir here before; I rate both Martinborough and Central Otago Pinot very highly. Central Otago in particular makes a wonderfully pure version that is very different to Burgundy, but every bit as good as all bar the very top wines.

This was brought home to me at recent tastings of Pinot Noir from two producers, Craggy Range and Felton Road, among the most highly rated names in New Zealand.

Pinot Noir is one thing, but it was always argued that New Zealand was too cool to ripen most other red grapes. A decade ago, much New Zealand Cabernet and Merlot was distinctly lacklustre, light and often herbaceous.

There were a few success stories – such as Esk Valley in Hawkes Bay. But in the past decade, the Bordeaux varieties have improved out of all recognition. Merlot is more popular as it ripens earlier, but is distinctly unfashionable at the moment. Cabernet Sauvignon doesn’t always ripen fully, but is excellent when it does, as are Cabernet France and Malbec.

The main centre of the attention is Hawkes Bay on the east coast of the North Island. Sheltered from the rains to the west, until recently this was known as Chardonnay country in New Zealand. Much of it is still planted with that variety.

The most highly regarded piece of land is Gimblett Gravels, a large, fairly innocuous piece of flat gravel (as is much of the Médoc). Virtually all of this was bought up and planted in the late 1990s.

The soil, once a river bed, is more than 80 per cent pebbles and stones in places, providing good drainage and increased soil temperatures at night. It seems ideally suited to both Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon.

I have a few reservations; some of the wines have been aged in new oak, which shows through quite strongly when young. I find that some still have a slightly confected flavour, but that could be a personal prejudice. I still enjoy the wine greatly, and would happily put them up against all but the very best in Bordeaux.

Lest you think the Kiwis are resting on their laurels, the same area of Hawkes Bay is now starting to produce some very classy cool-climate Syrah. Look out for Bilancia, Esk Valley and Craggy Range in your local shop. It could well be the next big thing.

BOTTLES OF THE WEEK

Villa Maria Private Bin Merlot/Cabernet Sauvignon 2006, Hawkes Bay, 13.5%, €12.49The lightest and most Bordeaux-like of all four, with brambly red fruits, and an easy finish. Best with white meats. Stockists: Bradley's, Cork; McHugh's, Kilbarrack and Artane; SuperValu and Centra stores nationwide.

Esk Valley Merlot/Cabernet Sauvignon/ Malbec 2005 Gimblett Gravels, Hawkes Bay, 13.5%, €17.99Winemaker Gordon Russell was making tasty reds in Hawkes Bay long before it was fashionable, and remains one of the best producers. In recent years, the wines seem to have taken on a bit more flesh, but they still retain a lovely delicacy. This was delicious before and during dinner; wonderful pure damson and loganberry fruits on nose and palate, with a supple finish. Stockists: Select O'Brien's off licences, including Dún Laoghaire, Blackrock and Greystones; The Ice Box, Balbriggan; Next Door, Enfield, Co Meath; Harvest, Galway.

Newton Forrest Cornerstone Cabernet/ Merlot/Malbec 2006, Hawkes Bay, 14%, €24.25I had not come across this wine before, but will certainly keep an eye out in the future. Apparently it is listed in a great many restaurants both north and south of the border. Plum and blackberry fruits seasoned with some spicy new oak, and a cool, clean finish. Try it with a rack of lamb. Stockists: James Nicholson, jnwine.com, 1890-667799

Craggy Range Te Kahu Merlot Cabernet 2006, Gimblett Gravels, Hawkes Bay, 13.5%, €31Craggy Range makes an excellent range of single vineyard wines from various parts of New Zealand. This has an enticing nose of blackcurrants and herbs, with beautifully focused pure dark fruits on the palate. The finish is long with a cleansing mineral edge. Stockists: Bin No 9, Clonskeagh; McCabe's, Mount Merrion and Foxrock; Egan's, Portlaoise; Redmond's, Ranelagh.

TWO UNDER €12

Jean-Francois Mérieau Touraine Sauvignon 2009, 12%, €11.99

A very tasty Sauvignon from the Loire Valley, and certainly one to enjoy in the coming months. Youthful perfumed nose, zingy fresh green fruits on the palate with a mouth-watering mineral finish. Spring in a bottle. Stockists: Terroirs, Donnybrook.

Carmenère 35 South, Central Valley 2006, 14%, €9.99

I am not a huge fan of Carmenère, but for those of you who do like it, here is a fine example at a very keen price. A big ripe juicy nose leads on to masses of rich sweet jammy fruit, plenty of spicy oak, and a leafy touch. Very good concentration and length, and streets ahead of several rivals I have also tasted. Stockists: Superquinn, Dunnes Stores, Londis.