Stroll past the many cafes and restaurants that line the canals in the southern French town of Sète and you will notice that most of the diners are enjoying a bottle of Picpoul de Pinet. Often called the Muscadet of the south, this wine is produced in nearby vineyards beside the Étang de Thau, a large lagoon where large quantities of mussels and oysters are farmed. Happily the wine goes perfectly with the shellfish.

By contrast the Ribero del Duero region is in the centre of Spain, miles from the sea. Most of the wines here are rich, full-bodied reds, made from the tempranillo grape (called tinto del país locally). Instead of shellfish the local specialities include hearty herb-scented bean and tomato stews and barbecued lamb and pork.

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Picpoul de Pinet Les Courtelles 2021, €11.50

Light (at 12.5 per cent) and refreshing with succulent pear fruits and a nicely rounded finish. Enjoy on its own, with shellfish or plainly grilled plaice or sea bass.

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Teófilo Reyes Ribero del Duero 2014, €13

A nicely balanced wine with plenty of easy ripe dark fruits, no obvious oak, and a pleasant freshness too. Enjoy this with roast lamb or pork, or a herby-baked bean and tomato casserole.