With its warm sunny climate, ripening grapes in Sicily was never a problem. Finding buyers willing to pay a premium for quality grapes was more challenging. Traditionally, Sicilian wines were destined for bulk blends, vermouths and cheap fortified wines. But times are changing; Sicily now produces some excellent wines – both red and white – using its range of fascinating indigenous grape varieties.
Nero d’Avola is the most widely planted grape variety in Sicily, itself one of the largest wine regions of Italy. It thrives in the hot sunny weather, producing a variety of wine styles. At a time when we all wanted bigger, more powerful wines, growers of Nero d’Avola in Sicily were more than happy to oblige. Most of the wines were 14 per cent abv (alcohol by volume), usually more, with masses of ultra-ripe dark fruits, plenty of oak and layers of tannin too. These robust wines are perfect with winter stews or summer barbecues. However, they can also be overwhelming and lacking in subtlety.
More recently, growers fortunate to have vineyards close to the cooling sea breezes or at altitude have been able to produce lighter, more elegant wines that still have plenty of fruit and concentration. Some even produce rosé and sparkling rosé wines with very attractive, delicate fruits.
The best, most elegant wines seem to come from the limestone soils of the Noto Valley in south-eastern Sicily. One grower I talked to argued that the original home of Nero was not Avola, but neighbouring Pachino. Today, four lighter wines are made from Nero Avola. Look out too for Donnafugatta, Fuedi di Arancia and Tenuta la Favola.
Nero d’Avola 2024, Sicilia,€8.99
Light stewed plum fruits with a rounded tannin-free finish. Pizza, pasta or polpette.
From Aldi
Mandrarossa Nero d’Avola Costadune
13.5%, €17-€18
Medium-bodied with light tannins, plums, dark cherries and a touch of spice. Perfect with pizza, sfincione and tomato-based pasta dishes.
From 1601 Kinsale; Redmonds, D6; Sweeney’s, D3; Baggot Street Wines; Blackrock Cellar; Fire Castle, Kildare.
Zisola Noto Rosso 2021
13%, €28
Medium-bodied with ripe dark fruits, a touch of oak, and a refreshing note. Try it with pasta alla norma.
McHughs off-licence, D5; Avoca; BaRossa Wines, D4; Delgany Cottage; Pinto Wines, D9; Sweeneys D3
Occhipinti Siccagno 2021, IGT Terre Siciliano, Organic
13%,€48.00
Fresh, smooth, pure red fruits with a dusting of earthy tannins. A very seductive wine from one of the legendary producers of the region. Drink alongside firm cheeses, arancini, or caponata.
From Barossa Wines, D4; Redmonds, D6; Le Caveau.ie; L’Atitude51 Shop, Cork.
