Retinoids are perhaps the most effective skincare ingredient on the market. Dermatologist-prescribed retinoid creams are extremely potent and, while noticeably improving fine lines and textural issues, they’re also a recognised and effective acne treatment, minimising redness and scarring.
Their over-the-counter equivalent, retinol, can have the same benefits, but without the strength or unpleasant side effects.
It will give you impressive and visible results, but you’ll need to have patience, apply the product religiously, and keep at it for about three months before you see changes.
Indeed Labs released Retinol Reface (€26.99 from Boots) a couple of years ago, and it's still one of my favourites.
Retinol creams tend to be expensive, and this is the most affordable retinol product I’ve encountered.
It contains two forms of retinol and a peptide that behaves like retinol, smoothing skin texture and improving its appearance.
There are many prohibitively expensive retinol creams on the market. This one is well under €30 and it works. You can’t argue with results.
Retinol is essentially an incredibly active derivative of vitamin A – it unclogs pores, smooths the skin and reduces discolouration by speeding up cell turnover.
With prolonged use, it boosts collagen levels and ultimately thickens the outer layer of the epidermis for plumper, smoother, clearer skin and more resilient skin.
Though it is a fantastic “anti-aging” ingredient, it does also help to smooth sun damage and tackle premature signs of aging like sun spots and fine lines.
Though teen skin doesn’t need retinol, acneic skin gets on very well with it, and it will benefit skin of any age.
Prescription retinoids are well known to cause redness, puffiness, and flaking on first use. I haven’t had a negative experience with over-the-counter retinol creams, which tend to be much milder, apart from some mild tingling and occasional dryness.
If you find your retinol cream does irritate your skin or leave it dry, then perhaps try to phase it into your skincare routine by using it twice or three times a week and increasing use as your skin grows accustomed to it.
You’ll need to apply retinol at night as it can be compromised by direct sunlight. There is major disagreement among dermatologists as to whether retinol sensitises the skin to sunlight, so while they’re sorting that out among themselves, use a daily SPF to be on the safe side.
Retinol products are rich in alcohol – hence the irritation to the skin. Unfortunately, it isn't possible to produce an effective retinol product without alcohol. SkinCeuticals Retinol 0.5 Refining Night Cream with 0.5% pure retinol (€63, www.skinceuticals.co.uk) contains incredibly high-quality retinol and the anti-irritant ingredient bisabolol to counteract retinol's negative effects.
Apply your retinol cream first to a clean face before any other skincare products, and if you feel that your skin needs it, apply an oil afterwards to help counteract any potential dryness.
Don’t skip moisturising after applying retinol products, or you’ll awake to surprisingly dry, tight and possibly slightly red skin.
Retinol involves a commitment to your skin, but you will see the difference.