Drink

Lighter white wines for summer drinking

John Wilson: These fresh, crisp whites are from less mainstream grapes and regions

John Wilson's face
John Wilson
Sat May 23 2020 - 06:00

You may have been reading about the boom in alcohol sales for retailers during lockdown. Despite this, it is very likely that wine sales will actually decrease here and among our European neighbours.

Pau Roca, director of the International Organisation of Vine and Wine (OIV), wrote in an article recently that sales of wine in Europe may drop by up to 35 per cent in volume, and 50 per cent in value this year. Those hardest hit will be tourist destinations such as the Mediterranean resorts and the major tourist city destinations, including Dublin and other parts of Ireland. You could add in cruise ships, too.

According to the trade body Drinks Ireland, the on-trade sector that includes restaurants, hotels and pubs accounts for 55 per cent of our alcohol consumption and that has been completely closed for a lengthy period.

We may not be able to eat out or to travel, but while the good weather continues, we still can enjoy lighter white wines in the comfort of our own homes, or gardens for those lucky enough to have one.

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All of the white wines featured today are 12 per cent alcohol or less, perfect for summer drinking when refreshment is key. None have any oak influence – just pure racy summery green fruits. Light, crisp, dry white wines can be served cooler than other whites, emphasising that zesty acidity.

I find most white wines taste better al fresco, even the very cheap ones, providing they are not too sweet. However, this week I suggest four wines, ranging in price from €17 to €26.

Sauvignon Blanc, Albarino and Pinot Grigio are the current favourite white wine varieties in Ireland, although the first two are often 13 per cent in alcohol or more. I have sung the praises of Muscadet and Soave, two of my own favourite light white wines, often enough, so today I bring you Jacquère, Palomino Fino, Grüner Veltliner, Welschriesling, Muscat and Riesling – mouth-watering, fresh, crisp whites from less mainstream grapes and regions. Please don’t be put off by the unfamiliar names; the Fritz Haag Riesling and the Silice here were among the finest wines I have tasted in recent months.

These are perfect sipping wines, but that doesn’t mean they don’t match with food as well. Most will go well with all kinds of summer salads, dishes featuring courgettes, asparagus, cream cheeses, especially with herbs, as well as onion or tomato tarts. Think of lighter seafood, such as oysters, mussels, sashimi, or grilled sardines and mackerel. I would also include pasta with lots of herbs (including pesto), creamy sauces, mushrooms, baby vegetables, and fresh tomatoes.

Blanco de Hornillos 2018, Callejuela, Jerez
12%, €17
Light, elegant apple fruits, with good acidity and an intriguing saline note on the finish. Drink with sashimi, grilled white fish, soft creamy cheeses with herbs. 
From: 64wine, Glasthule, 64wine.com; Clontarf Wines, D3, Clontarfwines.ie; Green Man Wines, Dublin 6, greenmanwines.ie; Loose Canon, Dublin 2, loosecanon.ie; Sweeneys D3, sweeneysd3.ie; The Fumbally, D8, Thefumbally.ie.

Meinklang Burgenland White 2018, Austria (Biodynamic)
11%, €18.50
Delicious light aromatic bouncy fun fruit-filled white wine. Made for summer sipping. Drink it by itself, with asparagus, peas and other summer vegetables or light pasta dishes.
From: SIYPS.com; Green Man Wines, Dublin 6, greenmanwines.ie; Eleven Deli, Greystones, Elevendeli.ie; Fallon & Byrne, Dublin 2, fallonandbyrne.com; Blackrock Cellar, Blackrock, blackrockcellar.com.

Fritz Haag Riesling Trocken 2018, Mosel 12%, €23
Brisk, bright and scented with perfectly ripe very fine honeyed green apple fruits, lovely concentration and a dry mineral finish. Try it with scallops or crab.
From: La Touche, Greystones, Latouchewines4u.ie; Avoca, Ballsbridge, Avoca.com; Blackrock Cellar, Blackrock, blackrockcellar.com; The Corkscrew, Dublin 2, thecorkscrew.ie; Deveney's, D14, Deveneys.ie; Drinkstore, D7, drinkstore.ie; D-Six Wines, Dublin 6; peggykellys.ie; Grapevine, Dalkey, onthegrapevine.ie; Lotts & Co. D4, Lottsandco.ie; Martin's Off Licence, Dublin 3, martinsofflicence.ie; Nectar Wines, D18, Nectarwines.com; Sweeneys D3, sweeneysd3.ie; Terroirs, Dublin 4, Terroirs.ie; The Vintry, Dublin 6, vintry.ie.

Silice 2018, Maison des Ardoisières, IGP Vin des Allobroges, Savoie (Organic)
12%, €26
Pristine delicate wine with precise crisp citrus and white fruits with a burst of pineapple finishing crisp and bone dry. Would be good with a vegetable quiche, light fish or shellfish dishes.
From: 64wine, Glasthule, 64wine.com; SIYPS.com; Green Man Wines, Dublin 6, greenmanwines.ie; Sheridan's Cheesemongers, Galway.

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