House Rules: on the peculiar popularity of pineapples

They’re commonplace now, but when the fruit first reached these shores they were so expensive that people rented rather than bought them

Copper pineapple from Moss Cottage ... the height of sophistication, in the 1700s
Copper pineapple from Moss Cottage ... the height of sophistication, in the 1700s

To all those who have ever paused to wonder at the proliferation of pineapple-shaped things in home decor shops: this column is for you. I mean, I know it’s a fun shape to make cocktail shakers, napkin rings, measuring cups, serving platters, pencil holders and door knobs out of, but, put simply: why not a banana?

The answer lies back in the mists of history. Christopher Columbus got into pineapples on his second trip to the Americas, when he was hanging out in the Caribbean in 1493. So yummy was the exotic fruit, that locals would hang one outside their homes, to show that strangers were welcome.

Colonial types liked the idea, and pineapples were carved on gateposts, on columns, and even on bed heads – not just as a symbol of hospitality, but also, because the real thing was damned expensive, to demonstrate prestige. Carving a pineapple was considerably cheaper than owning one, which by the 1700s would set you back the equivalent of about €5,800 in today’s money (which makes the €20 copper version from Moss Cottage, seem remarkably good value, moss.ie).

This gave rise to the extraordinary pineapple rental market, where ambitious hosts and hostesses could hire a pineapple for their dinner tables, and then somehow persuade their guests not to dig in (perhaps beguiling them with alcohol), because some richer person was due that pleasure down the line.

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Wealthy types, those who could afford to actually own their very own pineapples, also began to grow them, which involved glasshouses and pineapple pits – fires set against the wall, to heat the inside so that the fussy fruit could flourish.

Those wishing to harness a little of that exotic spirit of hospitality can also find a white ceramic pineapple for €10 at Harvey Norman (harveynorman.ie), and a range by mail order at Anthropologie, where the set of measuring cups, held babushka-doll style in one outer pineapple casing, will set you back €69 (anthropologie.com).

I’m told that pineapples are going out of fashion, which isn’t really a cause for concern if you’ve taken a fancy to these fruity trinkets, as they’ve been stylish stalwarts for more than 500 years. Or you could just stock up on the real thing, currently €1.29 at Tesco (tesco.ie). That represents a saving of €5,798.71 each on their peak price. A bargain.