An insider’s guide to Nice

At one stage the Irish were the second-biggest buyers of property along the Côte d'Azur. While that may no longer apply, we still love the Côte and Nice. It is one of the most welcoming cities in France, with a compact centre and the amazing Baie des Anges at the front. Stroll the promenade and enjoy seaside, city, shopping, cuisine and culture all in one short trip.

L'EssenCiel at the Splendid Hotel, 50 Boulevard Victor Hugo, Tel +334 9316 4100
This was a great find through LaFourchette.com, aka thefork. com, the restaurant reservation service. The rooftop restaurant at the Hotel Splendid is more than splendid on a fine day with views across the Bay of Angels and beyond. Fixed-priced menus from €22-€29 with charming English descriptions of food.

Le Cyliano Cafe, 13 Cours Salaya. Tel +334 9392 4595
Nice's flower market is in the middle of the city's tourist centre at Cours Salaya and it is hard not to be enchanted by the idea of sitting in the surrounding restaurants among the scent of flowers. So what if the Salad Niçoise is a bit more expensive and the escargots massively garlicky, it is the atmosphere you pay for. Le Cyliano, with the sun streaming on it, is as good a choice as any. Service is friendly and helpful and lunch slides by in an amiable aura of Côte de Provence and typical Niçoise fare.

Trattoria de Palais, 7 rue France, tel +334 9388 2007
Nice's past is obvious with the number of good Italian restaurants. You can also mumble through French, Italian and English in the one sentence and no one bats an eyelid. La Trattoria du Palais is less flash and more cash in your pocket. The menu is full of Italian favourites, various pastas and steak done the Italian way, very bleu. The pizzas au feu de bois are excellent and the pizza buffalo with a ball of melting fresh mozzarella, delicious.

Sarao, 7 Promenade des Anglais. Tel +334 9200 5090
Promenade des Anglais was designed for people-watching, and where better to start the day and see the world go by then from a street side cafe. Cups of strong French roast with a nice omelette cannot be beaten in the sunshine – and do order the fried potatoes, they are delicious.

Le Relais Bar at Hotel Negresco, 37 Promenade des Anglais, Tel: +334 9316 6400.
When you visit Le Relais you have to consider that the price of the cocktail also includes not only the fine cocktail nuts and snacks but also the gawking you will do in this pink-domed palace. Opened in 1913 and now a historical monument, you must have your picture taken in the Salon Royal with Napoleon's portrait or in an art deco barber seat. Ooh and aah at the Baccarat chandelier and admire some of the 2,000 works of art. €19-€25 for a cocktail seems good value then.