GO WALK: Scotland's highest mountain is situated in a bigger, wilder version of our southwest and is untroubled by the Irish blight of "Private Property" and "Keep Out" signs, writes JOHN G O'DWYER
WHENEVER I approach Fort William, past the incongruous ribbon development of hotels and BBs despoiling Loch Linnhe’s elegant shoreline, my heart sinks a little into its lonesome waters. And things don’t improve afterwards. A penny-wise and pound-foolish decision to build an ugly coastline dual carriageway has cut off the capital of Scotland’s West Highlands from its best feature – a captivating waterfront.
In reality, however, it’s impossible to be downhearted for long in Fort Bill (as it is known by regular visitors). Ignoring its planning failures I find myself drawn back again and again, not for the nondescript town itself, but rather the surrounding countryside that offers a wilderness lover’s paradise with everything from easy rambles to rocky scrambles. This is “God’s own country” for outdoor enthusiasts – a bigger, wilder version of Ireland’s southwest, which is almost entirely untroubled by the Irish blight of “Private Property” and “Keep Out” signs.
Every year multitudes come to Britain’s self-styled “outdoor capital” in pursuit of the bragging rights for Ben Nevis, the highest mountain on these islands. Given reasonable fitness and favourable weather this can be safely achieved between May and late October, when deep winter snows have receded.
For a first ascent the best advice is to follow the old Victorian pony track that takes the line of least resistance to the summit. This begins opposite Glen Nevis Youth Hostel, which is located about two miles outside Fort William. From here you cross an attractive bridge and follow an amenable track at an easy gradient until it abruptly begins zigzagging heart thumpingly upwards.
As compensation, great views unfold over the majestic Mamore Mountains. After about 90 minutes the slope eases as the route doubles back on itself and you pass by serene Lough Meall an t-Suidhe, which is commonly known as the Halfway Lochan.
Next you cross the Red Burn stream marking the true halfway point of your ascent. Now comes the masochistic bit with the grimly purposeful zigzags resuming through a vegetation-free desert of tediously rough stonefields. Eventually these seemingly interminable zigzags peter out and it’s upwards without further incident to the summit.
Disappointingly, this turns out to be a large, flat boulder field crowned by the almost inevitable cairn and trig point. Less inevitable are the forlorn ruins of an observatory and – believe it or not – rubble from the makeshift hotel that once crowned the summit.
If “Ben” happens to be in a benign weather mood, you will now be well compensated for your initial disappointment as misting into the distance in every direction are jagged peaks arrowing upwards, magnificent conical summits and dramatic, serrated ridges.
If you are now content with your day the best advice is to return to Glen Nevis by your ascent route. However, in snow-free conditions you may wish to explore the mountain further. To do this continue by dropping steeply in approximately a southeast direction to reach a ridge known as the CMD arête before dropping steeply left from the CMD to reach the startlingly different Coire Leis valley.
You now enjoy stunning views as you continue descending beneath the complex cliffs and ridges forming the Ben’s great northeast face. In winter the mountain casts its frosty shadow here to create some of the world’s foremost ice routes where climbing pioneers such as Bonington, Haston and Brown once plied their trade.
Eventually you arrive at the CIC Mountain Hut and follow the Allt a Mhuilinn stream downhill to reach a path that rises diagonally upwards and left. Follow this until it deposits you beside the aforementioned Half Way Lochan from where it’s just a question of retracing your steps downwards to Glen Nevis.
Route Ben Nevis, Scotland
WhenIn summer and autumn climbing Ben Nevis requires nothing more technical than hillwalking skills. Bring boots, day rations, rain gear and protective clothing with good gloves and a hat. Walking poles are also useful.
NavigationA line of cairns reduces, but does not eliminate, navigational difficulties when leaving the summit in mist. You should carry a map and compass and know how to use them, since huge nearby cliffs and treacherous gullies yawn hungrily – ready to snare the unwary. In really foul weather stay at sea level.
TimeAllow six hours for a there-and-back ascent and eight hours for the longer route.
Get thereAer Lingus flies from Dublin and Cork to Glasgow, and Ryanair flies from Dublin to Prestwick. Both airports have rail connections to Fort William and at Prestwick you can buy a return rail ticket for anywhere in Scotland at half price on arrival.
StayThe West End Hotel, Gordon Square, Fort William, tel 00-44-1397-702614 or see westend-hotel.co.uk. It offers small but well-appointed rooms in a friendly atmosphere. Its lounge offers wholesome food at reasonable prices.
WebsiteFor restaurants, accommodation, visitor attractions and activities in the Fort William area see visit-fortwilliam.co.uk.