Closing the Loop

Francis Bradleyfinally arrived at Loop Head, having clocked up many other places whose names evoke vivid memories of radio weather forecasts

MALIN HEAD, Mizen Head, Loop Head, Carnsore Point and the Irish Sea – words which evoke memories of radio weather forecasts from long ago. I finally arrived at Loop Head, Co Clare – that well-defined finger of land pointing out into the Atlantic – having clocked up all the others. Located at the most southwesterly point in Clare, the head is a neglected destination for visitors – no other cars appeared while I was there, but maybe the weather played a part in this.

Travelling out through Kilrush and Carrigaholt you will soon pass through the tiny village of Kilbaha – your last stop for refreshments before the Loop. The surrounding terrain displays the influences of the elements, with hardly a tree in sight. Within minutes you are at the end of the road with just the Loop Head lighthouse standing between you and the most westerly point in Co Clare.

The first lighthouse was built around 1670 and the present tower in 1854. The lighthouse tower is 23m high and was converted to automatic operation in 1991. The big structure beside the lighthouse is a Differential Global Positioning System (DGPS) which transmits from Loop Head, Mizen Head, and Tory Island and was introduced in June 1998.

During my visit, the weather was kicking up rough and I expected to get a soaking. However, while there were curtains of rain racing in from the Atlantic, the Head seemed to break their resolve and I only had to endure the tail ends of showers. This peninsula is bounded by rugged cliffs, so be warned – proceed carefully.

From the car park head north towards the cliffs and, maintaining a safe distance from the edge – some of the cliffs reach a height of 60m – turn in a northeast direction.

Loop Head is a Special Protection Area and the cliffs are breeding grounds for a variety of birds including Guillemots, Chough and Razorbills. Also, whales and dolphins have been spotted in the sea and the Shannon Estuary. Unfortunately, the weather during my visit made sure that everything was keeping a low profile.

The sea has carved a medley of shapes into this coastline with a variety of islets, sea stacks, sea arches and blowholes, none of which are more impressive than at the Bridges of Ross – a favourite spot for birdwatching, which you will reach after little more than an hour. There is a car park here so this is another point from where you could start your walk.

You now take to the road back towards Kilbaha through Moneen. Along the road you will come upon Kilbaha Church which houses the Little Ark.

Shortly after the Famine, the local priest, Fr Michael Meehan, saw the need to bring the sacrament of the Mass to the local area which didn’t have one. His efforts to set up a church were frustrated with threats and evictions by the local land agent Marcus Keane.

However, Fr Meehan came up with the idea of celebrating Mass in no-man’s land located on the foreshore between high and low tide marks. For this purpose, the Little Ark was constructed and used as a mobile altar and Masses continued for about five years before land was acquired to build Kilbaha Church. And so, the Little Ark passed into history.

Continue down the road passing the Ionad Cois Cuain Memorial Garden and finally, arrive at the Lighthouse Inn. Turn right and head towards Keating’s Bar, passing the Five Pilots Memorial on the right. Go left at Keating’s and follow the road as far as the pier.

Proceed along the coast with the Shannon Estuary on your left, and while the cliffs here are not as dramatic as on the other side of the peninsula it still requires care.

Shortly, you will pass Horse Island on the left and after another 20 minutes you will arrive back at Loop Head lighthouse.

Loop Head, Co Clare

START AND FINISHThe Loop Head car park but you could start from the car park at the Bridges of Ross or at the pier.

DISTANCE13.5kms.

TIME3-3.5 hours.

MAPSOrdnance Survey Discovery Series, sheet 63.

SUITABILITYA moderate walk, but not suitable for little feet or buggies. It can be done in either direction, but great care should be taken. Know how to read a map and use a compass. Dress appropriately and don't litter.

ACCOMMODATION AND REFRESHMENTSKeating's Bar, the Lighthouse Inn and local BBs.