After years of admiring Croaghanmoira from afar, Francis Bradley adds it to his ‘completed’ list
FOR YEARS I had been aware of the sharp, isolated top of Croaghanmoira, which is visible from many parts of the Wicklow hills. But I had never taken the time to get the mountain on to my “completed” list until recently, when there was still a lick of snow on the hills. I packed up early and headed for Drumgoff, in Glenmalure, my starting point for this walk.
Leaving the car opposite the Glenmalure Lodge, head south at the crossroads along the military road where you cross the Avonbeg river and then pass the old barracks on the left. Following the 1798 rebellion, the English decided that it was necessary to build an access route through the mountains, starting in Rathfarnham.
Work started in 1800. The military positioned barracks in Glencree, Laragh, Glenmalure (Drumgoff) and Aughavannagh. However, the threat of another rebellion diminished, and Drumgoff Barracks was never occupied. Nowadays the barracks is in the possession of the Irish Camping and Caravan Club, and is open to members only.
Very shortly after this you turn into Drumgoff Wood, on the right. This section of the walk is along part of the Wickow Way, so navigation should be easy.
Keep an eye out for the signposts with the yellow arrow and the little yellow walker and you shouldn’t go wrong.
But I did. Bombing along the trail where it heads directly east towards the road between Drumgoff and Aughavannagh, I missed a sharp right-hand turn and nearly walked as far as the road before I discovered my mistake. Luckily, I was on my own, so my blushes were saved.
Back on the correct trail, you are faced with a three-kilometre uphill slog along the eastern slopes of Slieve Maan before the trail takes another sharp turn east (left) and a further 500m leads you to the road. At this point I knew Croaghanmoira lay to the southeast, but the cloud was down, and it stayed that way for most of the walk.
Leaving the Wicklow Way behind, continue across the road, where a clear trail leads up towards the mountain. If there is reasonable visibility, your first objective should be the corner of the forest about 800m along the trail. While I get great enjoyment from walking forest trails, nothing matches being out on open mountainside without a curtain of trees obstructing your view.
I forgot to mention that the ground was still frozen solid – which was a blessing – and the first evidence of snow only manifested itself along this section of the walk. As this snow was also frozen solid, it made for some interesting disco-like moves on my part. After these balletic exertions I am definitely thinking of signing up for Strictly Come Dancing.
Keeping the forest on your right, the trail gradually pulls away from it as the ground steepens towards the summit. Croaghanmoira is crowned by a trig pillar; apparently, the summit was an important point for the triangulation of the country in the 19th century.
Unfortunately, as I described earlier, the top was shrouded in cloud, but I knew that, in better weather, the views would be fantastic, taking in Wexford, the Blackstairs and all the Wicklow hills.
Doubling back on the trail, head towards the aforementioned corner of the forest and then directly north towards point 623m on the OS. Your next objective is a straight run northeast to Fananieran, two and a half kilometres away. Guided by a fence for most of the way, the going is easy enough, but I imagine it will get quite mucky when the temperatures moderate.
After two kilometres take note of a wall running down the slope on your left: this is your exit route. Continue on to the summit of Fananieran, for fine views of Glenmalure Valley. Return to the point where the wall makes its descent and follow it in a northwesterly direction. You will find a broad trail through the trees that will soon lead you up to the road. From there turn right and follow the road for about two kilometres back to the car.
Start and finishCar park opposite the Glenmalure Lodge.
DistanceAbout 15km.
TimeUp to four and a half hours.
MapsOrdnance Survey Ireland Discovery Series sheets 56 and 62.
SuitabilityAlthough this is a moderate walk, it is not suitable for small children or buggies. Know how to read a map and use a compass. Dress appropriately, bring along drinks and snacks, and don't litter.
Accommodation and refreshmentsThe Glenmalure Lodge (0404-46188, theglenmalure lodge.com) or in Laragh.