GO MONTE CARLO:It's the country with the highest per capita income in the world and the capital, Monte Carlo, is its glittering jewel, writes
PETER CLUSKEY
IMAGINE A land with no recession, where nobody pays income tax, where playboy princes spend tens of millions of euro on fairytale weddings to their soon-to-be princesses, and where only the rich and famous are allowed to own homes.
Well, imagine no more. It exists. Welcome to the Principality of Monaco, sovereign city state on the Riviera, and its jet set capital, Monte Carlo – a wonderland with the highest per capita income in the world, the longest life expectancy in the world at just shy of 90 and, wait for it, 0 per cent unemployment.
Monte Carlo became synonymous with glittering Hollywood-style romance when its longest-serving ruler, Prince Rainier III, married Oscar-winning American actress, Grace Kelly, who was later killed in a car crash in 1982.
Rainier died in 2005 and was succeeded by his only son, Albert – now Prince Albert II – whose high-profile personal life has been more farce than romance. His marriage on July 1st last to South African former Olympic swimmer, 33-year-old Charlene Wittstock, a glittering occasion said to have cost an eye-watering €55 million, was beamed all over the world – only to be described in parts of the media as “an arranged marriage”.
Set against this dramatic backdrop, the best way to approach Monte Carlo is as if you were visiting the set of an enormous upmarket soap opera. You get that “lights, camera, action” buzz the moment you arrive. And there it is: the resplendent harbour you’ve seen on screen so many times, with row upon row of outsized luxury yachts.
The streets are famous as the high-octane setting of the Monaco Grand Prix, arguably the most challenging and dangerous on the Formula 1 calendar.
And most iconic of all, there’s the Grand Casino, Belle Epoque architectural masterpiece, archetypal 007 backdrop, and the one place you shouldn’t visit – as Bond himself would no doubt tell you – unless you have nerves of steel or can afford to lose.
The best way to see Monte Carlo is on foot. Before you recoil in horror, remember that this city is tiny (the entire country, in fact, is just 1.98sq km). And although it’s steep, it has seven handy escalators and elevators built into the rock to get you from one level to another quickly, and free of charge.
The layout is simple, with just four districts. Monaco-Ville is the old city, also known as “the rock”. La Condamine is the second-oldest district and includes the port.
Monte-Carlo itself is the business and recreation district. And Fontvieille is the newest of the four, built on reclaimed land and including the Monaco Heliport, and the Hotel Columbus Monte Carlo, previously owned by BBC commentator and former F1 driver, David Coulthard, who twice won the local derby.
IN TERMS OF seeing the sights, the place to start is Monaco-Ville and the Prince’s Palace. This has been the seat of the Grimaldi family since 1297, and the family flag is flown when Prince Albert is in residence. There are guided tours every day, and it’s a good idea to time your visit to see the changing of the guard – which happens at 11.55am precisely and lasts just two minutes.
While you’re in the vicinity of the palace, motoring enthusiasts should make a pilgrimage to see the Monaco Top Cars Collection, a fantastic display of vintage cars put together by the late Prince Rainier. In a labour of love, this mechanic-manqué disassembled, reassembled and restored more than 85 cars himself.
His definition of a car was broad: the collection starts with horse-drawn carriages complete with royal monograms, taking the historic route through some of the most prestigious models ever designed by Maserati, Jaguar, Mercedes and Rolls Royce, to name but the better-known.
A short walk from the palace is Monte Carlo Cathedral, built in 1875. Dedicated to St Nicholas, this is where Princess Grace and Prince Rainier were married in 1956 and where both are buried. Albert and Charlene were also married here in July.
If you’re a fan of church music, the cathedral is known for its magnificent four-keyboard organ and Cathedral Choir School whose members sing at 10 o’clock Mass every Sunday. It’s the perfect restful Sunday morning experience, and outside in the church square you’ll find several nice cafes.
A stone’s throw away, perched on a cliff, is Monaco’s Oceanographic Museum and Aquarium, where Jacques Cousteau was once director. The aquarium houses over 4,000 species of fish and 200 invertebrates as well as a shark lagoon. The kids will be awestruck.
ONCE THE children are satisfied, here’s one for the adults. Directly outside the Oceanographic Museum you’ll find a bus stop, and if you take the No 2 it will bring you to Le Jardin Exotique, the Exotic Garden of Monaco, on the level above the palace. Several thousand rare and wonderful flowers and plants from all over the world are laid out in a walking tour which shows them at their very best, with a background view in a million to set them off. Tours start every hour.
Now it’s time to reconnoitre the casino. Designed by Charles Garnier, architect of the Paris opera house, Opéra Garnier, it’s more than just a high-class gambling joint. It’s one of the most beautiful and ornate buildings in the city. The casino complex includes the Grand Théâtre de Monte Carlo, which specialises in opulently staged opera, and is home to Ballets de Monte Carlo.
The gaming rooms are worth seeing, with lavish stained glass, paintings and sculptures in every nook and cranny, and you can visit the building for a nominal fee without gambling. But, if you want to have a flutter, beware, there’s an entrance charge that varies depending on which game you’re interested in, and a dress code.
Speaking of fun, when evening falls and you slip into something more sophisticated, you might like to have an apéritif on the terrace of the Café de Paris beside the casino and watch the nighthawks come out to play.
Fine dining is next door at the Hotel de Paris, which has two sumptuous restaurants, Restaurant Louis XV run by three-star celebrity chef, Alain Ducasse, a native of Monaco, and Le Grill de L’Hôtel de Paris – if you’ve recently won the lottery.
Still, it’s nice to dream. After all, that’s why you’re here!
Get there
Aer Lingus ( aerlingus.com) flies to Nice four times a week in winter and every day during the summer. Nice is just 20km from Monte Carlo.
Monte Carlo where to . . .
Stay
Value:Hotel Cosmopolite, 4 Rue de la Turbie, 00-377-93-301695, hotelcosmopolite.com.This hotel is pretty basic but friendly, and in a great location down by the harbour in La Condamine, just seven minutes' walk from the beach. Double rooms start from €61.80, and triples (a double bed plus a single) from €78.70. So value is possible in Monte Carlo.
Mid-market:Hotel Columbus Monte Carlo, 23 Avenue des Papalins, 00-377-92-059000, columbushotels.com.Opened by Prince Rainier in 2001 and previously owned by former F1 driver, David Coulthard, this hotel is cool, modern and surprisingly good value considering the local market. A double room costs from €170 a night, while a 70sq m two-bedroom apartment is €468.
Upmarket: Hotel de Paris, Place du Casino, 00-377-98-063000, hoteldeparismontecarlo.com.This five-star hotel is regarded as the finest in Monte Carlo – though the Hermitage nearby might argue – and among the finest hotels in the world. A former palace, built in 1864, it is sumptuous in every detail. Double rooms start from €375 a night with a view of the inside courtyard, rising to €9,950 a night for a double suite with a view of the Med.
Eat
Value:La Pizzeria Monégasque, 4 Rue Terrazzani, La Condamine, 00-377-93-301638. This little pizzeria is widely regarded as the best in Monte Carlo. It has a menu of 10 luxury pizzas and also serves duck breast, steak, and beef. Yum.
Mid-market:Beefbar, 42 Quai Jean-Charles Ray, 00-377-97-770929, beefbar.com.This was the original Beefbar, and there are now restaurants in Moscow, Ukraine and Luxembourg as well. The man behind them is Riccardo Giraudi, a meat importer who says he could never find a good steak – and his beef is sourced in Ireland as well as Argentina and the Netherlands.
Upmarket:Louis XV-Alain Ducasse, Place du Casino, 00-377-98-068864, alain-ducasse.com. With restaurants everywhere from New York and Washington to Paris, Tokyo and Beirut, Alain Ducasse retains a special fondness for the Louis XV because he's a local boy and it brings him home. The gourmet menu costs €280 before wine – but then three Michelin stars don't come cheap.
Shop spot
You’ll need a healthy credit card if you’re going to shop with Europe’s high-rollers. Not for nothing are Avenue Monte Carlo, Avenue des Beaux-Arts and Les Allées Lumières known as le Cercle d’Or or the golden circle, home to brands such as Hermes, Gucci, Prada, Christian Dior, Louis Vuitton and Yves Saint Laurent. At Place du Casino you’ll find jewellers, Cartier, Bulgari and Chopard.
Night spot
The Grand Casino, Place du Casino, 00-377-98-062121, casinomontecarlo.com. You'll need an ever healthier credit card if you're going to gamble with those same high-rollers. Bring your passport to enter because Monegasque citizens are prohibited from gambling here. As you'll have seen in the movies, there's a strict dress code. And there's an entry charge which varies depending on which of the casino's gaming rooms you wish to try your luck in. Bon chance!