Gemma Tiptonvisits Carlton Hotel Kinsale, in Co Cork
OLDER SOMETIMES means wiser. I never go anywhere these days without earplugs, which was a good thing checking into Carlton Hotel Kinsale, as sound travelled between rooms 121 and 123 to the degree that I could hear the man next door cough, and the opening and closing of his door caused my own to rattle.
It was fortunate, then, that he didn't come back until after 11pm, for I had gone to bed early with a vodka and tonic from room service - there are no minibars, which I'm never sure is a good or a bad thing - to watch Agatha Christie's Poirot in bed. I adore watching TV in bed so much that I don't do it at home - I'd never get up - but it's a lovely delight in hotels. Still, the screams from the woman who didn't do it but was briefly suspected in Poirot could well have had my neighbour rushing in to rescue me, had he been on hand.
I had asked for a sea view, which came at a supplement of €30. The alternative was "garden view", which I suspected might be a euphemism for "looking out over the car park", and I was right. I should have specified, too, that I wanted something as high up as possible, and also asked for a nonsmoking room. My room had a distinct smell of ashtray, and, as a path ran by the window, net curtains meant the gorgeous view was a little diminished.
The hotel was chock-full with guests at a weekend wedding - the hotel is a very popular venue, and neighbours are often treated to free firework shows - having opted to stay for an extra night. This meant there was no chance for changing rooms, so I opened the top windows and, earplugs in, shut out the sound of snores and had a lovely sleep.
I had gone to Kinsale after falling in love with it during its arts week earlier in the year and it is fast becoming one of my favourite places in Ireland. There are gorgeous bars, fantastic restaurants - the Bulman, Crackpots, Fishy Fishy - and, in Mange Tout, a deli that sells a lemon-and-poppy-seed slice you'd almost move there for. The nice people at the Carlton run a shuttle bus in and out of town every half an hour from 6pm to 11pm, so you can enjoy the delights of the place to the full - and have a few drinks as well.
The hotel is set a kilometre or two from Kinsale, near the dramatic Charles Fort, and is reached down a winding tree-lined avenue. It is on a 35-hectare site that has managed to escape being turned into a golf course, and there are plans for rambling pathways throughout.
I arrived after dark, so I missed all this until the following day, but morning brought a sense of disappointment. The architect had succumbed, as so many do, to the temptations of the atrium, which means that a dramatic stairway gets the best views, and the bar is tucked inside the building, missing out on the full beautiful sweep of the bay. There is an outdoor terrace, which on occasional days of sunshine must be sublime for sitting and sipping at something delicious.
The staff at the Carlton are lovely, the kind of people who make a stay memorable for all the right reasons, and, not wanting to write the whole place off on account of my neighbour's night noises, I asked a few questions and discovered that the rooms with an interconnecting door (such as mine) are being soundproofed this very week. I'd still bring my earplugs though, just in case.
The next day I trotted down to the leisure centre, where I had a lovely treatment and a gorgeous swim. Through windows from the pool I could see walkers in the gym on treadmills, which seemed a bit nutty given the glories outside. Pressing buttons on water jets in the pool, I also discovered that you'd be safer in a one- piece than a bikini, as one particular water jet seemed specially designed to take your top off. Perhaps that's why the walking machines with a pool view are at such a premium.
Over breakfast, which is served on the second floor, looking out over to the bay, I realised that everyone in the hotel was having different experiences. The remnants of the wedding party were shaking off some of the festivity-induced fog and getting ready to depart; perhaps others, like me, were wondering about the little faults and wishing for elusive perfection (and an espresso, which they don't serve until the bar opens); while any heavy-sleeping smokers on the top floor with a sea view could hardly have found this place anything but heaven.
WhereCarlton Hotel Kinsale, Co Cork, 021-4706000, www.carlton kinsalehotel.com.
WhatFour-star hotel on 35 hectares by the sea.
Rooms70 in main building, including two suites, plus 19 three-bed family suites.
Best ratesCurrently from €49pps to €129 pps.
Restaurant and barOysterhaven View Restaurant has the best position; the Captain's Bar is tucked in behind. There are also two small reading rooms, where you can escape with a drink.
AccessSix fully accessible rooms.
Child-friendlinessKids welcome. A club in the school holidays takes over-fives for activities from 9am until lunchtime. Book in advance.
AmenitiesLeisure centre and pool, lovely walks and a shuttle bus to Kinsale.