Miriam Donohoevisits the Ritz-Carlton Powerscourt
THERE IS HARDLY a more perfect spot to build a luxury hotel in Ireland than the grounds of the historic Powerscourt House and Gardens, in Enniskerry, Co Wicklow, with the Sugar Loaf mountains as the backdrop. The developers of the Ritz-Carlton saw the potential and have created an opulent five-star property that blends in with Powerscourt's luscious gardens, expansive terraces, fountains and magnificent waterfall.
The hotel opened just over a year ago, when the Celtic Tiger was still roaring. The grandeur may not fit easily into our new circumstances, but you cannot take away from the scale and ambition of this hotel, surely one of the most stylish in the country.
The hotel has 200 guest rooms (including 124 suites), with an average size of 65sq m (700sq ft), plus the signature Gordon Ramsay restaurant, a 2,800sq m (30,000sq ft) spa, an Irish bar, conference centre and a staff that makes you feel as if you are royalty.
Our plan was to escape from Dublin for just one night. Priorities were a place that did not involve a long drive, with a good restaurant and where we could get in a good walk and fresh air. The Ritz-Carlton ticked all the boxes.
When I phoned to ask about rates for a Wednesday night I was put through to a call centre in Salt Lake City, in the US, and to a very entertaining Republican supporter none too happy with Barack Obama's election victory. "I don't know what is going to happen with a socialist in the White House," she moaned.
I asked for the best midweek rate. After umming and erring and "Hold on there, ma'am, and I will see what I can do for you," she quoted €225 for a deluxe room, including taxes and breakfast. A good price, I thought, but the haggler inside me could not be suppressed. "Surely you can do better than that. Hotels are doing no business, you know. It's a buyer's market."
Ms Republican came back and offered a package of €250 for bed and breakfast, including a €75 voucher to spend anywhere in the hotel, including the Gordon Ramsay restaurant. "Done," I said, feeling I had got a bargain.
We arrived at midday, after a handy 35-minute drive from Rathfarnham, in Dublin. Accessed through the gates of Powerscourt Estate, the Ritz-Carlton is hidden behind trees on the left. The impressive neoclassical structure, with its Palladian exterior, is complemented by a Georgian-inspired interior with wooden floors and marble staircases. The lobby is on the fourth floor; a sweeping staircase brings you down to the restaurant, bar and conference facilities.
It was our lucky day: we were upgraded to a Mountain View Suite, on the sixth floor, complete with sitting room and balcony with breathtaking scenes. A porter showed us how to operate the controls to turn on the lights and open the curtains. A TV was set into the bathroom mirror.
The superking bed had crisp white linen and feather pillows, and the bathroom had a marble bath (with Bulgari products) and a rainforest shower. Oh, bliss . . . plush white terry robes.
Service is second to none. A staff member told us the hotel is getting the bulk of its business from conferences, which had not been the intention when it opened. For foreigners there is a full-service, multilingual concierge. And take note of the pet policy: dogs and cats weighing less than nine kilos can stay in your room.
After the tour of our suite we headed to the Sugar Loaf Lounge, which overlooks the mountain. A look at the menu drove home the fact that we were going to pay handsomely for our surroundings. A bowl of chowder, a not very substantial open sandwich and two coffees left us with little change from €50. But we decided we were worth it.
After a healthy walk from the hotel down to Enniskerry village and back for a tour around Powerscourt House, we had worked up a big appetite. We had a pre-dinner drink in McGills, the hotel's Irish bar, but found it cold and with a contrived atmosphere.
The Gordon Ramsay restaurant was an experience both in the food and the quality of the service. Dinner with starters, main course, dessert and one of the cheaper bottles of wine on the menu set us back €250. But it couldn't be faulted. About eight tables were occupied, which on a Wednesday wasn't bad given these times.
We ran out of time to try the spa. But next time.
• WhereRitz-Carlton Powerscourt, Enniskerry, Co Wicklow, 01-2748888, www.ritzcarlton.com.
• WhatFive-star luxury hotel in the grounds of Powerscourt House, with golf course, spa, Gordon Ramsay restaurant and spa.
• Rooms200, including 124 suites.
• Best rates€225 BB midweek, based on two people sharing. Check website for packages.
• Restaurants and barsThe signature Gordon Ramsay restaurant; the Chef's Table, inside the kitchen of Gordon Ramsay, with seating for up to 10 guests; the Sugar Loaf, for casual dining, on the lobby level; the Sugar Loaf Lounge, for afternoon tea; and McGills Irish bar, which serves traditional Irish dishes.
• Access10 wheelchair-friendly rooms, two on each floor.
• Child-friendlinessThe hotel provides babysitting services, and while it is very geared towards adults it is also very welcoming of little ones.
• AmenitiesSpa, two championship golf courses, walks, landscaped gardens and a helicopter pad.