Go Walk: the West Galtees in Tipperary

Recently, I decided to join Mid-Tipp Hillwalkers club for a high level Sunday walk to the Comeragh Mountains. Arriving at the meeting place in Cashel, my plan instantly disarrayed on discovering that the moderate walk of the day was destined for the West Galtees. Yes, I am an unashamed cheerleader for these insouciant but surprisingly unfrequented hills that always put me in mind of England’s Lake District. Of late, however, my visits had become far too infrequent and so it was never going to be a contest. About 30 minutes later, I found myself heading out onto the West Galtees from the well-appointed King’s Yard parking place on a sublime, leaf-crunching autumnal day.

In the slipstream of walk leaders, Joan Lysaght and Maura Creaney, we diverted right over a stile, to follow the arrows for the Attychraan Loop across a footbridge, where an obliging woodland path conveyed us to a forest road. At the next junction we abandoned the Loop by going right to reach the end of the woods on our left where we tagged a rough path along the forest's edge. Our leaders explained apologetically that this unsympathetic shortcut was necessary to avoid a long tarmac slog. Actually it didn't matter for we were well compensated by majestic views unfolding of the deeply alluring high Galtees. At a 3-way intersection it was right to a gate and then downhill through immature forestry to gain a tarmac road paralleling the Bahanagh River. With the bright waters gurgling happily alongside we ambled upstream and then through a gate, to reach open mountainside.

Beyond, a track, hugging one of the drystone walls, which are a surprising but attractive feature of the West Galtees, took us seamlessly north beneath the gnarly flanks of Knockaterriff Mountain. Passing by a delightfully situated cottage, which is surely the most isolated house in these mountains, we descended to the reach a ford in the Blackrock River.

Beyond, a zig-zag path carved its way upwards to a col. It was used in the war years to convey turf on improvised sleighs from the still visible turf cutting in the blanket bog above. This col is my favourite stay-awhile place in these mountains and I was glad we paused. Now, it was wildness everywhere in a delightfully pristine landscape with the curvy Galtee peaks filling the backdrop in all directions.

Next, we were led south to get on the right side of a huge channel diving into the Funshion River valley before contouring the steep flanks of Monabrack and descending towards the poignant remains of a hillfarm, which, like all others of its kind shouts the question, who once lived here and why did they leave?

Reflecting a littleon how mountains ultimately defeat all human endeavor, we crossed the Funshion by a well-constructed footbridge and then took a track upwards with woodlands to our right. Now it was plain sailing along a firm track that led us unerringly back to King’s Yard where profuse thanks was offered to our leaders for a lovely moderate walk with great variety.

Start point. Leave the M8 motorway at Junction 12 and follow the signs for Kilbeheny. Go through the village on the N8 and turn left at a sign for King’s Yard. Follow these signs to King’s Yard where secure parking with facilities costs a meagre €2.

Time. 3.5 hours.

Suitability. Although the going is never really tough, there is some challenging terrain. So be fully prepared and aware that the route crosses trackless moorland where it is easy to become disorientated in mist.

Map. OSi Sheet 74.

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