Antrim: An insider’s guide to the best walks, beaches, food, drink and activities

Even without a renowned Unesco World Heritage Site (the Giant's Causeway) to burnish its tourist credentials, the Antrim coast would still be one of the island's major highlights.

Take Carrickfergus Castle (Marine Hwy), for instance. The first major stop along the coast from Belfast, this is one of Ireland's best-preserved medieval fortresses – and it overlooks the spot where King Billy stepped ashore in 1690 on his way to the Boyne. Just a bit north of here is the marvellous Gobbins (thegobbinscliffpath.com), a coastal cliff path that runs along the peninsula at Islandmagee. The 5km-long path (allow 2½ hours) takes you along rock and crevice through tunnels, caves and tubular bridges; it's a bit arduous but exhilarating.

If you're looking for somewhere local to stay, the Rabbit Hotel & Retreat (rabbithotel.com) opened in June on the edge of Templepatrick. It's a 33-bedroom boutique hotel and spa with some gorgeous lakeside walks and an excellent restaurant.

As you move northward around the coast, check out the Cornish-style cottages at Cushendun, one of which is home to Mary McBride's pub (look for the Game of Thrones door inside) and, next door, the excellent Little Black Door restaurant, which does really tasty pub grub.

Holding on to the Big House: How modern owners make them viable

---

Great getaways: Health retreats and seafood walks to enjoy this summer

---

Emer McLysaght: The seven people you will certainly meet on your holiday in Ireland

---

And you still haven’t yet reached the causeway coast, the star of the show.

The main road from Cushendun is the A2 to Ballycastle, but the scenic coastal route takes you along a narrow road that appears to cling to the steep slope - your reward (on a clear day) are some stunning views as far as Mull in Scotland. Halfway along the 23km route is Torr Head, surrounded by abandoned coastguard houses and crowned by a 19th-century station that was abandoned in the 1920s and now serves as a seasonal salmon fishery.

Ballycastle is a traditional bucket-and-spade seaside resort with a difference. The town is a gourmet hotspot, so keep an eye out for smoked fish from the North Coast Smokehouse (northcoastsmokehouse.com) and beer from Glens of Antrim Craft Ales & Beers (glensofantrimcraftaleandbeers.com), while just west of town off Straid Road is the wonderful Broughgammon farm and cafe (broughgammon.com), an award-winning, forward-thinking family farm with an artisan (ethical) butchery, a farm shop and a terrific cafe.

In Ballycastle, even the fish and chips are legendary, and you can’t leave without trying Morton’s (Harbour Road), a contender for best chipper on the island.

Ballycastle is also the jumping off point for trips to rugged Rathlin Island, 10km offshore. April to July is puffin season, when thousands of them nest along with guillemots, razorbills, kittiwakes and fulmars; the refurbished RSPB centre is the spot to learn about the island’s seasonal inhabitants.

You don't have to be a Game of Thrones geek to recognise Ballintoy Harbour as the real-life Iron Islands' Lordsport Harbour; in the town itself, next to the Fullerton Arms, is the Kraken food truck (krakenfishbar.co.uk; there's another in Portrush), which serves gluten-free, hand-battered fish 'n' chips, which you can enjoy in one of the designated outdoor pods (there's also a marquee and beer garden).

If you are a Game of Thrones fan, you'll want to make the inevitable Insta pilgrimage to the Dark Hedges, the 500m-long avenue of intertwined beech trees that leads up to the 18th-century Gracehill House, 13km south of Ballintoy along the B147. It's a stunning bit of artistry, but do yourself and everyone else a favour and don't park along the road – use one of the car parks. Oh, and if you want to avoid the crowds, go early in the morning, when the light is perfect.

A causeway coast highlight is a walk across the 20m-long, 1m-wide rope bridge at Carrick-a-Rede (nationaltrust.org.uk), which isn't nearly as frightening as it's made out to be but can be a real test of patience during summer, when there's a big queue looking to get across the bridge to the island. Once across, though, the views of the coastline and Rathlin Island are gorgeous.

Carrick-a-Rede gets busy, but nothing like the kind of crowds you'll see clambering over the expanse of 40,000 tightly packed, polygonal basalt columns that make up the Giant's Causeway (nationaltrust.org.uk), one of only three UNESCO World Heritage Sites on the island. The rocks themselves are free, but you'll need to pre-book the visitor centre if you want to uncover the geological history of the rocks (I prefer the legend that the giant Balor threw the rocks down into the sea to create a footbridge over to his girlfriend in Scotland). Highly recommended is the 8km guided walk along the causeway clifftops run by Away a Wee Walk (awayaweewalk.com) that runs daily throughout the year and includes entry to the visitor centre.

When you're done, you can refuel at the Maegden Food Truck (cheesemaegden.com), a 1950s-style caravan pitched in a field just down the road. It serves arguably the best grilled cheese sandwich in Ireland: in between two slices of sourdough bread from local baker Ricky Hay are your choice of four delicious cheeses.

For something a little more formal, Bushmills Inn (bushmillsinn.com) is a 17th-century coaching inn that serves exquisite food amid the peat fires and gas lamps of the main dining room. The building also has a secret library and a round tower. You can also stay in the modern hotel attached.

Even the casual hacker will know that the links at Royal Portrush (royalportrushgolfclub.com) is famous, and not just because it hosted the British Open in 2019. This is one of the best courses in the world and a trophy destination for many an avid golfer. And when you're done, the Ramore (ramorerestaurant.com) collection of pubs and restaurants under one huge roof all serve tasty grub, but with sea views.