FRANCIS BRADLEYrevisits his first serious hike from Stepaside to Enniskerry – a route which offers a good mix of prepared tracks and open mountainside
THE DAY couldn’t have started better. Everything prepared – packed lunch, flask, chilled water – and the weather, a cloudless sky with only a slight hint of an easterly breeze. My task ahead was the full circuit of Glencullen starting at Stepaside.
The first part of the walk – Three Rock Mountain, Fairy Castle and Two Rock Mountain – was a return for me to the site of my inaugural attempt at hillwalking. On a drizzly day, all those years ago, I set off clad in a padded leather motorcycle jacket (I was told that it could be cold), jeans (nobody knew any better) and leather motorcycle boots.
It seemed like a good idea at the time. Added to that, my physiology provides me with an aggressive form of central heating – I blame my parents. I melted on that walk. However, that experience has led to 35 years of enjoyment and I don’t regret the perspiration lost in the intervening time.
From Stepaside, head out the Glencullen road and join the Dublin Mountain Way (DMW) at Carthy’s Green where shortly you enter Three Rock Wood. Navigation is straightforward for the first 11-12km of this walk. No need to use a compass (but have one with you), just carry a good map and follow the trail markers.
This mountain stretch is one of the most heavily trafficked areas in Ireland and Dublin Mountains Partnership, Coillte, Mountain Meitheal and others deserve our thanks and praise for their excellent work at upgrading trails, signage and remedial work.
At the top of Three Rock, I cut off a section of the DMW and headed straight up to Fairy Castle and Two Rock. After that it was full steam ahead to Tibradden Mountain. You can clip along at a fair old pace on these excellent trails, but I knew that the second half of my route would slow my gallop. There are excellent views in all directions and many comfortable-looking picnic spots, but I had a different schedule.
Soon, I was in the southern part of the Pine Forest. Tomorrow week the woods around here – Massy’s Wood, Cruagh Wood, the Hell Fire Club, Tibradden Wood and Pine Forest – will echo with the shrill, high-pitched, excited shrieks of adults along with the more sober voices of their children telling them to behave.
The 53 Degrees North Walking Festival, which includes a week of talks and activities to raise awareness of this wonderful resource on the fringe of the capital, will culminate with a day of activities on its final day, including a walk at my next obstacle, Cruagh Mountain.
This was the turning point on my route, where I began my return journey along the southern side of Glencullen. It is also the point where the managed trails end with a fine 500m stretch of Mountain Meitheal-installed walkway which introduces you to the open mountainside.
I didn’t spend much time looking for a marker on the top of Cruagh Mountain because I wanted to get the next hill – Glendoo Mountain, the highest point of the day – behind me before lunch. I had done my research and was warned that, even after a dry spell, this area could be quite soft and wet – and so it was.
Glendoo Mountain came and went and, as I crossed the appropriately named “Bog Mountain”, I realised that my haste had led to a minor, but inconvenient error of judgment.
This area is open, boggy, wet, has no shelter and I realised that there was no suitable place to eat.
The last boulders were miles back and as I looked towards Knocknagun, there were no obvious “dry spots” apart from what looked like a peat hag just off its summit.
That peat hag turned out to be a fine rocky outcrop on Knocknagun – so keep that in mind for your alfresco. From there, it was on to Prince William’s Seat and on down to cross the Wicklow Way on my way to Raven’s Rock.
Your aim now is to get to the main Glencree road at Kilmalin. The trails indicated on EastWest Mappings' Dublin Mountain Waymap are very clear and it is easy to navigate through Annacrivey Wood.
When you get to the main road, it is a 2.5km walk into Enniskerry. Go carefully, the road can be very busy.
Route Stepaside to Enniskerry
StartStepaside, Co Dublin. Served by buses 44, 47 and 118.
FinishEnniskerry, Co Wicklow. Served by buses 44 and 47 (from Dublin), and 185 (from Bray).
Distance24km.
TimeSix hours.
MapsEastWest Mapping, The Dublin Mountains featuring the Dublin Mountain Way.
SuitabilityA moderate walk, but the distance is the telling factor. The first half (Stepaside to Cruagh Wood) is on excellent trails and the going is easy. The second half is open mountainside with no trails for significant distances. Know how to read a map and use a compass. Dress appropriately and don't litter.
Accommodation and refreshmentsEnniskerry.