With the help of two cars, you can turn this Wicklow walk into a downhill trek, says DEIRDRE DAVYS
THE TERM “downhill skiing” is pretty well known but what about “downhill walking”? I have only once met a hill walker who disliked walking “up” hills. They loved the hills, the fresh air and the beauty of the countryside and everything to do with hill walking except the exertion of walking uphill.
This “downhill” walk would have suited them perfectly: it has only one gentle incline at the end. It does however involve the use of two cars, one of which will be used to drive people to the lofty heights from which they will descend to the valley floor.
The first car needs to be parked near Oldbridge, Co Wicklow, on the small road to the southwest of Lough Dan. The second car will then take everyone up to what are known locally as the Pier Gates ie, the entrance to the private Luggala Estate, which has a right of way through it.
Like so many wonderful houses and estates in the Dublin and Wicklow area, Luggala is owned by a member of the Guinness family, Garech Browne.
The beautifully preserved Georgian house was built in 1787 as a hunting lodge by the La Touche family. Guests nowadays include famous writers, painters and musicians.
Entering this estate is rather like stepping into a film set in which the scenery, rather than an actor, is the star. It is difficult to imagine anywhere in the world more beautiful.
Starting at a height of about 400m the road drops steeply into a magnificent valley of emerald green pastures, soaring cliffs and brooks.
Here and there beneath ancient Scots pines, gnarled old oaks, chestnuts and alders, deer graze peacefully.
In sharp contrast to this perfect pastoral scene the craggy outcrops of Luggala Mountain rise steeply from the shores of Lough Tay. Giant boulders lie strewn about from a time when nature decided to wreak havoc for a while.
Nearby the more benign ferny slopes of Knocknacloghoge rise gently from the plain and it is around the base of this little mountain that our walk will go. An old green road, bounded on one side by a mossy stone wall and on the other by the foot of the mountain, leads you on towards the shores of Lough Dan.
The lake is the meeting place for the Cloghoge River, your green road and another path which comes down from the road where you parked your car. If the river is low you can cross it here and cut the walk very short but it would all be uphill!
You will now have reached an old stone house and giant tree whose branches providing welcome shelter from sun or rain – a good place for a picnic if you were doing a short walk. Nearby are the remains of old stone houses (from higher up on the other side of the mountain you can make out the shapes of old potato drills here).
The next section of this walk can be a bit prickly as you need to make your way around the base of the mountain through scented gorse bushes. It is worth it, though, as pretty quickly you will see what is apparently a beach on a Greek island. This perfect white sand beach is another great spot for lunch or you can keep going around the mountain, keeping up a bit particularly if the weather is wet, and head toward the wooded area on the east side of the Inchavore river which now comes into view.
The further up the river you go the more likely you are to find yourself a whirlpool bath with a plunge pool, for here the water tumbles down over great big rocks forming pools big enough to swim in. These huge flat rocks make ideal tables on which to lay out your comestibles.
Crossing the river you now head south along its banks and will soon pick up a track. This is a beautiful wide valley with a lovely stand of trees, under which sheep may often be seen huddling.
Ever so gently the path begins to rise but your “up haters” may take solace in the fantastic views down over the lake and the romantic cottage nestled into the hillside.
Two metal farm gates will confront you. At the second one veer off to what appears to be the correct path and look to the left for a small wooden gate with a green arrow and a sign saying “Agreed Access”.
There is another green arrow pointing up to Kanturk here. Unlike some walks, which are a bit of a boring slog at the end, this path contours around the mountain along the now very steep sides of the lake giving ever better views as you go.
You emerge through a gate and turn left to your car further along the road.
Knocknacloghoge
GETTING THEREDrive with two cars to Oldbridge, Co Wicklow, and then take one to the Luggala estate
MAPOrdnance Survey Discovery Series 56
TIMETwo to three hours
SUITABILITYAll levels
WHERE TO STAYIn and around Roundwood or at The Wicklow Way Lodge