Live it up around Ireland

Experiential tourism is the new buzzword in the trade

Experiential tourism is the new buzzword in the trade. It means getting visitors off sugar-coated tours to sample real life with plenty of exercise thrown in. JOHN O'DWYERsuggests some enthralling days out

Biking in Kerry

Queen Elizabeth may not have visited Kerry earlier this year but a predecessor, Victoria, made Killarney famous.

To experience what so enthralled the monarch, hire a bike in Killarney and cycle an easy 12km to Kate Kearney’s Cottage at the entrance to the Gap of Dunloe.

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After coffee continue a further 10km through the unforgettable gap to Lord Brandon’s Cottage. Then take a boat that also carries bikes across the world famous lakes to Ross Castle from where it is just a 15-minute cycle to Killarney.

killarneydaytour.com, 064-31068

Walk the walls

The memories of my first visit to Derry are of a bomb-blackened city with barbed wire along the city walls.

Today, Derry has changed beyond recognition and is looking resolutely ahead to its role as UK City of Culture 2013.

It still takes courage to recount the visceral events of history, but an Offaly man of Chinese parentage has found such audacity. On Ronan McNamara’s walking tours of the city walls, he puts aside the saccharin and gets down to explaining the conflict. When he sets out the loyalist point of view, it makes some sense and when he explains the nationalist case it, too, seems reasonable.

You come away hugely better-informed and agreeing with the late Mo Mowlam that in Northern Ireland everybody simply believes they are absolutely right.

derryvisitor.com, 028-71267284

Visit Queen Maeve

The distinctive landscape of Co Sligo has drawn visitors for generations who find plenty to do at a multitude of visitor attractions. But there is also something specially rewarding about getting off the tourist trail and capturing a hilltop.

Located just outside Sligo, Knocknarea is an eminence that simply drips with history and takes just a half hour to ascend on an easy path. But the rewards are out of proportion to effort.

The summit is adorned by a huge cairn which is reputedly the burial pace of Queen Maeve and also offers a wonderful 360-degree view to Donegal Bay, Ben Bulben and the timeless Sligo landscape below.

sligotourism.ie, 071-9161201

Potter around Dingle

Having established himself as a leading craft potter, Louis Mulcahy moved his workshop to the Dingle Peninsula.

Today, Mulcahy Pottery brings visitors to his Ballyferriter workshop to browse the beautiful creations, see the work in progress and even try a hand at pottery making.

On workshop visits – which begin in June – you first get to observe a professional potter undertaking the process of “throwing a pot”. Then it’s your turn and immediately you discover the enormous skill required to create even the simplest piece. It is great fun, though, and for a modest €4 you get to take home your creation.

louismulcahy.com, 066-9156229

Towpath trail

Roads tend to show what others want revealed but canals offer a real life impression.

The Grand Canal serves as a recreational waterway and a 114km walking trail. For those with time and energy it can be footed from Dublin to the Shannon in a serene four days. Otherwise, the most interesting parts of the canal lie to the west.

For a short but memorable outing on a surprisingly river-like section, walk the canal towpath through the lush countryside from Ferbane to Shannon Harbour while considering how attractive Ireland can be, even in places where the landscape once worked hard for an industrial living.

walks.iwai.ie

Fermanagh paddle

Undiscovered Ireland is a cliche thrown too easily over many areas. But if it exists then it is surely in Fermanagh.

Ireland’s lakeland paradise remains surprisingly untouched by mass tourism and is still a great place for discerning visitors. It is dominated by the Erne Waterway which contains Devenish Island monastic site with a Romanesque church and 30-metre round tower from which there are spectacular views.

A ferry to Devenish operates throughout the summer from Trory Point 1.5 miles outside Enniskillen.

Those in search of a really memorable experience will, however, hire a canoe and row the easy 3.5km kayak trail from Enniskillen.

Then it’s just a question of exploring Devenish and enjoying a packed lunch before retracing your paddle.

enniskillen.com, canoeni.com

Tree tops

If you thought that treetops were just for the birds think again. At Lough Key Forest Park, Co Roscommon you follow a self-guided tour with commentary and learn the history, flora and fauna of the area.

There’s also a visit to gloomy subterranean tunnels and an ascent of the observation tower for a superb panorama of the surrounding landscape.

The really memorable experience, however, is the tree canopy walk. This 300m long gangway rises 9m above the woodland floor and provides an unforgettable bird’s eye view as it meanders through the treetops with tantalising glimpses to island studded Lough Key.

loughkey.ie, 071-9673122

Going Greenway

For many years the activity sector of Irish tourism punched below its weight but now innovation is redressing this imbalance. Mayo’s Great Western Greenway has been a huge success and follows the beautiful route of the Achill/Westport railway.

For a memorable day out, hire a bike in Newport, Co Mayo and then cycle 18km along the elegantly paved Greenway to the superbly located Mulranny Park Hotel. Enjoy a quality lunch at the hotel and then work it off on the cycle back to Newport.

This time you will be glad of the prevailing winds at your back and the benefit of a more downhill route.

newport-bicycle.com (098- 42900), mulrannyparkhotel.ie (098-36000)

Heaven’s door

Mainly because of health and safety experts, who seem determined to keep us all gibbering on until we’re 150, the exhilarating experience of traversing the ocean in an open boat is becoming rare.

Thankfully, however, the 12km boat journey from south Kerry to Skellig Michael survives. You’ll truly know you’ve escaped today’s cotton wool society when you make the precarious leap to the landing slip. Now it’s a question of tormenting the body but elevating the spirit on the 700-odd steep steps to the monastic ruins which literally seem to knock on heaven’s door.

It’s worth the effort though, for you won’t need to stretch your imagination to understand the relentless commitment to sustain life on this storm-lashed rock.

Return with renewed respect for the simple faith that sustained our earliest monks in the harsh Atlantic environment.

skelligexperience.com

Cable-car ride

Do you really want to get away from it all? If yes, then Dursey Island off west Cork is the place for you.

It is accessed by cable-car, where you may end up sharing with several sheep or even a cow.

Dursey remains delightfully uncommercial with no shops, pubs or restaurants but is ideal for those wishing to rekindle the joy of exploring on foot.

Do this by following the Beara Way which loops 11km around the island with spectacular views and many possibilities to observe seals, dolphins and birdlife. Bring warm clothing and a packed lunch, though, for Dursey is all about cultivating self-reliance.

Bantry Tourist Office (027-50229)