A climb of Mount Brandon and the Brandon Ridge is best begun in Cloghane, writes TONY DOTHERTY
BILL TILMAN, the famous British mountaineer, was firmly of the opinion that as mountains are measured from sea level, you hadn't really climbed one if you didn't start your ascent from the shore. So get thee to the far end of the Dingle Peninsula and prepare to do so. There you will find Mount Brandon, which at 952m is the highest peak on the most westerly mountain ridge in Europe.
Start from Cloghane, on the east side of the ridge, which is less than 10 metres above sea level. If you want to be totally purist, nip down to the sea shore behind the village. Then take the grassy track across from O'Donnell's pub. You will come to a small wooden gate on your right. From here, the way-marked path leads up to a third- class road. Turn left here for Faha, where the mountain track starts.
It leads firstly up to a grotto, the starting point for pilgrimages to the summit, and then west, up and across the mountainside, for two kilometres. Having gained 600m at this stage, the path turns to the northwest. Ahead of you are the great cliffs at the headwall of the coom. Your first reaction will undoubtedly be: how the heck am I going to get up that? A series of rock-basin lakes, linked by waterfalls, sparkle beneath you. These formed in hollows where glaciers gouged out areas of weak rock. Erosion by the same moving ice-mass created the great rock buttresses across from you.
The track now contours along the side of the valley to the floor of the coom, and crosses over bare rock outcrops marked with painted arrows to the southwest corner where a steep ramp provides your route out of the coom.
The path is well eroded by countless boots and has patches of loose scree on it. The key to survival on this type of terrain is to be first to go up and last to come down, and then no one can kick a stone on you! At the top of the ramp you emerge from the grim, rocky fastness into the vivid greens and blues of Gaeltacht Corcha Dhuibhne and its renowned Atlantic coastline. Looking back into the coom you can now clearly see the great folds in the rock strata, which give testimony to the powerful earth movements that created these mountains 400 million years ago.
It's an easy haul to the summit which is marked by a large cross. At its base is a stone structure known as St Brendan's Oratory. Your view is all-encompassing, taking in Loop Head, most of the Kerry mountains, the Skelligs, the Blaskets and, apparently, on a clear day, the Bens of Connemara.
The ridge south to Brandon Peak and Gearhane is a superb hike on easy ground. The track keeps close to the edge of the cliffs the whole way. Drop to Drom na Muice (Pig's Back) at 750m, then back up to Brandon Peak, 840m. From here, the ridge gets progressively narrower to form an arête for the last 200m up to Gearhane, 803m. It doesn't present any difficulty but care is required. Follow the spur south westwards to spot height 623m and then south to spot height 397m. Turn left down a stony track which brings you to the top of the third-class road which leads back to Cloghane.
You can now be smug with people who tell you they have climbed Ireland's other Munros (with peaks of more than 914m), as you ask: "Ah, but at what height did you start?"
Start and finishThe village of Cloghane. Grid reference: 515 110.
How to get thereFrom Tralee follow the N86, R560 and R585. From Dingle, take the R560 over the Conor Pass.
TimeEight hours.
Distance22 km. If you want to cheat and have a car on the road at the bottom, 16km.
Total ascent1092m.
Ordnance Survey. Discovery Series sheet 70.
SuitabilityThe full route is hard but the most common option is to retrace your steps from the summit. Map, compass, warm clothing, good boots and rain gear are a must. Cloud can come down very suddenly on the ridge.
Food and accommodationSelf-catering, guest houses, B&Bs, and hostels available in Cloghane and Dingle. Meals are served in Mullally's pub in Brandon and O'Donnell's and O'Connor's in Cloghane.