A tropical peninsula on Australia's west edge is full of natural delights, writes LISA MCCAGHY
HIDDEN AWAY away in the upper west coast of Australia is a tropical seaside town known for blood red sunsets, a staircase to the moon and 130 million year old dinosaur footprints.
Broome is overlooked by many, due to its lack of proximity to anywhere else, but if you can spare the time it’s worth the effort to get there.
If you have been city hopping down under, exploring Sydney, Melbourne or Perth, stepping off the plane in Broome is the perfect antidote to those city fumes, busy streets, and the noise of traffic. It feels more like an island than a peninsula, and from the amount of tropical trees everywhere, you get the sense that before it was a holiday destination, it was probably a jungle.
Broome was founded in the 1880s as a pearling port, drawing people from China, Japan, Malaysia and Europe, all with dreams of making their fortune. Today the town remains multi-cultured, with Chinatown being the main focal point of the (very small) centre.
Pearling is still big business, but the industry that the town was built on has not always had a smooth run of it. During World Wars one and two Broome was almost in economic ruin when many workers left to serve, and sales of pearls dropped off dramatically.
They have also had to battle some vicious cyclones (one which destroyed 18 pearling boats), high death rates among workers due to the hazardous conditions and some nasty bouts of oyster-loving bacteria. But they survived it all and Broome is once again at the centre of Australia’s Pearl industry.
Broome’s number one draw has always been Cable Beach, which gets its name from the telegraph cable that was laid underwater in 1889, connecting Broome to Java and opening up communication with the rest of the world. The immaculate 22km of white sand with the Indian Ocean’s warm waters lapping at it, would bring peace to the most restless mind. Although these waters can be home to deadly jellyfish from October to May, so you so need to check the signage before swimming.
Cable Beach is also known for its “blood-red” sunsets, and that description is no exaggeration. This must be one of the few places in the world where the sky turns deep red at sundown. Every evening people gather to sit on the sand and watch the sun’s stellar performance.
Millionaires were among the first to come to Broome for holidays,allowing them to have a tropical getaway without leaving Australia, and the celebrities soon followed. Actor Orlando Bloom and Victoria’s Secret model Miranda Kerr, who married this week, are regulars and often jet in when they need a break. They were even said to be considering Broome for their honeymoon.
On their last trip they were reportedly met at the tiny airport by just one photographer. A far cry from what they’re used to. They usually stay at the Cable Beach Resort, where another famous Australian, television presenter Rove McManus, recently got married. Tom Cruise and Katie Holmes, as well as Baz Luhrmann have also been known to winter there.
One of the iconic things to do in Broome is to watch a movie under the stars. Sun Pictures is the world’s oldest open-air cinema in operation and has the Guinness Book ‘of Record inclusion to prove it. It opened in 1916 and locals are immensely proud of it. They show two movies a night, an early and a late showing, and if you’ve never watched a movie under a star-filled sky, you are in for a treat. Just make sure you bring mosquito repellent.
It’s under the flight path to Broome airport, so expect to get a scare as a giant jet roars right above your head half way through the movie.
The town of Broome itself doesn’t have a lot to offer, except a few restaurants, shops, a supermarket and some weekend markets selling local produce. Chinatown is quite underwhelming. For this reason most people choose to stay around Cable Beach and either rent a car or moped, or take the bus in and out of town. But the bus stops running at 7pm and a taxi back to Cable beach will cost around $15 (€10.30).
Broome is the perfect place to chill out and enjoy the cloudless sky, but if you get bored lying on the beach there’s plenty to keep you occupied. For bird-watchers, the Broome Bird Observatory is one of the best places in the country to spot some of the 310 species of migratory birds that flock to their shores. They will provide binoculars and telescopes and answer any questions you have.
If it’s your first time in Oz and if you’ve never seen a crocodile, head over to the Crocodile Farm for a chance to get up close to these reptilian brutes. They have feedings daily and you can even hold a small one, for that photo opportunity to show off to your friends back home.
Something that has become synonymous with Broome, as unlikely as it may seem, is the sunset camel ride along Cable Beach. Don’t ask how camels ended up in Broome but it’s become one of the most popular things to do here and much of the town’s advertising now clings to the image. You can take a camel ride at various times but going at sunset will get you the best snaps.
For a greater understanding of Broome’s history, visit the only pearl farm in the Kimberley region open to the public – Willie Creek Pearl Farm. The tours don’t come cheap – a four-hour trip to the farm, with pick up from your hotel, costs €62 for an adult but you will see the entire pearl-making process, from birth to showroom, and of course you can buy some pieces to take home for yourself.
You can also take a sail on Broome’s oldest pearl lugger which has been lovingly restored, and find out more about the saltwater cowboys who risked their lives diving for those illustrious pearls.
But two of the most magical experiences to be found in Broome are the monthly “Staircase to the Moon” phenomenon and the 130 million year old dinosaur footprints at Gantheaume Point.
The Staircase to the Moon happens between March and October for three nights a month, when the full moon coincides with an extremely low tide, creating a staircase of light over the exposed mudflats at Roebuck Bay. It’s a big event in Broome with markets and entertainment put on in its honour, so make sure that your trip coincides with it if you can.
At the Southern end of Cable Beach lies Gantheaume Point, where a deep red, rocky cliff face sits submerged in the blue waters of the Indian Ocean. But it is what’s underneath the ocean’s surface that draws people to this particular point. Down in the reef, underneath the fish happily chewing on coral, lie 130 million year old dinosaur footprints, incredibly preserved.
You can only see them from land at very low tides but casts of the footprints have been made and sit on top of the cliff, in case the tide is too high or you cannot see them.
When all that has worn you out, go down to Cable Beach and sit out on the deck of one of the five-star resorts, sip a chilled glass of Chenin Blanc, watch the famous sunset, and enjoy the feeling of being a million miles from home.
Go there
Getting to Broome
You can take an internal flight to Broome from many Australian airports: the easiest is to fly to Perth and connect from there.
When to go
The dry season runs from May to October. At other times many hotels and guest houses are shut and roads can be impassable due to heavy rains. While southern Australia goes into winter from June, temperatures in Broome stay between 20 and 30 degrees.
Where to stay
Cable Beach Resort, Cable Beach, 0061-89192-0400, cablebeachclub.com If it's good enough for Orlando and Miranda... Beachside luxury, with three restaurants and a spa complete with yoga deck. Accommodation ranges from studios to luxury suites, and villas come with butlers. Some rooms and one pool are adults only. Studios from €280 a night. Private villas from €800 a night (peak).
Cocos Beach Bungalows, Cable Beach, 0061-89194-1000, cocosbeachbungalows.com Popular with families. Self-contained resort with pool and barbecue area. Bungalows have two or three bedrooms, and have a kitchen, lounge, diningroom and veranda. Two-bed bungalow from €245 a night (peak).
Beaches of Broome, Cable Beach, 0061-89192-6665, beachesofbroome.com.au Promotes itself as budget accommodation but more akin to a hotel, with free breakfast, nice rooms, bar and pool. Doubles from €124, dorm beds from €22 (peak).
Where to eat
Som Thai,5 Napier Terrace, 0061-89192-6186. Award winning restaurant. Try the pearl meat, or tornado prawns, which look so much like art that you won't want to touch them.
Selene Brasserie,Pinctada Cable Beach Resort, 0061-89193-8304. Voted Western Australia's Best Hotel Restaurant in 2009. Mediterranean-influenced menu, with pearl meat as its speciality. Also has feasting menus.
Zeebar, Sanctuary Road, Cable Beach, 0061-89193-6511, zeebar.com. Funky bar and restaurant with live music and an emphasis on sharing food. Nice tapas, sharing plates and long wine list. Try the barramundi croquettes with aioli, spiced kangaroo skewers, or salt and pepper crocodile with mango relish.