GO DUBAI:Downturn or no, holidaymakers still flock to the capital of conspicuous consumption, writes ALANNA GALLAGHER
BLESS ME FATHER for I have sinned. In these hard times I have spent, and not quietly in a stealth wealth fashion. No Father, I went to Dubai for a blowout to consume conspicuously in a way that made me feel shallowly good inside.
Downturn or no downturn, the glittering metropolis of Dubai so favoured by the blingerati during the boom is back in vogue – with footballers and their wives.
When Wayne Rooney chose to escape the media spotlight where did he go? A private island in the Caribbean? No, to atone for his sins he chose a €19,466 (£17,000) mini-break at Dubai’s self-styled, seven-star Burj Al Arab hotel to butter up his wife Coleen. Because he’s worth it.
But don’t let that put you off. Dubai’s thrilling architecture, white sandy beaches and fine food and five-star service continues to tickle our fancy. And its modernity is now a backdrop to the next film in the Mission Impossible franchise. A city of superlatives it has the world’s tallest building, is home to one of the biggest shopping malls on earth and boasts the planet’s most luxurious hotel, the aforementioned Burj al Arab. But book a package – otherwise you’ll be paying Rooney rates.
The Middle Eastern metropolis stretches like a mirage along the Arabian Gulf. Its scale and expansion are such that public transport links haven’t kept up with the rate of growth. Everyone here travels by car, and thankfully cabs are cheap because this is a city that costs money to enjoy its offerings.
Its signature building, the Burj al Arab is to Dubai what the Eiffel Tower is to Paris. It is a symbol of the future and elegantly punctuates the day haze and lights up the night sky. Ronan Keating partly shot his music video for Iris on its helipad.
By comparison, Burj Khalifa, the world’s tallest building, lacks the same grace. But a visit to its viewing gallery, situated about halfway up the tower, helps put the city into context. Pictures of the location 10 years ago show sand and nothing else. Today you can still see gaps where in these uncertain times construction plans are now on hold, but the vista is still remarkably changed.
This modernity isn’t lost on film location scouts who’ve been using the city’s thrilling architecture as a backdrop to sci-fi films and thrillers. Syriana and Iron Man were both part-filmed in the so-called city of gold. And rumours abound that parts of Mission Impossible 4 will also be set here.
Dubai is like New York was in the 1920s, explains Irishwoman Catriona Ryan, a brand channel manager for Pernod Ricard at Dubai Duty Free. “It is the future. While everyone’s had a reality check and is more conscious of their spending, it remains a work hard, play hard city.” Expats make up 80 per cent of the city’s population. There is a seriously hedonistic side to the city that is fuelled by this enormous community. In addition to the hundreds of overdesigned bars and restaurants there are places such as Long’s in the basement of the Towers Rotana Hotel, where you see the shenanigans first-hand.
In contrast, the Emirati prefer the scene and be-seen atmosphere of the Emporio Armani Caffe in Mall of the Emirates. In terms of people watching, it is unparalleled. You can catch glimpses of the local women’s fashion habits; designer handbags slung nonchalantly over their black abayas and the red soles of their Louboutins flashing like baboons’ bottoms as they traverse the floor. The malls also offer attractions such as the crazy idea of an artificial ski slope at Mall of the Emirates and the ice rink at Dubai Mall, but this all knits into the city’s playground image.
Despite its modernity, Dubai is a city dominated by old world luxury concepts. The aesthetic is more Architectural Digest than Wallpaper, but Mr Armani’s first venture into the hotel business is changing this. And hot on his handmade heels is Palazzo Versace.
And while the shopping on offer is mall-orientated, the width of the range will make your bank manager swoon. Again, they provide a level of service and lack of snootiness that is alien to most Europeans. Even getting your credit card refused is a rather pleasant experience or so I’ve been told. And while the superbrands of Chanel, Hermes and Louis Vuitton are all well represented, there are some good mid-market labels worth investigating.
Aldolfo Dominguez is a great mid-price label for menswear, and the newly opened Bloomingdales has edgy and affordable new labels such as LA’s Aryn K – all of which will give you kudos back home.
The city boasts a number of satellite restaurants by world-renowned chefs, a roll call that lists everyone from Gordon Ramsay to Nobu Matsuhisa. The only local produce on menus is hammour, a grouper-like fish, as Dubai imports almost all its food and drink, which makes it expensive. That said, the calibre of the cooking everywhere is exceptional. Stay too long and you will succumb to the infamous “Dubai stone”, a very visible weight gain that is an undesirable souvenir of your stay.
Travel snobs complained Dubai had failed to understand the cultural aspect of a citybreak, but things are changing, albeit slowly. An up-and-coming area is Al Quoz, a low-rise industrial quarter with warehouses, garages and random art galleries. The Fridge is a contemporary dance theatre and theculturist.com offers insight into any interesting happenings.
To fully understand present-day Dubai, you need to explore the little past the city has. Dubai Fort is one of the oldest buildings in the country and illustrates the city’s pearl-fishing past. A short walk away is the city’s Grand Mosque, a multi-domed building with stained glass panels and sand-coloured walls. Entrance to the mosque is not possible for non-Muslims, but you can visit the minaret and take pictures of it from there.
THE WATERFRONT Bastakiya district in Bur Dubai is home to traditional wind-tower houses, precursors to the now omnipresent air conditioning. Built in the 1890s these belonged to wealthy Persian merchants but today house art cafes, galleries and guest houses in a distinctly Arabian architectural setting.
A water taxi or abra will transport you across to the Deira side of Dubai Creek, the old part of the city. The fare is one dirham (€0.20) – making it the best value experience in the capital. Here, the fragrant spice souk is an olfactory delight. Hessian sacks heaped with hibiscus and rose buds for tisanes, cloves, cardamom and curls of whole cinnamon, Frankincense from Oman, myrrh and chips of sandalwood perfume the air.
The nearby gold souk offers earrings the size of chandeliers, statement necklaces that compete with museum collars, all in 24-carat gold. Here you have to haggle and should aim to knock at least 20 per cent off the price quoted. Certificates are not issued with gem purchases, so caveat emptor. What you rarely see in the city is its underbelly. Occasionally, you catch glimpses of the workers, the men and women who keep the machine that is Dubai running. Not for them the luxury of air conditioning. Sitting on company buses being transported to and from their workplace, it is written all over their faces how hard life here can be.
As a destination Dubai is not cheap and despite the downturn remains pricey. So why go now? What you get for your money is incredible service. If resorts are your thing you’d easily rock out a week relaxing by the pool or seaside at any of the beachfront resorts. For the solvent, Dubai offers a great escape from the recession, a destination where you can hang up your hairshirt and revel in its conspicuous consumption in a way that would get you arrested at home.
* Alanna Gallagher flew to Dubai with Virgin Atlantic via London Heathrow and was a guest of the Dubai government’s department of tourism and commerce marketing
Where to stay, eat and go in Dubai
5 places to stay
1. Armani Hotel. Burj Khalifa tower, 00-971-4-888-3888, armanihotels.com. Dubai’s first boutique hotel is sleek and understated with curved-wall rooms that overlook a large fountain which performs on the half hour. Seven nights’ BB including flights from Heathrow and private car transfers, costs from €3,860 per adult sharing through elegantresorts.co.uk, 00-44-1244-897516.
2. Madinat Jumeirah Resort Mina A’Salam. Jumeirah Beach Road, 00-971-4-366-8888, jumeirah.com. This hotel’s private beach looks onto the city’s signature building, the Burj al Arab. Residents get free access to Wild Wadi Water Park, situated next door, a boon for families with kids. Doubles from €324.
3. Le Royal Meridien Beach Resort Spa. Jumeirah Beach Road, 00-971-4-399-5555, leroyalmeridien-dubai.com. Hotel with a beachfront setting and a mouthwatering choice of 14 restaurants, food from all of which can be delivered to you on your sun lounger. Doubles from €469.
4. Grosvenor House. Dubai Marina, 00-971-4-3998888, grosvenorhouse-dubai.com. Overlooking the marina, it offers sea and city views and is close to the city’s nightlife. Doubles from €413.
5. The Shangri-La. Sheikh Zayed Road, 00-971-4-343-8888 shangri-la.com. One of the locations used in the film Syriana, the Shangri-La’s downtown location is close to Dubai Mall and the Burj Kalifa. The hotel also offers serviced apartments. Doubles from €183.
5 places to eat
1. Reem al Bawadi. Jumerijah Beach Road, 00-917-4-394-7444, reemalbawadi.com. A menu offering authentic Middle Eastern fare and packed with locals tucking into its mezzeh, chicken kebabs, great humous, and tabouleh.
2. 360. Jumeirah Beach Road, 00-971-4-406-8744. An outdoor bar on its own pier that offers panoramic views of Dubai’s coastline, the Burj al Arab’s light show and the city’s vivid sunsets. A hedonistic playground on Friday nights.
3. Fortify yourself with strong coffee and snacks at Armani Lounge, which overlooks Dubai fountain, a water feature that performs on the half hour before climbing to the viewing platform of the world’s tallest building.
4. Rhodes Twenty10. Le Royal Meridien Beach Resort Spa, Jumeirah Beach Road, 00-971-4-399-5555, leroyalmeridien-dubai.com. Try the criminally expensive (about €73 for a 6oz fillet) wagyu steak at Gary Rhodes’ Dubai eatery. It is beyond delicious but you may have have to lie down afterwards.
5. Iranian Club. Oud Metha Road, 00-971-4-336-7700, iranclub.ae. Do brunch, the week’s big foodie get-together, with the locals at the Iranian Club where women are asked to don a headscarf, which will arm you with insight into how the Emerati live.
5 places to go
1. Smoke sheesha at Ikandy. One of the chic alfresco sheesha bars is at the Shangri-La. Try the apple, grape or cola flavours, which are especially popular with local lounge lizards (shangri-la.com).
2. Inhale the fragrant flavours at the spice souk. Wonder at the hessian sacks heaped with hibiscus, cloves, curls of whole cinnamon, while Frankincense, myrrh and chips of sandalwood perfume the air.
3. Take an abra across Dubai Creek. These diesel-engined craft offer a real slice of Emerati life and give you a view of the city from the water. There are three crossing points: Al Garhoud Bridge, Al Makthoum Bridge or Al Shindagha. The fare per person is one dirham (€0.20).
4. Take to the Gulf waters. You can’t come to Dubai and not pay your respects to the warm Gulf waters and the miles of soft powder-fine sand. See how the locals do downtime. Jumeirah Beach Park (Jumeirah Beach Road, 00-971-4-349-2555) has barbecue sites, food kiosks, volleyball areas and lifeguards on duty. Entrance is €1.
5. Get the view from above. Climb to the viewing platform of Burj Khalifa (burjkhalifa.ae), the world’s tallest building. Part of the tour includes a slide show that demonstrates what the city looked like 10 and 20 years ago. Adults, €21, children aged 4-12, €16, under 4s free.
Hot spot
Dubai nightlife thrives on the cheesy concept of Ladies’ Night. Clubs offer women free drinks, but in a city where everything costs an arm and a leg it comes as a welcome respite to your pocket. Want to see how the beautiful people go clubbing, then dress up and try to get into the city’s ultra clubs: 400, (the400nightclub.com), Armani Prive Club (burj-khalifa.eu/tag/armani prive-club) or the Cavalli Club (cavalliclubdubai.com), reputed to have cost €23 million. Wear your labels on your sleeve.
Shop spot
Fashion Avenue at Dubai Mall (thedubaimall.com) and the adjacent Souk Al Bahar will thrill shoppers, while the anti-shopping brigade can spend the afternoon in the indoor theme park Sega Republic (segarepublic.com), where an all-day Power Pass costs €29.
When to go
The ideal time to go is between November and April. Shopaholics should travel during Dubai’s shopping festival (dubaishopping festival.com), which takes place from mid-January to mid-February, a serious sale with designer goods reduced by 50 per cent. Travel light!