Galtymore, on the border of Co Tipperary and Co Limerick, rewards modest effort with magnificent views - and evokes romance, writes John G O'Dwyer
THIS IS SURELY the Irish mountain that most resonates with romantic associations. For well over half a century the landmark London dancehall bearing its name spawned innumerable romances and hundreds of lifelong partnerships.
Until it finally closed, earlier this year, the Galtymore, in Cricklewood, acted as a social club, home from home and gateway to romance for generations of Irish emigrants.
You are, of course, much less likely to find romance on the original Co Tipperary mountain, but what you will certainly come upon is a fine circuit over Ireland's highest inland summit with magnificent views as a reward for relatively modest investment of time and effort.
From your parking place (see panel) follow the laneway leading through two gates to a track on open mountainside. This is the Black Road, an old route previously used to draw turf from the mountain but now a convenient high-level entry point to the heart of the Galtees.
After about 20 minutes of gentle ascent you will observe a monument in the shape of an aircraft tail about 50m to your right. It was erected to the memory of four Abbeyshrule airmen who died in a crash on a nearby mountainside.
This event triggered the foundation, in 1977, of South Eastern Mountain Rescue Association, which provides a comprehensive rescue service across several ranges.
The going now steepens, and the Black Road swings right and then left before petering out in the shadow of Galtybeg Mountain. From this point head on to the lower slopes of Galtybeg, then swing left for the col with Galtymore.
Here the countless footfalls of the years have rendered the peat hag muddy and unpleasant, but the compensation is a splendid view over the renowned Glen of Aherlow and a more immediate vista into unusual, vat-like Lough Diheen, lying 200m beneath your feet and reputed to be the home of a serpent. If you decide to linger in the hope of a photo opportunity, however, you should prepare for a long wait. Local legend holds that the shy serpent in the murky depths surfaces but once in seven years.
When the inveterate traveller Robert Lloyd Praeger came this way he didn't encounter the serpent but did remark on the "savage grandeur" and lifeless gloom of Diheen. You may wish to reflect on the accuracy or otherwise of this observation as you now swing left and (carefully) ascend the cliffs towards Galtymore summit.
On reaching the top many people are surprised to discover that this is not exclusively a Co Tipperary mountain and that they have also reached the highest point of Co Limerick. Galtymore's two-county, twin-cairned top consists of a surprisingly flat plateau that is mostly cold and inhospitable. The altitude and inland location mean that in winter it regularly holds snow, and it is not uncommon to encounter, during one of our now ephemeral cold snaps, winter-sports enthusiasts tobogganing or snowboarding on the mountainside.
The summit bears an iron Celtic cross overlooking Aherlow and offers perhaps the most stunning view in the south of Ireland. Not only is it possible to see the Co Waterford coast and several nearby mountain ranges but also, on a day of perfect visibility, the view extends from the Wicklow Mountains in the east to the unmistakeable outline of Carrauntoohil, in Co Kerry.
To descend, first traverse Galtymore's west summit, then walk southwest across a plateau known as Dawson's Table. Next follow an expansive spur that descends roughly southeast without undue steepness to the confluence of two streams. Cross both and follow a well- defined track that initially skirts a wood but then strikes uphill across moorland to rejoin the Black Road about 400m beyond the previously encountered second gate. Now retrace your steps downhill to your parking place.
WhereLeave the M8 Portlaoise-Cork motorway at junction 11 and take the old N8 south towards Mitchelstown. Near a derelict house just north of Skeheenarinky village a finger sign for "Galtymore climb" points right to a minor road. Follow this road for three kilometres, right to its end. Park in the small car park.
TimeAllow three and a half hours.
Suitability Although the going never gets really tough, this is a challenging walk that reaches considerable altitude. Be well kitted with spare clothing and raingear. Return from the end of the Black Road if unsure of the direction. Use a map and compass and be aware that the route crosses trackless moorland where it is easy to become disorientated in mist.
MapOrdnance Survey Ireland Discovery Series sheet 74.
AccommodationAs befits a hotel in the former abode of the Earl of Glengall, Kilcoran Lodge (Cahir, 052-41288, www.kilcoranlodgehotel.com) offers olde-worlde charm in a sylvan setting. Beside the N8, it has food service all day, plus a leisure centre to soothe tired limbs. BB costs €65pps. Places to stay are also available through Cahir Tourist Office (Castle Street, 052-41453, www.cahirtourism.ie).