FRANCIS BRADLEYwas determined not to miss Kerry's glorious Gleninchaquin Park this time around
IT’S AMAZING how much we miss in our travels around the country. Gleninchaquin Park, at 700 hectares, is one such place. I have cycled and driven past the signpost on many occasions, and I can’t even remember seeing the sign. It might have registered at a subliminal level, and I may even have erroneously categorised it as just another park – an old country pile in south Co Kerry.
Recently, we were told that Gleninchaquin was a gem not to be missed. I took a look at the brochure – walking, fishing, a working farm, heritage site, waterfall, native forest, and it went on. Also, it was very convenient to our base in Kenmare.
The park nestles in the northern reaches of the Caha Mountains, just 20km from Kenmare, and the approach along a narrow road is impressive, passing first the Cloonee Loughs and then Lough Inchaquin, with Knockagarrane, Knockreagh and Cummeenanimma rearing up behind them.
And then the waterfall comes into view – 140m high and very impressive. The sun was breaking through ever-present rain clouds, and light was dancing off the saturated landscape, lending it a fantastic richness. Even though this was a rain- interrupted visit, the meadows retained their lushness of colour, and how incongruous they looked in this mountain landscape.
The Corkerys, owners of the park, have farmed here for five generations – more than 130 years – and there is evidence to suggest that, at one time, the area was heavily populated. But when you look at these meadows you get a sense of the work that was required to get them to their present state, and nature is always trying to take back what it has lost – so the work goes on.
Our walk started at the farmhouse, then continued below the waterfall to ascend a wide waymarked trail on the right-hand side. As you gain height the extraordinary beauty of the park opens around you.
After half a kilometre the trail splits, with the right-hand option leading you to Lough Cummeenadillure (which is worth the diversion). However, continuing along the left-hand option leads you to a metal bridge that crosses the river above the waterfall. The source of this river is Cummeenaloughaun; there is a four-hour circuit of this upper valley.
The longest walk in Gleninchaquin is a six-hour test around the perimeter of the property, which would be more suitable for properly equipped, experienced walkers.
Some distance beyond the bridge, the trail descends via a series of stone steps laboriously pulled into position and protected in places by a metal handrail.
The trail changes into a broad track heading in a northerly direction; eventually you reach a “switchback” where you can decide to head back to your car by the track or continue through a small gate in the fence ahead and finish the walk descending through a wooded area by a stream with a series of rock pools – a good place for a picnic in warmer weather.
This breathtaking valley is also suitable for day outings with the entire family. It has ample parking, picnic areas, tea rooms and an art gallery. There are six circular walking trails, and the park is a treasury for botanists.
The valley was once heavily forested, and Uragh Wood, on the southern shore of Lough Inchaquin, is an example of the original native oak forest, interspersed with birch, holly, hazel and mountain ash. In 2005 Donal Corkery commissioned two pieces of research with the aim of providing accurate information on the cultural and natural heritage of Gleninchaquin. You can see the information from the surveys under the heritage link on the website.
** Francis Bradley was a guest of Brook Lane Hotel in Kenmare, brooklanehotel.com.
Gleninchaquin, Co Kerry
Start and finishAt the farmhouse below the waterfall.
How to get thereFrom Kenmare follow the R571 west along the Beara Peninsula. After 12km turn left at a signpost for Gleninchaquin Park. Follow this narrow road for eight kilometres.
Admission€5 per adult, €3 students, young children free.
DistanceSix kilometres.
TimeBetween two and two and a half hours.
MapsOrdnance Survey Ireland Discovery Series sheets 84 and 85.
SuitabilityA moderate walk on a well-marked trail. Not suitable for the very young or those unsteady on their feet. Know how to read a map and use a compass. Dress appropriately, bring drinks and snacks – and dont litter.
Accommodation and refreshmentsKenmare for accommodation. The park has a tea room that is open for most of the year. Call064-6684235 or see gleninchaquin.com.
Lugnagun
In our Lugnagun walk, on December 19th, we suggested that walkers park at the entrance to Woodend Forest. This is private land. To avoid blocking access, please park on the public road, where your cars will not cause an obstruction.