Go Greece: YVONNE JUDGEended up on the Greek island of Paros pretty much by accident. Now she can't stop going back for the great beaches, friendly restaurants and laid-back atmosphere
IT WAS THE EARLY 1990s, and I had arrived in Naoussa, on the Greek island of Paros, pretty much by accident. I was sitting on the hot wooden deck of a caique, waiting to be ferried to a beach on the other side of the bay. The sun was glinting off the town’s sugar-cube houses, and the blue sea shimmered.
“Your first time here, yeah?” said a handsome German. He flicked his silky black hair. “You don’t just come here once. Naoussa’s like that. You’ll be back.” I smiled to myself. But he was right.
That first year I roomed cheaply in the village. My days were a simple heaven: getting a wide-bowed fishing boat across the bay, walking over rocks to sandy coves, roasting happily and swimming in the shallows, spotting fish and aquatic beasties. Then, at night, I and fellow singleton travellers would meet up at Linardo’s, a tiny whitewashed disco where the sea splashed in the window. Was anywhere ever more fun?
On trips back with friends we moved up to renting rooms from Anna “Cheese Pie”, who runs a popular bakery in the small main square.
We still love it – and have graduated to a boutique hotel. Imagine staying in Naoussa and having your own pool. Not that you would ever use it, because the local beaches are so great. Around Naoussa are Piperi, Agii Anargiri and the weird volcanic formations of Kolymbithres, voted one of the world’s best beaches by Condé Nast Traveller.
A few kilometres away is Santa Maria, a longer sandy stretch with good windsurfing and diving facilities. The beautiful church at Monastiri overlooks a clear cove where the Club 18-30 spirit has been diluted and locals are instead promoting environmentally friendly tourism. A little less bar surfing and a little more snorkelling.
That’s what Naoussa is all about: balance. If you want louder pubs and rowdier crowds, go to Parikia, the port of Paros. For an adult holiday, a fish-foodie paradise or a few nights in the coolest bars ever, go to Naoussa: the area around the whitewashed village, on the edge of a rocky horseshoe bay, has changed over the years, but the development has not got out of hand, nor above three storeys.
The first sight of the bay is mesmerising, the road hugging the water and tilting up to the white cubic outskirts. Traffic is light, with just a few local and rental cars and mopeds. Unlike places on some other islands, this is not a hornet’s nest of beeping, and bicycles are becoming more popular.
In fact, if you’re based in Naoussa just about everything is within strolling distance. Enjoy getting lost in the maze of lanes, looking for that jewellery shop or boutique. Eventually you’ll emerge into the small square of the tiny harbour, which is packed with tables for dinner from the surrounding kitchens. The smell of grilled seafood emerges from restaurants with names such as Silence of the Fish, Barbarossa and Ouzeri ton Naftikon.
If you fancy something more traditionally Greek, go back to the main street for tavernas that serve plenty of lamb, stuffed vine leaves and even the humble souvlaki. You will not find the words “egg” and “bacon” in the same sentence on any menu.
The original sea defences outside the harbour were built by the Venetians, leading to the somewhat corny description of the square as Little Venice. Still, they clearly had taste. One ouzeri – or Greek tapas bar – has 1950s photographs of line-hung squid adorning one of its walls.
These days you are more likely to taste squid stuffed with Gruyère, couscous and sun-dried tomatoes, all served by a long-aproned waiter. You could also have cheesy pastries dripping with honey, or juicy sun-dried mackerel. Metal-capped bottles of retsina are a blast from the past, as local organic wines are now everywhere.
Locals arrive late for their favourite tables, and at weekends trendy young Greeks gather family and friends for long seafood meals washed down with cloudy ouzo. Children eat the seafood with enthusiasm, and there isn’t a chip or a Turkey Twizzler in sight.
All this takes place beside small bobbing fishing boats, tied up for the night with the yachts, although these days Paros probably lands more rich young Athenians than it does sea bass.
Around the corner old seafront houses have been turned into summer bars, with nests of candlelit seating nudging the edge of the sea. On a windy night they’re a bit of a risk, as spray can find its way into your gin and tonic, but on a calm night the combination of the far lights of Mykonos and the water lapping at your feet is fairly hypnotic.
The local late-night bars have lovely style, with whitewashed-stone seats, colourful cushions, hurricane lanterns and, to keep you entertained, DJs from Athens. The overspill from the increasingly crowded neighbouring islands is finding its way to Paros in search of a relaxed, more sophisticated destination.
On top of all that, Parians are some of the most decent and friendly people imaginable, and Naoussa is so small that your waiter will suddenly be in the bar beside you, the woman from the shop is having a dance and it dawns on you that half of them are cousins.
Some of the Greek islands are overdeveloped and honky-tonk, but Paros, particularly in Naoussa, has avoided this. Perhaps this is because it lacks an international airport. All I know is that this little gem has struck a great balance. Winding lanes, fresh squid and a waiter who simply smiles and serves you the wine he knows you want. Those Venetians knew what they had. But watch out: you won’t just go once. You’ll be back.
Where to stay, where to eat and where to go if you're on the island
Go There
Aer Lingus (aerlingus.com) flies to Athens from Dublin between May and September. Aegean Air flies to Athens from London Stansted, which Ryanair serves from Dublin, Cork, Derry, Kerry, Knock, Shannon and Belfast, and which easyJet (easyjet.com) serves from Belfast. Olympic Airlines (olympicairlines.com) flies to Paros from Athens. Hellenic Seaways (hellenicseaways.gr) sails to Paros from Piraeus, in Athens.
Where to stay
Stelia Mare Hotel
Agii Anargiri, 00-30-22840-28888, steliamare.com. Boutique-style hotel by the beach with pool, comfortable studios and suites with great views. Very helpful staff. Buffet breakfast.
Lilly Residence
Agii Anargiri, 00-30-22840-51377, lillyresidence.gr. Boutique apartments and rooms with cool grey-painted wood on white walls. Small pool. Great views.
Kalypso Hotel Apartments
Agii Anargiri, 00-30-22840-51488, kalypso.gr. Cheaper than Stelia Mare, but owned by the same people. No pool, but a long rocky promenade on the sea.
Kanales Suites
Studios, Rooms
Piperi Beach, 00-30-22840-52044, paros-hotels.com/kanales. On an uninspiring beach at the entrance to the village. Pool, comfortable rooms, nice bar.
Manis Inn
Piperi Beach, 00-30-22840-51744, manisinn.gr. Studios and rooms with swimming pool. Just before village centre.
Anna Pension
Naoussa, 00-30-22840-51328. Simple, clean and inexpensive rooms, some with balconies and terrific views.
Where to eat
Sigi Ihthios(Silence of the Fish).
Venetian port, Naoussa, 00-30-22840-51225. A great name for fantastic food; fresh fish is pricey everywhere, so opt instead for grilled squid, shrimps or even lobster.
Barbarossa.
Venetian port, Naoussa, 00-30-22840-51391, barbarossa-paros.com. A pirate flag flutters overhead at the end of the pier; Barbarossa winds around the corner and nearly in through the front door of the tiny chapel. Try the squid stuffed with cheese and sun-dried tomatoes. Or try its sister meat restaurant, which serves Greek lamb specialities.
Ouzeri ton Naftikon
Naoussa, 00-30-22840-51662, tsaxpinisrestaurant-paros.gr. One of the most traditional seafood ouzeris, in the middle of the harbour square. Its simple Greek salad has evolved to include rocket, pine nuts, capers and all sorts. Very popular with Greeks.
Marios
Naoussa, 00-30-22840-51047, tsaxpinisrestaurant-paros.gr/mario-contact.htm. A more gourmet version of its sister restaurant (above). Don’t miss the cheesy honey pastries or gouna (sun-dried mackerel).
Yemeni
Naoussa old town, 00-30-22840-51445, yemeni.gr. A few lanes back from the seafront, this restaurant combines traditional and modern cooking, and serves both meat and seafood.
Dolce Vita
Naoussa old town, 00-30-6949-341661. New to the seafront this year, this small Sicilian trattoria serves superb home-made pasta.
Le Sud
Naoussa, 00-30-22840-51547. French Mediterranean food. The restaurant is to the rear of the lanes, beside the statue of the man’s head.
Where to go out
Naoussa has plenty of great bars, including the seafront Barbarossa, which is part of the restaurant group; Cafe del Mar, whose whitewashed coolness spills on to the seashore; Come Back, which, despite its unfortunate name, is a cool and friendly seafront bar; the Flaming Greek, which is worth at least one visit to see Greek’s young trendies lose it to bouzouki music; and Linardo’s, for all-night dancing.
Where else to go
Take a day trip to the neighbouring islands of Delos and Mykonos.
Visit the fishing village of Piso Livadi.
Head for Levkes, a mountain village in the middle of the island. Themarble from its quarry is said to have provided the stone for Michelangelo’s Pietà sculpture.
Go to Parikia’s outdoor Cine Rex (00-30-22840- 21676).