IT’S EASY to forget that in the midst of all of Paris’s tourist attractions stands evidence of the French capital’s Roman heritage. Sitting mostly unknown in the middle of the 5th arrondissement is a stunning example of Roman architecture, the Arènes de Lutèce.
Although you can find similar examples throughout France, the Arènes de Lutèce – Lutetia was the Roman name for Paris – is believed to be one of the largest of its kind ever built by the Romans. During its prime it could seat more than 15,000 people – nearly twice the population of Paris at the time. Built around AD 200, it had a large stage that allowed changes from theatrical productions to circuses and gladiatorial combat. Today you can see significant parts of the stage and its nine niches.
The Arènes de Lutèce fell into decay with the demise of Roman power. During medieval times most of the amphitheatre’s stonework was removed to be used in the city walls. By AD 500, Christians were burying their dead on the site, and the amphitheatre became completely filled in.
Thus the arena was lost for more than 1,000 years. It was rediscovered during the Haussmanian construction of Rue Monge in 1869. Although the site was scheduled for demolition, a group led by Victor Hugo saved the site. Restoration work was slow, but the Arènes de Lutèce reopened as a park at the end of the first World War.
Today the arena rests mostly undisturbed, save for when seating is erected for concerts in the summer. It’s well worth a visit.
- Arènes de Lutèce, 47 Rue Monge, Paris. Nearby Métro stops are Cardinal Lemoine (line 10), Jussieu (lines 7 and 10) and Place Monge (line 7)
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