Unable to resist a crisp walk in fresh snow, Francis Bradleyheads for the iconic Great Sugar Loaf, in Wicklow
WE AROSE RECENTLY to discover the hills around us were blanketed with snow. This is rare enough, as we live on the coast, and, even though we had a busy schedule that day, the attraction of a crisp walk in fresh snow was too strong to resist, so we dashed to Great Sugar Loaf, that iconic peak in Co Wicklow.
Ireland has several peaks named Sugar Loaf, and there are many more around the world. The only hint I have uncovered about the origin of its name is that a sugarloaf was a traditional form in which refined sugar was exported from the Caribbean and eastern Brazil from the 17th to 19th centuries. It was a tall, gently tapering cylinder with a conical top. These loaves were large – a metre high and about 35cm in diameter at the base – and weighed almost 15kg.
Sugarloaf Mountain in Rio de Janeiro got its name from the shape of the sugarloaf. So the five Sugar Loaf peaks I am aware of on this island have very exotic associations.
There are several approaches you can take on to Great Sugar Loaf, but because we had only a limited window of opportunity we chose the easiest and quickest.
Approaching from the N11, we took a minor road that runs up behind the Glenview Hotel, in Glen o’ the Downs. We were lucky the snow wasn’t compacted, otherwise we might not have made it up this steep road.
There used to be a small car park on the southern side of the Loaf, but this has been blocked off for many years for many reasons, including illegal dumping.
If there was any evidence of this heinous practice on this occasion, it was suitably cloaked under a blanket of snow.
The well-trodden path that leads all the way to the top stood out as a broad white highway. Snow makes the landscape seem fresh and clean, and it can be easier to identify landmarks. Powerscourt House, which looks straight at Great Sugar Loaf, was considered a large structure, but take note of its new neighbour, the Ritz-Carlton hotel – wow!
The clouds were quite low, but visibility was reasonable, with the occasional shaft of sunlight breaking through. Snow squalls rolled in, obliterating everything for five or six minutes at a time.
The track steepens over the final few metres, and you have to overcome a short gully before reaching the top. Because Great Sugar Loaf stands isolated from its bigger cousins, you gain a great sense of height, even though you are perched at only 501m.
There is also a fantastic 360- degree panorama, with Calary to the south, Djouce to the west, the Mournes to the north (on a clear day) and Snowdon, in Wales, to the east (if you squint or have good binoculars).
Return by the same route.
Great Sugar Loaf, Co Wicklow
Start and finishBlocked-off car park on the south side of the peak. Approach from the north: turn off the N11 at Kilmacanogue on to the Roundwood road (R755). After four kilometres turn left at the now-ruined Calary Filling Station. Continue for about 600m.
DistanceAbout two and a half kilometres.
TimeA leisurely hour and a quarter.
MapOrdnance Survey Ireland Discovery Series sheet 56.
SuitabilityFor all ages, although the descent on the short gully could be tricky for the very small or unsteady – be careful. Even though you don't need them here, know how to read a map and use a compass. Dress appropriately and don't litter.
RefreshmentsIn Kilmacanogue, the Glenview Hotel, Roundwood and Bray.