GO SEVILLE: In the heart of Andalucia, the city of Seville is home to fantastic food, fun and flamenco, writes DANIELLE MORAN
FEW THINGS ARE more satisfying than the early morning dunk of a light, crisp churro into molten chocolate. Like most of us, the idea of chocolate for breakfast sings to my inner child, but its gooey sweetness combined with the tasty crunch of the churro will also heal anyone who might feel a little delicate after a night mixing with the locals in the modern heart of Andalucia.
Navigating Seville’s winding alleyways will bring visitors to El 3 de Oro (Calle Santa Maria la Blanca), a small restaurant that squeezes in Spaniards for desayuno (breakfast). Pick up your fresh churros wrapped in paper from the stall outside the door, grab a table if you can, and mingle at the classic mahogany bar to give your order of fresh juice, chocolate caliente (hot chocolate) or coffee to a friendly but busy, starched-clean waiter. After unfurling your parcel of churros dig in among Spanish families before tackling the near 100 metres and 35 ramps of Seville’s Giralda for a bird’s-eye view of the town.
Once back on the ground in the cathedral’s orange-scented courtyard, a visit to the Plaza de Toros de la Maestranza might inspire visitors who are eager, or brave enough, to try the traditional rabo de toro, or bull’s tail stew for lunch.
If you’ve had enough of Spain’s most-loved creature, opt for Méson Cinco Jotas on (Calle Castelar) and give your order of solomillo Iberico in Pedro Ximenez wine at the bar. This acorn-fed pork tenderloin in sweet, sticky Pedro Ximenez comes in a generous portion suitable for two – just make sure to order some tortilla to soak up the juices. Although don’t knock the house patatas fritas (chips) – they work as a cheeky but tasty accompaniment.
With some energy to burn, it’s time to get lost in the winding streets of the Barrio de Santa Cruz before taking some time to become properly acquainted with Seville’s Museo del Baile Flamenco, or flamenco museum, on Calle Manuel Rojas Marcos.
Whether you’re putting on your dancing shoes for a class or happy to remain an observer in the impressive multimedia gallery upstairs, after a thorough but entertaining lesson in the arts of alegria or buleria, visitors should leave with an idea of what it means to have duende, or soul, in Andalucian culture.
And for those who want to take some of this soul to the colder Irish shores, stop by Extraverde (Plaza de Dona Elvira) to pick up the authentic bones of Andalucian cooking. Choose from a wide selection of extra virgin olive oil and Spanish wines or pick up some beauty kits packed with clean, simple shampoos and body milk. The quaint plaza also offers a chance to while away an afternoon with a glass of wine and a book, away from the hustle of the city’s streets. Don’t ignore the specials’ board, which features some classic Spanish tapas, not to mention the juicy olives that will, no doubt, find their way to your table.
Although Barcelona is famed for turning all-night partying into an endurance sport, Seville’s nightlife is not to be ignored. The evening starts relatively early here. At about 9pm bars hidden in the nooks of Seville’s Barrio de Santa Cruz start to come alive.
The key to the all-night fiesta is to embrace the idea of tapas – every drink served to the Spaniards comes with a small plate with simple, tasty flavours.
Restaurante Bodeguita Fabiola sits inside a deep, wooden archway on the short, quiet stretch of the Calle Fabiola and is the perfect place to start the festivities with a short glass of beer. The locals pack into this tiny bar so be prepared to squeeze in beside the bartender. Tapas start at about €2.50 per plate, but don’t shun the paper-thin slices of jamón Ibérico, which melt once they touch the tongue.
After a couple of beers, it’s time to head over to Triana, the home of Flamenco soleares, or deep songs, and a number of authentic flamenco clubs. However, it’s difficult to beat the secretive La Carboneria (Calle Leives) which, despite giving no outside impressions during the daylight hours, reveals two large bars and a nightly flamenco performance that can’t be resisted.
Sip on a glass of house wine and choose from the simple, tasty menu at the basic kitchen at the side of the flamenco stage for a truly authentic experience of Spanish passion: food, drink and flamenco.
And when the flamenco stops? Take yourself next door into the first cavern covered in old posters from flamenco festivals, and enjoy the intimacy of the powerful singers and Spanish guitar.
Entire families, from babies to grandmothers, are guests at La Carboneria each night. The benefits of being schooled in the art of duende are clear to see as the tourists file away long before the locals.