But for an invitation to visit, Francis Bradley might never have had the pleasure of walking in the Blue Stacks
Start and finish
Walk 1: About four kilometres north of Harvey’s Point Hotel.
Walk 2: Starts in the Eglish river valley and finishes at Harvey’s Point.
Distance Walk 1: Nine kilometres. Walk 2: Eight and a half kilometres.
Time Walk 1: Up to four hours. Walk 2: A leisurely three hours.
Maps Ordnance Survey Ireland Discovery Series
sheet 11.
Suitability
Walk 1: Heavy going at the start but okay when you gain some height. A reasonable level of fitness required. There are no defined trails, so having a guide is a real advantage.
Walk 2: For all ages. Know how to read a map and use a compass. Dress appropriately and bring along drinks and snacks – and don’t litter.
Accommodation We were guests of Harvey’s Point
Hotel (074-9722208,
www.harveyspoint.com).
THE BLUE STACKS. It’s not a name you’ll easily forget, but, as with the Cuilcaghs, the Dartry Mountains, Slieve Gamph and others, we know they’re out there, but where?
The Blue Stack Mountains are in south Co Donegal, just north of Donegal town, and but for an invitation from Harvey’s Point Hotel I probably wouldn’t have visited, always heading for their more famous cousins, Slieve League, Errigal and Muckish.
Harvey’s Point Hotel is on the picturesque shores of Lough Eske, which nestles in the lower reaches of the Blue Stacks. Harvey’s, in its wisdom, has included walking itineraries in its list of attractions, and I went there to sample what it had to offer. The hotel has produced a small guide with a series of walks from easy rambles to longer, more difficult treks. Packed lunches are supplied, and a guide is available if needed.
Our first walk, which was a variation on one of Harvey’s walks, started out from Edergole, where there is space for parking your car. We were being led by Pat Murphy from Harvey’s, who was also a member of the committee that opened the 120km Blue Stack Way in 2000. Besides being able to tap into Pat’s wealth of local knowledge, having a guide afforded us the luxury of not having to refer to the OS at every twist and turn.
Following the track for about a kilometre, we diverted off to the right to view Doonan waterfall before leaving the more popular route to Lough Belshade and taking a more direct line over boggy but manageable terrain. We made for the southeast corner of the lake, where there is evidence of a small hydroelectric scheme. According to legend, Lough Belshade – the Lake of the Mouth of Jewels – is guarded by a black cat, and although many have sought the treasure, it hasn’t been found – and the cat hasn’t made an appearance either.
The terrain around the lake displays the Stacks’ rocky nature, with one large buttress featuring climbs put up by the legendary Frank Winder in the 1950s including Byzantium (VS), which, I am told, holds its grade well. Up to this point, we had generally been following the route from Harvey’s book. Murphy had other ideas for the rest of the walk, however, and with our agreement we headed off around the northern shore of the lake and ascended a steep but short gorge.
With the sides of the gorge steepening as we rapidly gained height, there were good views back over the lake and countryside. Had we continued up the gorge, it would have required a rocky scramble to exit. Instead we escaped to the left and emerged on to an open rocky landscape. From here we could better appreciate the change in terrain – from the sucking, cloying bogginess of the approaches to the drier rocky upper areas – very reminiscent of the Maumturks and the Twelve Pins.
This was our high point, and Murphy brought us on an initially meandering descent through awkward landscape. His route kept us for the most part dry, and nobody could have navigated this section without years of experience in these hills. Our descent was rapid, and we arrived back at the car satisfied with having notched up our first little piece of the Blue Stacks.
The following day we headed out for our second walk, a much more gentle but no less enjoyable trek where Murphy brought us to the Eglish river valley on the western side of Banagher Hill. The route – entirely on a well-worn track, except for the final couple of kilometres, which are on roads – rises gently up the eastern side of the valley and then steepens for the last kilometre. Reaching a broad shoulder, our views north consisted of the cloud-covered unnamed Blue Stack tops and some buttresses – where Dawson Stelfox of Everest fame honed his climbing skills – and east and south-east to Lough Eske and the Donegal, Fermanagh and Leitrim countryside.
Continuing along the trail in a southerly direction we came to a metalled road where we turned right. If you happen to be here at the right time of the year, you will encounter a real treat along this road. On your left is Ardnamona Wood, which is renowned for its wonderful display of rhododendrons.
A couple of kilometres on the road brings you back to Harvey’s Point.
Go Outdoors is on page 8