ETHICAL TRAVELLER:IF YOU ARE booking a self-catering place in Ireland this summer, or are on the move for the bank-holiday weekend, it is worth getting on the road early to stop at a local farmers' market and stock up on supplies. It's a great way to start a break, getting to know many of the locals as well as the local fare.
If you are visiting Dublin, the market in Meeting House Square (Saturdays 9am-5pm and Wednesdays 11am-3pm) is a popular place to hang out and sample Irish chocolates, cheeses and sausages, to name but a few.
Other main ones are in Rosslare, Co Wexford (Fridays 9am-2pm), and, of course, Cork's English Market. Dating back to 1610, this daily covered market is a gourmet's heaven, particularly if you love fish.
West Cork is coming down with food providers, but the Saturday market in Skibbereen (10am-2pm, Old Market Square) has enough local fish, shellfish and other delicacies to get your holiday off to a scrumptious start.
If you are heading west, check out Galway farmers' market (Saturdays 9am-5pm and Sundays 2-6pm), beside
St Nicholas's church, or, if you are going through Limerick, stop at the Milk Market Building (Saturdays 7am-2pm).
Ireland has about 130 farmers' markets, and the list is always growing. See www.irelandmarkets.com or www.irishfarmersmarkets.ie. The latter specialises in organic markets. Subscribe to its online newsletter to hear about special events, such as the one-off market planned for the AIB Ladies Irish Open golf tournament, at Portmarnock in July.
Another good source of information is www.westernorganicnetwork.com, with a full list of markets from Manorhamilton to Mullingar.
The Slow Food movement ( www.slowfoodireland.com) is very active, organising food festivals around the country, such as the one tomorrow in Carrick-on-Suir, Co Tipperary, where from noon you can enjoy local produce at Lily Mai's Cafe, at Dove Hill.
Foodies keen to sample the goodies of the northwest should book their autumn weekend in Co Leitrim, for the Harvest Feast ( www.harvestfeast.ie) on September 13th and 14th. This is a huge event, with workshops, tastings, cookery demonstrations and all-round gastronomic gorgeousness.
If you are going farther afield this summer, try not to drive from the boat directly to the nearest hypermarket. Ask about the nearest markets and farm shops. In the UK try www.farmersmarkets.net; for Scotland, try also www.foodtourismscotland.com.
In France, I must admit, the first thing I want to do is hit the endless Carrefour aisles, to stock up with Cabernets, compotes and crisps (they always taste great over there). There is a place for this, of course, but by shopping locally you are thanking your hosts, many of whom depend on tourists to make a living. You will also have a lot more fun.
It takes a bit more courage to shop at the market, but pointing and learning a few basic phrases usually does the trick. Children love markets, and they will be much more thrilled to ask for un kilo de pommes from a farmer than traipse round the aisles of yet another supermarket.
One book worth seeking out if you're heading for the French northwest is Best Street Markets in France ( www.frenchstreetmarkets.co.uk).
There is also a growing trend in France for night markets, where you can buy the food, eat it and socialise all at the same time, with giant tables set out for villagers and visitors alike.
Now that's what I call a super market.