Westport: a cosy retreat in the Irish winter

Whatever the weather - not that there'll be many surprises at this time of year - the Co Mayo town has much to offer, says Brian…

Whatever the weather - not that there'll be many surprises at this time of year - the Co Mayo town has much to offer, says Brian Blake

NOW THAT WE'RE in what feels like the middle of winter, any dreams we might have of getting away from it all generally feature faraway destinations with plenty of sunshine.

On these dark evenings we tend to seek refuge in a warm house, ease ourselves into hibernation mode and wait out the months until something resembling spring arrives.

That being the case, we sometimes ignore what we have on our doorsteps - or at least within a few hours' drive - and fail to take advantage of some attractive holiday destinations.

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There is some great value to be had in Ireland - short getaways that won't break the bank in these straitened financial times and may just give us the boost we need to get us through the winter.

The key to enjoying breaks of this nature is to forget about the weather - if you're looking for guaranteed sunshine, Ireland is not the place to be at this time of year.

Just pack some warm clothes, waterproof gear and a couple of umbrellas, so that you can get out and about even if the weather is unpredictable.

It's also important to choose a destination that has plenty of indoor activities nearby, particularly if you are accompanied by children for whom the boredom threshold is never far away.

The picturesque town of Westport, in Co Mayo, is one location that has plenty to keep you entertained come rain, hail or shine - all three of which we experienced during our weekend there.

For indoor activities, there is a state-of-the-art four-screen cinema, a leisure centre with a swimming pool, and an array of shops in which to spend a few hours browsing.

When it comes to the great outdoors - weather permitting, of course - the possibilities are endless: hillwalking, horse- riding, fishing, boat trips and scenic drives.

At night you are spoiled for choice when deciding where to eat, whether you feel like a slap-up dinner in a restaurant or a less formal - and less expensive - meal in a pub.

Your evening out won't end there, either. The sound of chatter and music will draw you into one of the many bars for a nightcap or three on your way back to your lodgings.

We stayed at the Carlton Atlantic Coast Hotel, down by the quays, a comfortable 15-minute walk or €6 taxi ride from the town centre, depending on how energetic you're feeling.

In the morning, defying the inclement weather, we embarked on a walking tour of the town with local guide Brónach Joyce, whose knowledge of the history of the town is second to none.

She told us about the ambitious feat of engineering in which the River Carrowbeg was redirected when the town was being built, in the mid-1700s, to provide an attractive European-style tree-lined waterway at its centre.

There was also the story of the statue of St Patrick erected at the Octagon in 1990 to replace one of George Glendinning, an agent of the local landowner Lord Sligo, which was used for target practice by the Free State Army in 1923.

More recently, Westport was the proud winner of the Tidy Towns competition for the third time, and it's easy to see why - there isn't a scrap of litter to be found on the streets.

Later in the afternoon, with the rain still teeming down, we opted for a relaxing massage in the hotel's C Spa - followed by a sauna and a swim rather than the horse- riding or archery also on offer.

It turned out to be one of the best ways imaginable to spend a wet and windy afternoon, leaving us feeling that we could easily become addicted to this type of lifestyle.

It was just the tonic we needed for the night ahead: a delicious meal in the hotel's Blue Wave restaurant followed by a trip into town to check out the pubs.

Our first port of call - something of a must for first-time visitors to Westport — was the legendary Matt Molloy's, where we were treated to an impromptu session from some musicians sitting beside us.

By the end of the night (and some four or five pubs later) we were ready for the bracing walk back to our hotel, if only to salve our consciences for having such a pampered day.

The next morning it was time to check out and head home, sorry that our visit had been so short but in the knowledge that we will return - and soon.

www.destinationwestport.com. Brian Blake was a guest of

www.discoverireland.ie/ westport Where to stay, where to eat  and drink, and where to go

Where to stay

Carlton Atlantic Coast Hotel. The Quay, 098-29000, www.carltonatlanticcoast hotel.com. Four-star hotel in seaside location with leisure centre and spa.

Westport Plaza. Castlebar Street, 098-51166, www.westportplazahotel.com. In the centre of the town, offering spa treatments and a fully equipped leisure centre.

Westport Woods Hotel. Quay Road, 098-25811, www.westportwoods.com. Set in a woodland location, with a leisure centre and health-spa facilities.

Old Mill Hostel. James Street, 098-27045, www.oldmillhostel.com. Budget accommodation in a quiet courtyard, catering for singletons and families.

Where to eat

Blue Wave restaurant. Carlton Atlantic Coast Hotel, the Quay, 098-29000, www.carltonatlanticcoast hotel.com. Award-winning rooftop restaurant with views of Westport Harbour and Croagh Patrick.

Lemon Peel. The Octagon, 098-26929, www.lemonpeel.ie. Bistro-style dining with early-bird option in the centre of town. Look out for the nightly specials.

JJ O'Malleys. Bridge Street, 098-27307, www.jjomalleys.ie. Lively hostelry in centre of town with upstairs restaurant that opens in the evenings.

McCormack's Restaurant at the Andrew Stone Gallery. Bridge Street, 098-25619. Home-cooked food in cosy premises above Kate McCormack's butcher's shop. Closed evenings.

Where to drink

Matt Molloy's. Bridge Street, 098-26655, www.mattmolloy.com. Probably the most famous of the town's pubs, with traditional-music sessions on a regular basis.

J McGing's. High Street, 098-29743. One of the oldest pubs in the town, with genuine old-fashioned feel and a lively clientele.

McCarthy's. Quay Street, 098-27050. Friendly bar with beer garden and games room. Live music at weekends.

The Asgard. The Quay, 098-25319. Busy nautically-themed hostelry down by the harbour, featuring bar menu with an emphasis on seafood.

Where to go

Hillwalking. Numerous trails, ranging in length from an hour to a half-day. Call into the local tourist office, on James Street, for the comprehensive Westport Walks brochure.

Horse-riding. Equestrian centre at Westport Woods Hotel, Quay Road, 098-25811, www.westportwoods.com. Ideal way to combine sightseeing with an activity, catering for beginners and experienced riders.

Guided tours. Join local genealogist Brónach Joyce for a historical tour of the town. 098-25420, bronachjoyce@eircom.net.

Westport Leisure Park. Off James Street, 098-29160, www.westportleisure.com. 25m pool, fully-equipped gym, aerobics studio and health spa with sauna, jacuzzi and steam room.

Westport Cineplex. Off James Street, 098-24242, www.westport-cineplex.com. State-of-the-art four-screen cinema in centre of town.

Westport House. 098-27766, www.westport house.ie. Historic country house and gardens, with animal park and playground. Open March to October.